You don't need ought (0) wire. #4 would be more than fine. Welding cable is ideal for price and availability. Consider a breaker at the battery side feed to give circuit protection and convenient "off" switch for maintenance.
Blue Sea Fuse Block Install Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 2000UZJ
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Here's something i followed when i had my FJC
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/how-technical-articles/52993-12-circuit-switched-fuse-box.html
Alternatively you can also run a painless wire harness which i also did. Hope this helps.
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/how-technical-articles/52993-12-circuit-switched-fuse-box.html
Alternatively you can also run a painless wire harness which i also did. Hope this helps.
TrekboxX
Supporting Vendor
H
Agreed. I used ought gage for my winch setup, but that's because it's capable of 400+ amps. But it's not a terrible idea. If you look at ampacity charts, it's surprising how little each gauge is really rated for. I spent a fortune on it for my last truck where I ran a full ought gage circuit to the rear. Whatever you do, get the good stuff. The flexibility is worth the extra cost.
Agreed. I used ought gage for my winch setup, but that's because it's capable of 400+ amps. But it's not a terrible idea. If you look at ampacity charts, it's surprising how little each gauge is really rated for. I spent a fortune on it for my last truck where I ran a full ought gage circuit to the rear. Whatever you do, get the good stuff. The flexibility is worth the extra cost.
I agree with taking your time and getting the right material. if you're going to do it once, you might as well go to the trouble of wiring everything in properly. when i added my second battery and t maxx daul battery system, i bought 1 gauge for between my batteries and for my grounds, then took 2 gauge through the fire wall from the auxiliary battery to my blue sea fuse block under the passenger side dash, then ran a second 2 gauge line from the auxiliary battery to the rear of the truck for another blue sea fuse block for the rear of the truck.. the front fuse block had my LED driving lights, reverse lights, LED camping spots off the hatch, CB etc. the rear fuse block does all the charging related duties in the rear: dual usb's, dual 12v sockets, power inverter, fridge duty (yet to be installed) and anything else that might need power.. lots of room for expansion.. both runs from the auxiliary have 100 amp breakers right off the battery run, plus redone grounds with heavy gauge. all connections were soldered, heat wrapped, electrical taped and wire loomed through the engine bay right to the fuse blocks.
so far, it has worked well and allows me to expand as i need. i don't know what else that has to be added at this point, but i have options. I think it was one of the more fun projects as it allowed me to clean up and improve much of the wiring i.e. new terminals, thicker wiring, looming to protect everything, dieletric grease on all terminals, properly crimped and soldered ends, better organization. i used welding cable for all the runs; made sense and while cheaper than regular audio wiring, i feel the insulating material is more robust and less susceptible to wear, even more so with looming.
so far, it has worked well and allows me to expand as i need. i don't know what else that has to be added at this point, but i have options. I think it was one of the more fun projects as it allowed me to clean up and improve much of the wiring i.e. new terminals, thicker wiring, looming to protect everything, dieletric grease on all terminals, properly crimped and soldered ends, better organization. i used welding cable for all the runs; made sense and while cheaper than regular audio wiring, i feel the insulating material is more robust and less susceptible to wear, even more so with looming.
If you have not checked my post on this you might want to, different way to separate circuits:
Dual battery with blue sea system
Dual battery with blue sea system
TrekboxX
Supporting Vendor
Skidoo- from the looks of it, you are killing winch power and starter together, right? So, do you usually keep the winch powered day to day or do you pop the hood everytime you need to start the truck?
- Thread starter
- #27
I'm moving a lot slower than I expected. But I want to take my time. I stumbled upon some old jumper cables that I never used. 220AMP rating, 8 gauge, 12ft. Decided to chop them up and make my main power cables out of them. I still have 9 feet left, which will go inside for a front row power inverter
- Thread starter
- #28
Slooooooow progress.
Mounting location determined and tray fabbed up. I went through three pieces of steel. I have no bender, which makes it very hard to make nice bends. Pics of first attempt. I have added aluminum bracing to the bottom to minimize vibration, not that it matters, but just for good measure
Mounting location determined and tray fabbed up. I went through three pieces of steel. I have no bender, which makes it very hard to make nice bends. Pics of first attempt. I have added aluminum bracing to the bottom to minimize vibration, not that it matters, but just for good measure
2000UZJ said:
Step 1. Steam clean that engine bay!
I try to do it annually (due now). It comes back factory new looking. Makes digging into projects so much nicer.
1407driver - I leave switch on with power to starter and winch, turn off for more security when leaving truck in wilds.
2000UZJ - that sheet metal mount is way too thin for offroad, it will constantly flex and eventually break off.
2000UZJ - that sheet metal mount is way too thin for offroad, it will constantly flex and eventually break off.
- Thread starter
- #33
Skidoo said:
I riveted a aluminum brace on the bottom. It doesn't budge. That is one thing I was worried about.
I finished up the low beams, high beams, and main components last night. The power and ground are way to long. I will have to cut about 5ft off and recrimp.
- Thread starter
- #34
A few weeks have passed and no issues yet. I am going to start running the power for the outlets this weekend. I picked up the rest of the switches and hardware for the install. I have marked the areas in the cargo area that I will be drilling/cutting. The entire interior needs to come out anyways, may as well lay cable! I cannot for the life of me get the original battery terminals off, so I can't connect the power cable how I want it. I have been soaking it in PB for a while now and still won't budge. Any suggestions?
Try brushing with baking soda/hot water.
Then go with PB and a wire bush. Terminal puller may be needed.
hth
Steve
Agree on the baking soda. That should help lots!
While you are at it, I would highly recommend upgrading your terminals too!
- Thread starter
- #38
That is the plan. I need to get the OEM's off first!
Does the dealership do steam cleanings or where are you going to get this service done? Or is it a DIY type job?
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@2000UZJ If you don't mind me asking, how did you wire the resistors into your turn signals? I recently replaced my front signals with LEDs and I have rapid blinking. After taking the lights out again I see there are 3 wires leading into the turn signal harness but I'm not sure which 2 to splice in to.
