Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Yes, they are the M8x1.25 square weldnuts inside the frame for the bumper extension brackets. I'm going to replace the weldnuts later, with hexagonal pilot projection nuts.
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What I should have done was add heat and some penetrant to the mix, but because of the plastic part of the headlight was still in the way and I didn't want to melt that and because I was worried about botching the paint, I thought I could cut a corner and that was a bad decision.
Does anyone heat the broken bolts with a oxy-acetylene torch (seconds, 5 or less usually) and spray down with water then turn? I've had some luck with this.
This is a recipe for annealing your frame. This is why I never use acetylene or MAPP gas, it gets too hot for the frame material.
I've never had to heat a part till it's red hot to get it out or whatever. If I am heating a part that hot I'm probably cutting it off
Is the MAP-Pro any better
Annealing has nothing to do with hardened alloys. It's a process of relieving stress using heat to rearrange the microstructure present in all metals. Or at least it was when I went to school. Rolled sheet steel, such as that used in the 80 series frame, has inherent stress in it due to the bending operations. These stresses impart a great structural strength to the section than would normally exist. Heating the rolled section beyond 600°F will anneal the frame and weaken it.The frame is mild steel and not a hardened alloy so it doesn't anneal. You can weld on it and heat it all you want. Some car bodies are hardened alloy but not the 80 series.
Don't confuse temperature and heat. An OA torch will raise the temperature of the bolt rapidly while the threaded hole in the frame remains relatively cool. Steel shrinks when you raise the temperature above the A1 phase transition temperature (about 1,400 F) and then let it cool. The shrinking makes it come out easy. Heating with a propane torch for 2 minutes puts more heat into the frame than 15 seconds with an OA torch.