FastCarGuy
SILVER Star
Bolt on turbo kit (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter scottryana
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
AussieHJCruza
Supporting Vendor
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2013
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 2,960
- Location
- New South Wales, Australia
- Website
- www.completecruisers.com.au
I can't see anything about that either but they seem to be Oz oriented and it probably isn't really required here.I looked on their site, but it doesn't say if it is OBII compatible...
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Well, other than the fires obliterating everything West and South of me, I did get a little bit of good news: the turbo blankets showed up today.
Looks great.
CA is having a really tough year. Prez comments don't help. My daughter is in Sacramento; lots of smoke there.
After shooting the i-17 loaded for a weeks worth of camping and getting passed by minivans loaded with fat asses, semi trucks loaded down and an old lady in a geo metro, i think i need to consider this a lot more. 4.88’s on 35’s are not cutting it. Not sure 5.29’s would either. Truck struggled to do 60 on the steep grades and not much better on the mild grades. Maybe its not running great, but i feel like its running good, but not good enough.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Sheesh. Lot of pieces needed just to put together a downpipe. These are the pieces I’ll be using to build the prototype and jig. The production will look a lot better and will of course be stainless 
The idea is the downpipe will be one piece and damn near bolt on. The only thing not bolt on with the entire build is the need to cut the Y-pipe and weld in a new flange.
The idea is the downpipe will be one piece and damn near bolt on. The only thing not bolt on with the entire build is the need to cut the Y-pipe and weld in a new flange.
FastCarGuy
SILVER Star
Sheesh. Lot of pieces needed just to put together a downpipe. These are the pieces I’ll be using to build the prototype and jig. The production will look a lot better and will of course be stainless
The idea is the downpipe will be one piece and damn near bolt on. The only thing not bolt on with the entire build is the need to cut the Y-pipe and weld in a new flange.
That is awesome! getting that even close was a major PIA and still wound up driving it at very low RPM (due to noise) to a muffler shop to get it right
The idea is the downpipe will be one piece and damn near bolt on. The only thing not bolt on with the entire build is the need to cut the Y-pipe and weld in a new flange.
That is awesome! getting that even close was a major PIA and still wound up driving it at very low RPM (due to noise) to a muffler shop to get it right
jjdeneen918
SILVER Star
So stainless doesn’t need powder coating, or just not very necessary?
That flexy bendy straw End, will that flex & crack the powder coat if I choose that direction?
That flexy bendy straw End, will that flex & crack the powder coat if I choose that direction?
Stainless is pretty corrosion resilient. You wouldn't really want to powdercoat exhaust components. Unless you meant ceramic coating, which could be beneficial from a resilience and performance aspect. As for the flexi joint most exhausts I've seen have it masked off when ceramic coated. There is high temp powdercoat but it doesn't create the thermal barrier ceramic coating does.
I'll be honest, I am disappointed by this development. In the end, the only real reason I abandoned my turbo project was the half-assed downpipe. I sold this kit to the wife as "everything will bolt together, I will not need to weld a single thing." I was honestly expecting something that bolts to the second cat. And when I heard this thing was going the way of CARB, I kind of assumed the bolt-on downpipe would have a new cat in it, or there would be some sort of exemption to run with only one cat. In my opinion, essential to the "anybody can bolt it on at home in a weekend" theme of this kit is the idea that 1) you do not need to permanently destroy any parts of the truck (stock y-pipe), and 2) you do not need to weld anything. You're also trusting the end-user to cut their y-pipe perfectly aligned with the flange of your DP. I am a handy person with a lot of wrenching experience and just a little fab experience, but I have already proven that task is fairly easy to botch.
I have bought 3 y pipes in the last 2-3 years, one, which I chopped up to make a downpipe much like you are having us do here, one which was needed to replace the chopped one when the turbo came off and was subsequently smashed off road, and a replacement for that one. Now with the real Magnaflow pretty much NLA, I am not going to chop this one up. Which means I'll need to source yet another y pipe or just fabricate my own lower section/cat. Which ultimately leaves me with the exact same weakness of my original turbo kit, and the only reason I dumped it in the first place.
At this point, I am invested in the progress of this kit, but this is literally the ONE THING I was trying to avoid by getting the kit. I'd pay more for a complete downpipe that bolts to the second cat.
Sorta just venting here, but I also do hope you're not too far along to take this point of view into consideration before the final product.
I have bought 3 y pipes in the last 2-3 years, one, which I chopped up to make a downpipe much like you are having us do here, one which was needed to replace the chopped one when the turbo came off and was subsequently smashed off road, and a replacement for that one. Now with the real Magnaflow pretty much NLA, I am not going to chop this one up. Which means I'll need to source yet another y pipe or just fabricate my own lower section/cat. Which ultimately leaves me with the exact same weakness of my original turbo kit, and the only reason I dumped it in the first place.
At this point, I am invested in the progress of this kit, but this is literally the ONE THING I was trying to avoid by getting the kit. I'd pay more for a complete downpipe that bolts to the second cat.
Sorta just venting here, but I also do hope you're not too far along to take this point of view into consideration before the final product.
Last edited:
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Since this is the first real criticism of this project, give me some time to respond.
Of course, thanks for your consideration--feel free to call or PM if you prefer. 
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2002
- Threads
- 168
- Messages
- 5,346
- Location
- Durango, Colorado
- Website
- www.durangomagazine.com
I'll be honest, I am disappointed by this development. In the end, the only real reason I abandoned my turbo project was the half-assed downpipe. I sold this kit to the wife as "everything will bolt together, I will not need to weld a single thing." I was honestly expecting something that bolts to the second cat. And when I heard this thing was going the way of CARB, I kind of assumed the bolt-on downpipe would have a new cat in it, or there would be some sort of exemption to run with only one cat. In my opinion, essential to the "anybody can bolt it on at home in a weekend" theme of this kit is the idea that 1) you do not need to permanently destroy any parts of the truck (stock y-pipe), and 2) you do not need to weld anything. You're also trusting the end-user to cut their y-pipe perfectly aligned with the flange of your DP. I am a handy person with a lot of wrenching experience and just a little fab experience, but I have already proven that task is fairly easy to botch.
I have bought 3 y pipes in the last 2-3 years, one, which I chopped up to make a downpipe much like you are having us do here, one which was needed to replace the chopped one when the turbo came off and was subsequently smashed off road, and a replacement for that one. Now with the real Magnaflow pretty much NLA, I am not going to chop this one up. Which means I'll need to source yet another y pipe or just fabricate my own lower section/cat. Which ultimately leaves me with the exact same weakness of my original turbo kit, and the only reason I dumped it in the first place.
At this point, I am invested in the progress of this kit, but this is literally the ONE THING I was trying to avoid by getting the kit. I'd pay more for a complete downpipe that bolts to the second cat.
Sorta just venting here, but I also do hope you're not too far along to take this point of view into consideration before the final product.
While not a deal breaker for me this is probably a solid concern for the vast majority. The only thing that is hard for me is the total lack of a performance exhaust shop in my area.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Of course, thanks for your consideration--feel free to call or PM if you prefer.
PM sent
Local reputable shop has quoted me $65 to cut and weld on a new flange. No dealbreaker here.
So, if you’re in a state where they do a visual and they’re hardcore, I can see why the cat thing is really important. I just replaced the cats on my Tacoma with two high-flow Vibrant cats and everything is fine. No OBD2 codes. Why are we all feeling tied to the Magnaflow cat? I had a shop help me with the install on my Taco. Even got some V-bands on my y-pipe to make it more tidy.
:ninja edit:
My comment towards the Magnaflow cat and y-pipe is to say that the last quality alternative to the OEM y-pipe is now gone. If you ever want to bring the truck back to stock, the design of this downpipe makes that impossible--essentially installation of the kit is non-reversible. Or more accurately, the cost of reversal is the purchase of an OEM y-pipe ($1493 according to Norwalk Toyota website), assuming it will still be available at some point down the road when/if you decide to un-install the kit. Yes, you can rely on your local exhaust shop or hot-rod shop, but that isn't a great option for some folks.
Bosal (and now Magnaflow) is not an option, been there, done that, wouldn't touch with a 10-foot pole.
My comment towards the Magnaflow cat and y-pipe is to say that the last quality alternative to the OEM y-pipe is now gone. If you ever want to bring the truck back to stock, the design of this downpipe makes that impossible--essentially installation of the kit is non-reversible. Or more accurately, the cost of reversal is the purchase of an OEM y-pipe ($1493 according to Norwalk Toyota website), assuming it will still be available at some point down the road when/if you decide to un-install the kit. Yes, you can rely on your local exhaust shop or hot-rod shop, but that isn't a great option for some folks.
Bosal (and now Magnaflow) is not an option, been there, done that, wouldn't touch with a 10-foot pole.
Last edited:
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I’m gonna need a little time to decide my options. I may not be able to make everyone happy but I’ll sure try.
