- Thread starter
- #21
thanks, looks like tap handle is the way to go.
bolt broken on transmission pan
- Thread starter pvchaitanya
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
bloc
SILVER Star
This.
But be careful.. if the remaining wall of the bolt is too thin the extractor will expand it in the hole and it won’t go anywhere. Plus those really small extractors are very easy to snap off.. the metal is hard but very brittle.
As Charlie mentioned welding is a very effective way to handle it. It was the only thing that would get a broken exhaust manifold bolt out of a head for me. In that case I broke off a small extractor then went to a larger one and did expand it into the hole. Welding had it out super easy though.
I assume you don’t have the tools though.. know anyone with a small mig machine?
- Thread starter
- #23
No access to welding, if things go really bad. I will put the pan back on and drive it to a mechanic shop.
Any tips on how to buff out slight scratches on the body (When I used the paint scraper as well as drill scratches)?
Also, can I spray the transmission thing which shows when the pan is removed with brake cleaner or mass sensor cleaner?
Some of the metal filings may have spread to it when I am drilling holes.
Any tips on how to buff out slight scratches on the body (When I used the paint scraper as well as drill scratches)?
Also, can I spray the transmission thing which shows when the pan is removed with brake cleaner or mass sensor cleaner?
Some of the metal filings may have spread to it when I am drilling holes.
- Thread starter
- #24
Yeah, one of the extractors broke off. I am still drilling my way through that broken piece again.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
That is why I seldom bother with extractors anymore. They inevitably snap (especially the small ones) and then make the problem go from bad to worse. The extractors are hardened steel, so drilling is all but impossible, and good luck keeping the drill centered on the (typically) uneven surface of the snap. FWIW, that's a big reason why I suggested "jumping" over to the welder solution.
Last edited:
bloc
SILVER Star
I’m not sure what you mean by “body” or “transmission thing”
I’d clean up gouges in the mating surface with a medium to fine file.
- Thread starter
- #27
the transmission body where the pan meets the metal surface.
- Thread starter
- #28
You are right, now I was able to drill through the whole bolt and make it slowly bigger and bigger bit.
Planning to rethread the hole.
TLC2013
SILVER Star
Sorry to hear of your troubles. Let us know how it all works out. Getting the new fluid and filter in will be all worth it.
In my experience i also had a challenging time Seperating the pan from the transmission body. I was fortunate enough to get the bolts to all come out easily but the pan and its gasket seemed to be fused to the transmission body.
I ended up using the bottle jack positioned sideways against frame with a block of wood to act as a softener against the pan. Extending the jack into the pan did the trick to finally seperate the pan from the body. I don't plan on changing the filter again, just fluid changes going forward.
In my experience i also had a challenging time Seperating the pan from the transmission body. I was fortunate enough to get the bolts to all come out easily but the pan and its gasket seemed to be fused to the transmission body.
I ended up using the bottle jack positioned sideways against frame with a block of wood to act as a softener against the pan. Extending the jack into the pan did the trick to finally seperate the pan from the body. I don't plan on changing the filter again, just fluid changes going forward.
- Thread starter
- #30
one more observation. Its been 2 days since my pan is dropped and the transmission fluid keeps dripping more and more. (Looks like from torque converter it comes out slowly).
The point though is when we fill it up, it needs to be filled up to the fill hole (not the overflow hole) . last time i did a quick fill to warm my transmission, I filled more than the overflow hole, and after I drove and came back, when I started draining, there is no oil coming down from the overflow hole even when its warm. This is important to overfill the transmission initially and shift the gears when truck is parked and then check, otherwise we will risk the chance of running transmission dry.
The point though is when we fill it up, it needs to be filled up to the fill hole (not the overflow hole) . last time i did a quick fill to warm my transmission, I filled more than the overflow hole, and after I drove and came back, when I started draining, there is no oil coming down from the overflow hole even when its warm. This is important to overfill the transmission initially and shift the gears when truck is parked and then check, otherwise we will risk the chance of running transmission dry.
- Thread starter
- #31
one bolt is successfully drilled and threaded.
the other one had a broken extractor bit which is making it very hard to drill into as noted by CharlieS. None of my cobalt or titanium drills are able to make any progress.
Any suggestions?
I am inclined to skip this bolt if its ok. I am thinking that the pan will not leak for lack of one bolt. thoughts?
the other one had a broken extractor bit which is making it very hard to drill into as noted by CharlieS. None of my cobalt or titanium drills are able to make any progress.
Any suggestions?
I am inclined to skip this bolt if its ok. I am thinking that the pan will not leak for lack of one bolt. thoughts?
Mine has one less bolt (rear corner broke ) it sealed fine.
Those corner bolts protrude out the top, correct? Can you get a bite on the part that protrudes with a set of vice grips or something and thread it through? I think the reason those are so troublesome is corrosion on the exposed portion. Sorry if this has been staTed before. Maybe you can thread it out the top side.
bloc
SILVER Star
If anyone wants to preemptively change those bolts the following numbers are for a 2013. I'd assume they are the same from 2008-2015
Parts diagram denotes 90119-A0401 for (L) or 91611-B0625 for (J). I'm not sure what L or J is in reference to.. but on the discount parts site the second number comes up as incorrect for my truck.
They are cheap so I plan on buying two of each with my next parts order, then toss them in.. and put grease on the exposed end. I doubt I'll remember to update here which one confirms fitting.. but will try to.
Edit: more digging. The J number comes up for an 08 LX. I don't know whether 16+ 8-speeds also have the protruding bolt but it is 90119-06A02. This number also got added in 2014, but it also lists the J and L number for that year. Not really sure where to start with these numbers. Maybe J for 08-11, L for 13-15, 06A02 for 8-spd? Glad they aren't expensive.
Parts diagram denotes 90119-A0401 for (L) or 91611-B0625 for (J). I'm not sure what L or J is in reference to.. but on the discount parts site the second number comes up as incorrect for my truck.
They are cheap so I plan on buying two of each with my next parts order, then toss them in.. and put grease on the exposed end. I doubt I'll remember to update here which one confirms fitting.. but will try to.
Edit: more digging. The J number comes up for an 08 LX. I don't know whether 16+ 8-speeds also have the protruding bolt but it is 90119-06A02. This number also got added in 2014, but it also lists the J and L number for that year. Not really sure where to start with these numbers. Maybe J for 08-11, L for 13-15, 06A02 for 8-spd? Glad they aren't expensive.
- Thread starter
- #35
the bolts I bought for my 11 lx is 90080-11224
bloc
SILVER Star
Is that an exact match? Parts diagrams show that being used on the top of the trans retaining the breather pipes, not the pan. Not that it won't fit.. just.. doesn't satisfy my OCD.
RET2
SILVER Star
Never seize on the new ones?
- Thread starter
- #38
thats exact match for my pan bolts. 2011 lx 570.
Btw, making progress with a dremel and chain saw sharpening head.
saw a post here on how to remove a broken bolt extractor. Here's How You Remove A Fractured Bolt Extractor Tip From Inside A Broken Bolt - https://jalopnik.com/heres-how-you-remove-a-fractured-bolt-extractor-tip-fro-1746998630
dremel seems to make the progress much quicker than all the drill bit I tried in the previous hole.
- Thread starter
- #39
The dremel tool with chain saw sharpening bit did the trick. In fact it is faster than using a drill even on an regular stripped bolt.
I covered my transmission with aluminium foil and used sticky aluminium tape used for HVAC to cover the parts.
The method of dremel or drill and thread is lot more easier than trying tapping and extractor. Lesson learned, never use extractor tool. Its PITA.
I covered my transmission with aluminium foil and used sticky aluminium tape used for HVAC to cover the parts.
The method of dremel or drill and thread is lot more easier than trying tapping and extractor. Lesson learned, never use extractor tool. Its PITA.
- Thread starter
- #40
finally got everything fixedup, put in new ATF and all good.
Some final thoughts, notes, observations:
1. Get all new bolts for everything. after fixing the two broken bolts on pan, I replaced filter and reused the bolts. Once of the bolt broke when I tightening below the required torque. (Get new bolts for filter as well)
2. If your bolt extractor gets stuck, just use a dremel with chain saw bit. It is really fast to remove the hardened tool steel extractor.
3. The transmission fluid keeps leaking even after 3 days and when I filled it up, it gulped good 9 quarts straight. I filled it up all the way to fill hole thrice and still the fluid didn't overflow through the overflow drain once the engine is turned on and when I opened the overflow drain. This is especially important to overfill the pan if you have the transmission open for a day or two.
Some final thoughts, notes, observations:
1. Get all new bolts for everything. after fixing the two broken bolts on pan, I replaced filter and reused the bolts. Once of the bolt broke when I tightening below the required torque. (Get new bolts for filter as well)
2. If your bolt extractor gets stuck, just use a dremel with chain saw bit. It is really fast to remove the hardened tool steel extractor.
3. The transmission fluid keeps leaking even after 3 days and when I filled it up, it gulped good 9 quarts straight. I filled it up all the way to fill hole thrice and still the fluid didn't overflow through the overflow drain once the engine is turned on and when I opened the overflow drain. This is especially important to overfill the pan if you have the transmission open for a day or two.
