NLXTACY
Wits' End
I considered developing an LS kit. But too many variables and it still required a ton of development. Bolt on wasn’t an option.
Bolt on turbo kit (10 Viewers)
- Thread starter scottryana
- Start date
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I considered developing an LS kit. But too many variables and it still required a ton of development. Bolt on wasn’t an option.
I would like to shed the weight of the tractor motor, also i am very familiar with ls’. Just hated the idea of trying out how cruise and all the other little things like gauges and such to work. Bolting it all in is easy, one bannana. Getting everything else to work trouble free for 100k+ miles is another. These things do need more power, especially to keep up with more modern vehicles that have more gears and more power.
A supercharger is normally how i would go, but it seems thst is out. They may be less efficient but tighter/lighter packaging and with the extra heat from the hot side. However, turbos are cooler and if intercooled(a/a,a/w or meth) it is superior if built correctly.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
I’ve often thought you should maybe get into some cruiser LS swap stuff. Other than Marks it’s untapped. There are a lot of variables, and most people doing projects like that are capable of fabbing whatever they need, but there are so many little things that you could develop that any swapper would buy if it were available. IMO, tons.
Don’t know you personally, but I think if you played around with any LS/vortec stuff you’d be hooked. So much cross compatibility between all the motors, even generations.
When the turbo developments done you ought to throw one in the test mule LC you have
Sorry to get off topic.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I’ve often thought you should maybe get into some cruiser LS swap stuff. Other than Marks it’s untapped. There are a lot of variables, and most people doing projects like that are capable of fabbing whatever they need, but there are so many little things that you could develop that any swapper would buy if it were available. IMO, tons.
Don’t know you personally, but I think if you played around with any LS/vortec stuff you’d be hooked. So much cross compatibility between all the motors, even generations.
When the turbo developments done you ought to throw one in the test mule LC you have
Sorry to get off topic.
Its been on my mind.
- Thread starter
- #1,405
I think that the weight of the 1FZ is greatly exaggerated. The weight is listed as 585lbs and an iron block 6.0 LS is 535lbs.
And the aluminum 6.2 is 150lb less.
- Thread starter
- #1,407
LS1 Aluminum weights 100lbs less than Iron block LQ4.
If you can notice 100lbs difference in your truck, I am buying the beer.
If you can notice 100lbs difference in your truck, I am buying the beer.
In front of the axle, sure.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
100 lbs is almost a Deka AGM aux battery. I’d have zero clue if it was there or not.
See, i have a hard time believing that. The ls is compact, the 1fz is quite the opposite. I was told(yeah, told, no experience) 900 complete vs 600.
I’ve often thought you should maybe get into some cruiser LS swap stuff. Other than Marks it’s untapped. There are a lot of variables, and most people doing projects like that are capable of fabbing whatever they need, but there are so many little things that you could develop that any swapper would buy if it were available. IMO, tons.
Don’t know you personally, but I think if you played around with any LS/vortec stuff you’d be hooked. So much cross compatibility between all the motors, even generations.
When the turbo developments done you ought to throw one in the test mule LC you have
Sorry to get off topic.
Totally agree, LS motors are pretty bullet proof too! Plenty of old Chevys with 250-300k on CL.
I was so gungho on the LS until this thread. I've leaned a bunch about the "tractor motor" and I think it's an awesome machine. Just needs some boost.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
The BSPT mark of shame.
I wanted a physical mark denoting with thread is the BSPT. The one on the left has nothing so it’s NPT. The one of the right has a little notch to place a British tea spoon while eating a scrumpet.
I wanted a physical mark denoting with thread is the BSPT. The one on the left has nothing so it’s NPT. The one of the right has a little notch to place a British tea spoon while eating a scrumpet.
yoda-g3
SILVER Star
I'm sorry if this was buried in here somewhere, I've been trying to stay on top of it.
What style manifold are you guys aiming for? Mount on top similar to the Treadstone, or underneath, similar to the Safari?
My Safari manifold isn't holding up well after some repairs in 2012.... but the Turbo is healthy (freshly rebuilt at that point). If your manifold is "bottom mount" with a T3 flange, I may cheaply band aid it for now, and go this route when they ship and modify the exhaust / intake routing to make it work as I imagine it would be slightly different.
I'm already on the fence of just doing that now with the Treadstone vs paying $500 for another 6 year weld job, but I have a feeling going to top mount will be a huge paint trying to reroute everything.... so I'm weighing options.
Ideally jumping ship to a more "future supported path" makes sense. I'm kind of burnt out scouring for solutions to Safari woes, and the manifold is the last weak link in the chain.
What style manifold are you guys aiming for? Mount on top similar to the Treadstone, or underneath, similar to the Safari?
My Safari manifold isn't holding up well after some repairs in 2012.... but the Turbo is healthy (freshly rebuilt at that point). If your manifold is "bottom mount" with a T3 flange, I may cheaply band aid it for now, and go this route when they ship and modify the exhaust / intake routing to make it work as I imagine it would be slightly different.
I'm already on the fence of just doing that now with the Treadstone vs paying $500 for another 6 year weld job, but I have a feeling going to top mount will be a huge paint trying to reroute everything.... so I'm weighing options.
Ideally jumping ship to a more "future supported path" makes sense. I'm kind of burnt out scouring for solutions to Safari woes, and the manifold is the last weak link in the chain.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #1,416
It is going to be a J-pipe from the stock manifolds. It would be considered a top mount. The bottom mounts like the AXT have issues with turbos hitting the frame rail. Might be why Safari has a custom exhaust housing.
Tough decision on your hands. I know what it is like to have old systems that you paid quite a bit of money for but are no longer supported.
Tough decision on your hands. I know what it is like to have old systems that you paid quite a bit of money for but are no longer supported.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
The battery box is fine and planned for. What I am NOT 100% sure on is the washer relocation kit. I don't use that myself since I went JDM Corolla washer bottle kit in the DS fender. One of the things that MIGHT happen is the air cleaner being moved back towards the firewall about one inch. I'll of course be making the bracket to allow that to happen but not 100% sure it will be needed.
duggy
SILVER Star
I have a spare Slee kit I can send you if needed for testing
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Thanks. Yeah if you don't need it back anytime soon that would help.
yoda-g3
SILVER Star
Thanks! That is really helpful. I think I can get a Turbo-Glide manifold that is a direct replacement that is also "beefier" than the Safari. I was hoping this kit would be similar enough to not require a complete redesign, but it sounds like I might be better off to just get the manifold and make a few tweaks. I'll start up another thread with my issues so that this doesn't get too off topic.
