I recently went back to stock wheels from aggressive aftermarket wheels, i'm missing the "poke out" look so i ordered a set of Bora spacers too. Went with 1.25" so i should get that wider stance back.
Bora wheel spacers and locktite (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter Mbchance
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What tires are you rolling with?
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- #24
275/70/18 Duratracs
Recommend them?
PO had 275/65/18 KO2’s newly installed when I picked up my LX. Haven’t used them in inclement weather yet but they ride good on the interstate.
I used loctite on my (non-bora) wheel spacers and it was a horrible idea. It was very difficult to remove the nut and felt like I was going to break the stud/strip the nut/stud. I spent a good hour that day cleaning off the old loctite material from the nuts.
Just torque to spec and leave it alone.
Just torque to spec and leave it alone.
If you already have that then I wouldn’t spend money on new tires. I ran KO2 my previous set but I wanted to be lighter and narrower so I picked this up. So far very happy
I've seen some people mention adding anti-seize to the mating surfaces. Is that necessary or is it enough to just clean the surfaces well before install?
Having some corrosion protection would help mating surfaces. Sounds counterintuitive but anti seize (aluminum type maybe not copper type) will contribute to stiction and make them harder to get separated. I'd use some very light smear of synthetic oil, synthetic grease, silaramic grease. The studs could use a little Blue locktite (243) but would not use Red locktite as that would be a biatch to remove trailside with out a heat source.
I would clean up your original hub really well so that the mating surface is perfectly flat, and i spray it down with a little fluid film so it doesn't stick together later when it come time to remove. After 1 winter with my LC i had no issues separating the spacer from the hub to do maintenance.
I just removed my wheels to check the torque after the 50 mile recommended distance. The wheels were a little hard to get off, I had to yank them on one side. I cleaned the hubs when installing the spacers but didn't think about the inside area of the wheel.
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- #31
I ran a brush inside the wheel when I was cleaning them up. It was still snug and took a little "yanking" to get off.
I did also apply some Blue Loctite 243. Piece of mind, although probably not needed. I just didn't want to have to mess with taking wheels off in order to check for re-torqueing.
Did you put yours on? Wondering how it turned out, looks wise.
Assuming you didn’t do loctite?
275/70/18 Duratracs
I'm curious as well... Is this with the spacers on? Looks good nonetheless
Would it be beneficial to just use blue loctite on two of the studs (cross studs) per wheel? At least then, you have piece of mind knowing it wouldn't come off and would be 8 lugs vs 20 with loctite... Just in case it was hard to break the seal.
Do the Bora Spacers have the hub ring notches like the Spidertrax ones? With the 1.25" spacers, do you still have to grind down the studs?
Yes, the spacers designed for the front of the 100 series have notches and no, you won’t need to grind your studs with a 1.25” spacer. I went with a 1” spacer and still didn’t have to modify the studs.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
FWIW, just had to remove 2 of the 4 SpiderTrax spacers on 5thGen T4R. Had installed w/ red LocTite (just a bit) per their instructions/kit, and the 85lb torque. Cheater bar to break the hold, and then battery powered impact to remove. Note: no heat, but on some nuts the effort to remove was too high, and I took the impact out of Reverse, retightened nuts, and then reversed again. Came off fine then. No breakage, no heat used. YMMV
i never used loctite. just torqd to spec
