so if post more to get to 120 so the kit will be done sooner??
Bolt on turbo kit (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter scottryana
- Start date
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so if post more to get to 120 so the kit will be done sooner??
That's my understanding of it.
This is my small, yet very meaningful contribution.
This is my small, yet very meaningful contribution.
Ok since it took me like 2 days to read all these pages between work and trying to sleep, let me see if I got everything. I’m sure most of this was answered but with so many pages it would be nice to have a summary this far in (correct me if I’m wrong and I’ll edit, or will even delete my post if I seem to be beating a dead horse):
1- kit will for sure come with a quality ball bearing turbo, and name brand BOV. No “no-name” Chinese parts
2- Will the exhaust manifold be ceramic coated to differ heat from our already hot engine bays? (Will this be an option or up to the buyer to source on his/her own?)
3- 100% will not come with A/A IC but possibly an A/W
4- Cost will be comparable to what the magnusun S/C used to cost when in production (Is within $750-$1000 possible?)
5- Multiple kits will be available, but the basic kit will be bolt on and running 6-9 psi to avoid a can of worms as far as other mods go
6- Retain factory exhaust from manifold back
7- @Tedward officially made the start of the 93rd page on mobile
1- kit will for sure come with a quality ball bearing turbo, and name brand BOV. No “no-name” Chinese parts
2- Will the exhaust manifold be ceramic coated to differ heat from our already hot engine bays? (Will this be an option or up to the buyer to source on his/her own?)
3- 100% will not come with A/A IC but possibly an A/W
4- Cost will be comparable to what the magnusun S/C used to cost when in production (Is within $750-$1000 possible?)
5- Multiple kits will be available, but the basic kit will be bolt on and running 6-9 psi to avoid a can of worms as far as other mods go
6- Retain factory exhaust from manifold back
7- @Tedward officially made the start of the 93rd page on mobile
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Ok since it took me like 2 days to read all these pages between work and trying to sleep, let me see if I got everything. I’m sure most of this was answered but with so many pages it would be nice to have a summary this far in (correct me if I’m wrong and I’ll edit, or will even delete my post if I seem to be beating a dead horse):
1- kit will for sure come with a quality ball bearing turbo, and name brand BOV. No “no-name” Chinese parts
2- Will the exhaust manifold be ceramic coated to differ heat from our already hot engine bays? (Will this be an option or up to the buyer to source on his/her own?)
3- 100% will not come with A/A IC but possibly an A/W
4- Cost will be comparable to what the magnusun S/C used to cost when in production (Is within $750-$1000 possible?)
5- Multiple kits will be available, but the basic kit will be bolt on and running 6-9 psi to avoid a can of worms as far as other mods go
6- Retain factory exhaust from manifold back
7- @Tedward officially made the start of the 93rd page on mobile
Been answered a few times...
1. BorgWarner turbo, there is NO option B
2. The exhaust manifold is totally up to the user. The J-Pipe is still in debate.
3. 100% will NOT come with any Intercooler. But I may be making an A/W if anything as an option.
4. $4500 is my target still
5. NO ONLY ONE KIT! Yes bolt on, no it'll be 5-6psi tops because of worms
6. No, the Y-pipe will need to be removed and replaced with a simple flex joint/flange
7. That one is accurate
^accurate as of 10/4/2018 9:19pm PST -Joey
Wish I didn’t live across the country, would love to be some type of assistance on this project. Kudos on all the hard work so far
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Meh, I'm always waiting on other vendors so it would just be a waiting game.
Sounds good to me!! TTT
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Ok a little bit of an update. I just got back from the J-Pipe manufacturer again after a few false starts and 4 changes. Unfortunately I had to leave for a doctor's appt that I couldn't miss but my first article will be ready later today. I will pick it up on Monday. I had a few changes to make in between the entire build out because they made a few changes I didn't like and then there were others we mutually agreed on. Initially the plan was to make the J-pipe collector further down from the T-4 flange but it proved to be pretty difficult AND since this was a single scroll turbo and not a single scroll, the collector really just needed to be somewhere before or at the T-4. So the design changed. Then I was going to have a balance bar before the T-4 for the wastegate but again, since this is a single scroll turbo it wasn't totally necessary and it could just be off one of the supply pipes pre-collector. Had this been a dual-scroll I would have changed the design.
The last change I made last week was to the Toyota exhaust flanges going to the exhaust manifold. The OEM setup had the pipe projecting past the flange and then domed slightly. Turns out this was for positioning the gasket and for centering the manifold to the Y-pipe. Initially they didn't include it because they didn't see it as necessary and because the pipe does go straight through the flange. Making it work would have meant redoing all the flanges with a slanted ID. Not worth it. I didn't like that. I wanted the pipe sticking out to give the same assembly aid. So they are cutting a 1/2" piece of tubing and tack welding it in place. Works for me. I also ordered the wrong number of Tial wastegate flanges so they can't finish them til I get the rest ordered. Doing that now.
On Monday I'll take some better pictures without the jig in place and then probably head over to SEMA Garage.
The last change I made last week was to the Toyota exhaust flanges going to the exhaust manifold. The OEM setup had the pipe projecting past the flange and then domed slightly. Turns out this was for positioning the gasket and for centering the manifold to the Y-pipe. Initially they didn't include it because they didn't see it as necessary and because the pipe does go straight through the flange. Making it work would have meant redoing all the flanges with a slanted ID. Not worth it. I didn't like that. I wanted the pipe sticking out to give the same assembly aid. So they are cutting a 1/2" piece of tubing and tack welding it in place. Works for me. I also ordered the wrong number of Tial wastegate flanges so they can't finish them til I get the rest ordered. Doing that now.
On Monday I'll take some better pictures without the jig in place and then probably head over to SEMA Garage.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Flanges
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Oh I have to figure out what I’m going to do about the MAF. I was thinking about machining into the tube but it’s so ungodly expensive so I may just go this route instead. TBD.
- Thread starter
- #1,851
Looks great! So one other thing those flanges do is I think they prevent gasket blow out not usually an issue but kind of nice.
As for the MAF flange I think it would be silly to have it machined into the tube you would have to have a fairly large section of tube to start and machine a lot away. I used an almost identical weld-on flange when I did mine the first time and it worked very well.
As for the MAF flange I think it would be silly to have it machined into the tube you would have to have a fairly large section of tube to start and machine a lot away. I used an almost identical weld-on flange when I did mine the first time and it worked very well.
Thoughts on aftermarket valves to complement the turbo? I'm planning on a cylinder head overhaul as I approach 200k and I figured this would be a perfect time to upgrade parts. Also, I have serious oil consumption issues and want everything nearly perfect before installing the turbo. I realize this kit will be bolt on, but is the perceived benefit worth the cost? Estimate with me delivering the cylinder head to the shop:
BC3359
Brian Crower Toyota 1FZFE 33mm Exhaust
Valves
1 221.71 221.71T
BC3358
Brian Crower Toyota 1FZFE 39mm Intake
Valves
1 221.71 221.71T
ECM-0004
ECM-0004-Engine Disassembly / tear down,
inspect, and hot tank 24 valve cylinder head
1 95.00 95.00T
ECM-0002
ECM-0002-Machine Shop Labor / performance
valve job and CNC deck surface 24 valve inline
6
2.50 95.00 237.50T
ECM-0002
ECM-0002-Machine Shop Labor / CNC surface
cylinder head inline 6
1 95.00 95.00T
ECM-0002
ECM-0002-Machine Shop Labor / set valve
lash, and assembly - 24 buckets
2 95.00 190.00T
BC3359
Brian Crower Toyota 1FZFE 33mm Exhaust
Valves
1 221.71 221.71T
BC3358
Brian Crower Toyota 1FZFE 39mm Intake
Valves
1 221.71 221.71T
ECM-0004
ECM-0004-Engine Disassembly / tear down,
inspect, and hot tank 24 valve cylinder head
1 95.00 95.00T
ECM-0002
ECM-0002-Machine Shop Labor / performance
valve job and CNC deck surface 24 valve inline
6
2.50 95.00 237.50T
ECM-0002
ECM-0002-Machine Shop Labor / CNC surface
cylinder head inline 6
1 95.00 95.00T
ECM-0002
ECM-0002-Machine Shop Labor / set valve
lash, and assembly - 24 buckets
2 95.00 190.00T
NLXTACY
Wits' End
All looks fine to me. I spent the time to port match the gaskets. I have no idea if it helps overall but I’m glad I did it although it was long and tedious.
- Thread starter
- #1,856
Only thing you have to remember is changes to air flow and you start putting yourself in untested waters.
Boost is a measure of restriction. Without restriction you can not have positive pressure. So when you start doing things like larger valves, opening ports, etc. You start to remove restriction. You are probably saying to yourself yes and that is great.... But if 6psi on a stock setup is something like 330cf/min and on your engine 6psi is 380cf/min, will the computer keep up? Will the injectors keep up? What voltage will the MAF read? When will you crossed over into closed loop? Etc. These are all reasons I keep saying if you want a supported turbo you need to keep things mostly stock.
If you just want the hard parts and are willing to mess with tuning, fueling etc, I say go for it!
Boost is a measure of restriction. Without restriction you can not have positive pressure. So when you start doing things like larger valves, opening ports, etc. You start to remove restriction. You are probably saying to yourself yes and that is great.... But if 6psi on a stock setup is something like 330cf/min and on your engine 6psi is 380cf/min, will the computer keep up? Will the injectors keep up? What voltage will the MAF read? When will you crossed over into closed loop? Etc. These are all reasons I keep saying if you want a supported turbo you need to keep things mostly stock.
If you just want the hard parts and are willing to mess with tuning, fueling etc, I say go for it!
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
No promises yet but I’m trying to work it out with 2” gauges but if possibly this would be sooo much easier with 1.5” gauges.
Here is the switch mount that goes into the ashtray slot:
But here is the gauge mount with switches that I’m trying to make work:
Here is the switch mount that goes into the ashtray slot:
But here is the gauge mount with switches that I’m trying to make work:
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Aaaaaand the gauge mount is a huge fail 
But now I have another idea.
But now I have another idea.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Roadblock removed!
This is going to be test fit on the engine stand motor and verified for clearances but should be good to go...I hope. I will be doing the hospital thing tomorrow and may or may not be mobile to progress this much further this week. But PLENTY is planned over the coming weeks.
This is going to be test fit on the engine stand motor and verified for clearances but should be good to go...I hope. I will be doing the hospital thing tomorrow and may or may not be mobile to progress this much further this week. But PLENTY is planned over the coming weeks.
Good luck today brother.
I’ll be thinking about you amigo.
I’ll be thinking about you amigo.
