bolt broken on transmission pan

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I’m at Toyota now having this service done (no time or I would take it on myself) and wouldn’t you know it, they sheered off 3 bolts. Toyota says they’re going to “drill them out and re-tap to original size” I shared this thread with the tech. Wish me luck and thanks for the good info!
 
Don’t worry, this is a common thing for shops to successfully remove broken bolts all the time.
 
I've never paid to have this done. Does the shop charge their hourly labor rate to do the repair?
 
I've never paid to have this done. Does the shop charge their hourly labor rate to do the repair?
I’m expecting $450-500 but I have an open tab with some additional items on it. Not sure if the previous owner did anything so I’m pricing out diff fluid swap.
 
Anyone have thoughts on dropping a little oil into the open hole above the offending bolts periodically as PM? I don't know whether stainless hardware will play nice with aluminum or I'd say replace them with stuff that won't corrode..
 
I wouldn’t pay them to drill and tap the bolts they broke, unless they told me ahead of time if I did the service that was a risk. But that’s just me.
 
Nope that’s on them, I’m paying for the service I requested not the hours they’ll spend tapping
Ah good, from your reply it sounded like you were expecting to pay $450-500
 
Friend recommended Shudder Fixx to smooth out my 1-2 2-3 issue. I haven’t seen it mentioned specifically, anyone tried it?
I have not. I would not just put additives into our transmission, unless there's an impending failure you're trying to stave off. I actually think the shifting issue is related to how the transmission is programmed as I think it's Roberts in Australia that has a remap option which can fix this
 
I have not. I would not just put additives into our transmission, unless there's an impending failure you're trying to stave off. I actually think the shifting issue is related to how the transmission is programmed as I think it's Roberts in Australia that has a remap option which can fix this
Think it might be too late to go back, I was unaware there was a remap program to address the issue. I did try and pull the battery and let the computer reset before hand, issue is minor but still - it's there.
 
Anyone have thoughts on dropping a little oil into the open hole above the offending bolts periodically as PM? I don't know whether stainless hardware will play nice with aluminum or I'd say replace them with stuff that won't corrode..
When I installed my new bolts, I put anti-size into each thread and sprayed wd40 rust inhibition specialist onto each bolt as well as the top part where the screw comes out of. Hoping this helps when I do the job next time.

Regarding additives, the only one I would think of putting is the BG transmission additive which you put and run your transmission before draining old fluid.
 
Regarding additives, generally - I don't think there's any harm in adding a lubricity compound like Shudder Fixx. That being said, from what I understand most early signs of issues can be addressed by replacing the fluid entirely and adding a new filter.
 
I'm getting ready to drop the pan at 150k miles.
Listing what's needed
9 qts trans fluid
Pan Bolts # 90080-11224
pan gasket
new screen and bolts.

What am I missing?
 
I'm getting ready to drop the pan at 150k miles.
Listing what's needed
9 qts trans fluid
Pan Bolts # 90080-11224
pan gasket
new screen and bolts.

What am I missing?
liberally spraying the bolt shafts with penetrant so you dont snap them on removal
 
I'm getting ready to drop the pan at 150k miles.
Listing what's needed
9 qts trans fluid
Pan Bolts # 90080-11224
pan gasket
new screen and bolts.

What am I missing?
This is the post I followed and went through 14 quarts. I would have additional trans fluid on hand. You may spill some, lose too much from the cooler return line…speaking from experience here. It’s no fun having to run out and buy fluid during the exchange process.

 
My '11 started acting weird at 130k miles, so I went nuclear on it and paid a dealer to swap all the fluid, plus drop the pan and clean the magnets and change the screen. Yup, he snapped 3 bolts removing the pan. It was pretty expensive by the time I also paid for a case of WS fluid, but the problem totally went away so it was worth it.

When I got my '15 at 40k, the first thing I did was spend several hours under it cleaning, every bolt I could reach got removed, anti-seized, and reinstalled. Did all the tranny pan bolts as well. I've since checked them and they are all still fine.
 
Thanks you guys 😀
 

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