Ah - I didn't see that detail in the schematic. Must have missed it in the photos. Nice job. Looks better than professional.
Blue Sea Dual Battery Install
- Thread starter mtkreitz
- Start date
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Ah - I didn't see that detail in the schematic. Must have missed it in the photos. Nice job. Looks better than professional.
That looks like pretty good wire. Tinned, high strand count, as long as the jacket is not going to break down and start cracking in the heat of an engine compartment. The ad for the $3.89 wire says it is 60°C tolerant... that might be a bit low.
The $4.99 wire is rated 105°C, which is what I'd recommend. SHW10 - Stinger HPM 1/0 Gauge Premium Power Cable
Ancor marine wire has these specs for temp: 105° C dry and 75° C wet, and is resistant to heat and abrasion. Car's usually don't need to worry about dampness...
Posts 1 & 2 switched?
This looks like the cables from the start battery and starter go to post #1 instead of #2. When the switch is mounted, post #1 is on the ds, post #2 is on the ps. I'm confused because I am trying to install the same kit. Please confirm.
This looks like the cables from the start battery and starter go to post #1 instead of #2. When the switch is mounted, post #1 is on the ds, post #2 is on the ps. I'm confused because I am trying to install the same kit. Please confirm.
House vs Start, 1 vs 2 is really just terms; not critical for operation. Just think battery 1 and battery 2. If wire layout makes it easier for bat 2 to be your primary, make it so.
A couple caveats:
- Verify your alternator is 125A or less.
- The 7650 kit only combines batteries, it doesn't let you select one or the other.
http://www.bluesea.com/products/7650
http://www.bluesea.com/products/5511e/e-Series_Dual_Circuit_Plus_Battery_Switch
A couple caveats:
- Verify your alternator is 125A or less.
- The 7650 kit only combines batteries, it doesn't let you select one or the other.
http://www.bluesea.com/products/7650
http://www.bluesea.com/products/5511e/e-Series_Dual_Circuit_Plus_Battery_Switch
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- Thread starter
- #25
GW is right. To my knowledge post 1 & 2 are just terms. You can put your house or start battery on either. It is either all on, all off or combined.
I owned a boat and did all the silly battery tricks = so have some experience with having multiple battery banks, high output alternators, and other holes in the water that you pour money into.
Shorting a charged battery to an uncharged battery isn't wise. So this application will only be useful if both bats are charged or discharged. Essentially an emergency situation where one dead battery alone almost cranks the engine... and two dead bats just might finish the job.
Also, high capacity wire is not intended to be wrapped. These wires can get hot, and putting them inside a plastic sheath retains heat that really needs to be dissipated (wire has temp ratings for a reason).
Shorting a charged battery to an uncharged battery isn't wise. So this application will only be useful if both bats are charged or discharged. Essentially an emergency situation where one dead battery alone almost cranks the engine... and two dead bats just might finish the job.
Also, high capacity wire is not intended to be wrapped. These wires can get hot, and putting them inside a plastic sheath retains heat that really needs to be dissipated (wire has temp ratings for a reason).
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I have a Sequoia alternator, forgot if it 130A or 150A. So this Blue Sea battery kit will not work?
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From their web site:
Blue Sea Systems popular Add-A-Battery kit was primarily designed for boats with alternator output of 120A or less.
As a practical matter, a 125/130a alternation is probably just fine; a 150a may push it when a battery is really dead and you try to charge it up through this relay; 100a fuses and all.
Why do you want 2 batteries?
So this one works better for my application?
I want 2 batteries because I have a few lights installed plus the amplifier. They drain my battery in a few days without running.
Yes, that combiner is rated for larger alternators. But this one (7622) has a switch for manual use built in - making it similar to the other kit.
http://www.bluesea.com/products/762...rging_Relay_with_Manual_Control_-_12V_DC_500A
Another alternative: just limit power to the problem loads: and then no need to add the complexity of a second
battery. Says it'll be availble early next year.
http://www.bluesea.com/products/7635/m-LVD_Low_Voltage_Disconnect
You probably know this already. Using basic car batteries that aren't designed for cyclic use is bad practice; after even 100 cycles can see significant damage and loss of capacity. So consider a deep cycle battery. Even then, full discharge is still bad, 50% is the accepted lowest minimum level to maximize life (usually only 800 cycles for very good special order deep cycles limited to a 50%-80% Charge/Discharge range).
For higher-end Rolls 4k batteries:
http://cdn.freshdesk.com/data/helpd...n/14309599/original/Rolls_4000.jpg?1386698234
For premiere Rolls 5k batteries:
http://cdn.freshdesk.com/data/helpd...n/14309653/original/Rolls_5000.jpg?1386698260
http://www.bluesea.com/products/762...rging_Relay_with_Manual_Control_-_12V_DC_500A
Another alternative: just limit power to the problem loads: and then no need to add the complexity of a second
battery. Says it'll be availble early next year.
http://www.bluesea.com/products/7635/m-LVD_Low_Voltage_Disconnect
You probably know this already. Using basic car batteries that aren't designed for cyclic use is bad practice; after even 100 cycles can see significant damage and loss of capacity. So consider a deep cycle battery. Even then, full discharge is still bad, 50% is the accepted lowest minimum level to maximize life (usually only 800 cycles for very good special order deep cycles limited to a 50%-80% Charge/Discharge range).
For higher-end Rolls 4k batteries:
http://cdn.freshdesk.com/data/helpd...n/14309599/original/Rolls_4000.jpg?1386698234
For premiere Rolls 5k batteries:
http://cdn.freshdesk.com/data/helpd...n/14309653/original/Rolls_5000.jpg?1386698260
Thank you GW.
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Fro Blue Sea supports. I guess I will go ahead to install it.
Dear Phuc,
If your alternator exceeds 120 amps for more than 5 minutes at a time the ACR could be at risk. The ACR is rated to handle 120 amps continuously, but can accept spikes up 210 amps intermittently for no more than 5 minutes at a time.
Best Regards,
Terry Golombek
Customer Service Manager
TEL: 360-738-8230, ext. 117
DIRECT: 360-594-6117
TOLL FREE: 800-222-7617
FAX: 360-734-4195
CUST SVC: 360-738-8230, Option 1
TECH SUP: 360-738-8230, Option 2
Direct: tgolombek@bluesea.com
Customer Service: conductor@bluesea.com
WEB: www.bluesea.com
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Dear Phuc,
If your alternator exceeds 120 amps for more than 5 minutes at a time the ACR could be at risk. The ACR is rated to handle 120 amps continuously, but can accept spikes up 210 amps intermittently for no more than 5 minutes at a time.
Best Regards,
Terry Golombek
Customer Service Manager
TEL: 360-738-8230, ext. 117
DIRECT: 360-594-6117
TOLL FREE: 800-222-7617
FAX: 360-734-4195
CUST SVC: 360-738-8230, Option 1
TECH SUP: 360-738-8230, Option 2
Direct: tgolombek@bluesea.com
Customer Service: conductor@bluesea.com
WEB: www.bluesea.com
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Make sure they are thermal not electromagnetic breakers.
e.g., This is the right type:
Circuit Breaker Type : Thermally responsive Bi-metal blade
http://www.bluesea.com/products/7144/187-Series_Circuit_Breaker_-_Surface_Mount_100A
This would be the wrong type:
Circuit Breaker Type: Magnetic Hydraulic - trip free
http://www.bluesea.com/products/7250I/Circuit_Breaker_CA1_100A_Red_IP
Recommendation based on minimal experience with 200A breakers for high load 12V battery applications, like windlasses on boats. In my experience, magnetic breakers are like fast-blo fuses, thermal breakers are like slow-blo. ymmv
e.g., This is the right type:
Circuit Breaker Type : Thermally responsive Bi-metal blade
http://www.bluesea.com/products/7144/187-Series_Circuit_Breaker_-_Surface_Mount_100A
This would be the wrong type:
Circuit Breaker Type: Magnetic Hydraulic - trip free
http://www.bluesea.com/products/7250I/Circuit_Breaker_CA1_100A_Red_IP
Recommendation based on minimal experience with 200A breakers for high load 12V battery applications, like windlasses on boats. In my experience, magnetic breakers are like fast-blo fuses, thermal breakers are like slow-blo. ymmv
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It's thermal. Learning new things here. Thanks
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- Thread starter
- #39
Wire/Fuse selection reference
From the Blue Sea web site... This should help anyone who is trying to decide the wire/fuse combination that will serve them best.
I chose to go with the heavier wire, because at some point in the future I may choose to upgrade my alternator to a 120A version. I also have a case of the 'more-is-better' syndrome
If I do upgrade the alternator, then I would change out my 100A fuses for 175A. I figured it was easier to replace fuses then to replace the wiring if my needs changed.
From the Blue Sea web site... This should help anyone who is trying to decide the wire/fuse combination that will serve them best.
I chose to go with the heavier wire, because at some point in the future I may choose to upgrade my alternator to a 120A version. I also have a case of the 'more-is-better' syndrome
If I do upgrade the alternator, then I would change out my 100A fuses for 175A. I figured it was easier to replace fuses then to replace the wiring if my needs changed.
That is an important chart.
Blue-Sea has more confidence in their combiner than the specs would show. That's a good thing.... means it's a very conservative rating.
-- I'm dweebing off a bit here, take it with a grain.
I'm not suggesting anything is wrong with their suggestions - just speaking out about a detail they've said that doesn't make me comfortable. Something a bit contradictory to prior learnings - the devil is in the details sort of thing.
But absorption phase charging of a even a smallish auto size deep cycle battery can last a lot longer than five minutes and easily exceed their 5min/200+ amp suggestion for the 120A version. If the alternator is large enough.
Then again, I see a spec like this from Optima: But how many trucks here have temperature monitoring and battery probes in their charging system?
It just seems like the manufacturers are expecting a lot more battery tech knowledge in their users than is probably there.
ps: - all the 150A and 175A numbers and I missed the key spec: 120A max alternator. They did their homework after all.
Blue-Sea has more confidence in their combiner than the specs would show. That's a good thing.... means it's a very conservative rating.
-- I'm dweebing off a bit here, take it with a grain.
I'm not suggesting anything is wrong with their suggestions - just speaking out about a detail they've said that doesn't make me comfortable. Something a bit contradictory to prior learnings - the devil is in the details sort of thing.
But absorption phase charging of a even a smallish auto size deep cycle battery can last a lot longer than five minutes and easily exceed their 5min/200+ amp suggestion for the 120A version. If the alternator is large enough.
Then again, I see a spec like this from Optima: But how many trucks here have temperature monitoring and battery probes in their charging system?
Recommended charging information:
Alternator:
13.65 to 15.0 volts, no amperage limit.
Battery Charger:
13.8 to 15.0 volts, 10 amps maximum, approximately for 6-12 hours.
Cyclic Applications:
14.7 volts, no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). When current falls below 1 amp, finish with 2 amp constant current for 1 hour.
Alternator:
13.65 to 15.0 volts, no amperage limit.
Battery Charger:
13.8 to 15.0 volts, 10 amps maximum, approximately for 6-12 hours.
Cyclic Applications:
14.7 volts, no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). When current falls below 1 amp, finish with 2 amp constant current for 1 hour.
It just seems like the manufacturers are expecting a lot more battery tech knowledge in their users than is probably there.
ps: - all the 150A and 175A numbers and I missed the key spec: 120A max alternator. They did their homework after all.
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