Bought a 2nd 100 - 2003, clean...completely lifeless

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I'm going to ask, as I think it is pertinent information for the OP and me down the line.... Will a 2uzfe from a tundra also work? I know they are VERY common but I also know there are slight differences ( con rods )

My understanding is Tundra, Sequoia, 4Runner 2UZ-FE's will all work. There are slight differences with some brackets, TB's, exhaust manifolds (?), etc. when it comes to install, but since I have this original LC engine I can just transfer any different parts. The rods are indeed different, tons of threads here and other Toyota forums on that. I am looking for a LC/LX470 specifically for this reason because I want to keep my options open for installing a second-hand SC in the future. If I wasn't keeping the SC option open I'd be fine with a Tundra (USA assembled) lump, because I gather from all I've read over the years that a Tundra 2UZFE in its original form is just as reliable as the Japan assembled motors of the LC/LX470.
 
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Are you positive the timing belt is still intact?
 
Timing belt looks good from view with driver's upper cover removed.

Motor is toast. It served admirably giving 285k. RIP
 
UPDATE: Motor swap complete!!

New motor started immediately and ran without issue today. I could only take it around the block a few times because it's completely illegal... See vid here https://sendvid.com/p47lvb7u In the vid the phone's microphone recorded the motor sound like it's a small block Chevy engine, but in fact it runs as quiet and smooth as a new hundy.

I found the motor locally in the week following purchase of the truck. It's out of a 2003 4Runner SR5 with 79,000 miles, documented by carfax and good service history from Toyota Owners site. Paid $1000 even, so real pleased. Probably put another grand into it with a reman OEM steering rack plus polyurethane bushings, new Denso A/C compressor, and various other OEM parts - idler and tensioner pulley's, serp belt, rad hoses, plugs, fuel/oil filters, O2 sensors, Toyota fluids, etc. No TB replacement, the timing belt had been done just before the 4R wrecked - still soft as new. I didn't de-tension to check the WP and TB idler bearings. No signs of water leakage from pump previously. Some perfectly clear, pink SLL coolant was still in the system, so that was encouraging. No sludge or negative findings during the bottom-end visual when the oil pan was removed/swapped. The Toyota FIPG seal worked great putting it all back together.

Transmission seems fine. During the drain before motor pull the fluid was as clear as light red wine; no smell. Absolutely no issues driving the few miles today, but obviously I need to get ready for inspection and take it down the road some more before final conclusions are made. At just under $4000 into this rig now I'm feeling pretty good. And the wrenching was pretty good too!
 
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Congrats! I wish I had seen this sooner, would have offered to help just for the opportunity to learn.
 
NIIIIICCCE
 
Congrats! I wish I had seen this sooner, would have offered to help just for the opportunity to learn.

Me too. Love to learn how you pulled and replanted that Engine cause who knows
what opportunities are out there.
Thanks for sharing what you have accomplished. If you have any photos, post them too.
 
Congrats, :D

It's loads of fun (therapeutic) when you can bring new life to something and you work on it yourself.

If you have pics of the process please post them up.
 
An engine is really only a 5 on a 1 to 10 scale to replace Read my posts I've done it a few times... it's an all day job for me working alone and slow... ANY 4.7 will work does NOT have to be 100 series I would Never consider rebuilding one when a 100k mile engine is less than 1K iF AFTER READING MY POST ON THE SUBJECT feel free to contact me I can walk you through it pretty quick even offer my # if you want to call when you are in the middle of it...
 
@ponytl, I may buy a totaled 01 LX for the hood and a few other parts, for my 01. The 02 LX only has ~100K on it and was Dealer service every 5K. My 01 has 215K, spotty service records, good compression with everything done on it. But I'm considering swapping to boost resale value of 01, and was wondering how difficult it would be to swap engine, transmission & transfer case in one shot. It would also save me from replacing DS exhaust manifold leak (while engine cold only). I suppose pulling hood, radiator and radiator upper support (which I'll be pulling support & hood of both anyway) would make easier to drop whole assemble in, in one short. My biggest issue will be room for engine hoist height, as I will need one in garage with typical low clearance.

Some question I'd like your expertise and the boards opinion on:
  1. Is it easier do with engine, transmission & transfer case in one shot or separated?
  2. Is removing Hood, Radiator & Radiator upper support normally done during a swap?
  3. Should I bother with swapping at all?
 
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I don't think you will boot resale with the swap, I've never swaped engine & trans I've only done the engine... which is a pretty simple deal ,
you do have to pull the radiator and the hood can stay on just remove the struts and tie the hood back to the roof rack way open... btw 215 is not high miles and people than know these trucks usually don't care about miles within reason for the year... I don't think you will gain much value for your swap jmho
 

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