bolts holding the diff carrier / third member: easily replaceable? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter e9999
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
They are studs, yes you can just remove and replace.
I replaced mine when I regeared/added lockers. Go get yourself a set of these...
OTC 6987 4-Pc Metric Stud Remover Set - ToolKing.com
and its a piece of cake.
It also makes it much easier to clean off the mating surfaces before you put it back together.
OTC 6987 4-Pc Metric Stud Remover Set - ToolKing.com
and its a piece of cake.
It also makes it much easier to clean off the mating surfaces before you put it back together.
- Thread starter
- #5
how do these things work?
can't you just use a couple of nuts?
It'd be nice if you can get a Torx or hex stud or something equivalent
- Thread starter
- #7
that sounds pretty destructive. Could also use one of those bolt-outs for that, if small enough.
Cruiser804
SILVER Star
When I retro'd my rear factory locker I had to replace a handful of these. It was no problem. I even had to do two with the diff partially installed. I used the two nut method. I was a PITA but it did the trick.
However, I bought the OTC kit for doing the front. I have not used it yet.
However, I bought the OTC kit for doing the front. I have not used it yet.
Straight forward if you don't have rust issues. Use 2 nuts, a spanner to break, then a gear wrench to spin them out. Front is 12mm, Rear is 14mm.
-B-
you can upgrade the fronts to rear size by drilling and tapping while out, and getting rear studs and nuts, and drilling the carrier.
The studs in 10mm are different part No, but same stud as 10mm axle studs on 105 cruisers.
The studs in 10mm are different part No, but same stud as 10mm axle studs on 105 cruisers.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Why are you replacing them? The lower ones sometimes get booggered up on rock, but they hold up pretty well.
The easiest way to get them out is destructive. Unscrew the nut to the end of the stud, weld the nut to the stud and back it out with an impact. It's very quick. Replacing the studs is much easier with the diff out. I don't know that I'd try it with the diff in place.
That is a very good idea. Is it possible to drill and tap in place, or do you have to pull the axle out from under the truck?
The easiest way to get them out is destructive. Unscrew the nut to the end of the stud, weld the nut to the stud and back it out with an impact. It's very quick. Replacing the studs is much easier with the diff out. I don't know that I'd try it with the diff in place.
That is a very good idea. Is it possible to drill and tap in place, or do you have to pull the axle out from under the truck?
you can also screw 2 nuts on the bottom ones prone to damage, to protect the thread.
- Thread starter
- #13
that's a very good idea, too. Wish I had read that earlier... :whoops:
It looks like socket and you slip it over the stud and turn it with a ratchet, it does have internal finger that grasps in either direction.
Yes as several people pointed out you can use two bolts but these tools remove and install studs with no damage and without any fuss.
I have used mine to pull broken studs with damaged threads that made the two-bolt system impossible
I have to disagree ... the easiest way is with the right tool
and no destruction is involved.
Last edited:
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
You really shouldn't need to be taking them in and out often. Unless they're damaged there's no reason to even dink with them.
