Builds BJ74 LHD 1HZ+T build

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how is running 30 psi on a 13BT recommended by Toyota?

Toyota make direct injection engines that run over 30psi boost. But they have not and will never make a propane fumigated diesel.
 
hey dougal and crushers... go back through my build post, and delete all your unrelated posts. no offense and all, i'm all for debate... it's actually quite funny... But there's a chitchat section for a reason.
 
gifu said:
hey dougal and crushers... go back through my build post, and delete all your unrelated posts. no offense and all, i'm all for debate... it's actually quite funny... But there's a chitchat section for a reason.

Could have not said it better.
 
No kidding. You boys go race your mustang and camaro and tell the teach hello for me.
 
gifu how is the truck running?

Can you show how you plumbed the water cooling? and explain it a bit.
 
I deleted the rear heater, as I plan to install a Tuffy; and the water lines were rusting.
The water lines for the 1HZ are simple... the stock pipe that runs behind the turbo on passenger side pulls coolant from the area right near the thermostat. 5/8" hose goes into heater core valve. Comes out of heater core and into driver's side of the block.

I T-ed into the water line before and after the heater core... and run a 1/2" line in/out of the turbo.

So, in a sense, the turbo is run in parallel with the heater core. Regardless of heater core valve position, the turbo will receive coolant.

I
 
good question.
The BJ74 has a shorter windshield then donor car (BJ70) because of the hinges (fold down).
I used the BJ70 linkage and such. The area is already imprinted for the wiper posts; just measure and drill/cut. But the wiper swing was too much. The wipers were off the windshield at rest or at the top.

The solution was to remove the little arm that bolts to the wiper motor... and cut out a 1/4" section. Maybe less. It was trial and error. The wipers work down. At rest they are in the correct spot... and the sweep is... good. Not perfect. But good.
 
good question.
The BJ74 has a shorter windshield then donor car (BJ70) because of the hinges (fold down).
I used the BJ70 linkage and such. The area is already imprinted for the wiper posts; just measure and drill/cut. But the wiper swing was too much. The wipers were off the windshield at rest or at the top.

The solution was to remove the little arm that bolts to the wiper motor... and cut out a 1/4" section. Maybe less. It was trial and error. The wipers work down. At rest they are in the correct spot... and the sweep is... good. Not perfect. But good.


I must of sat in front of a 74 and 70 for a hour trying to figure this one out, really cool that wipers are correct for that drive. If you do not mind shoot a couple more pics of the vehicle complete...

:beer:
Rob
 
well... they are sorta correct. I also had to bend the arms quite a bit.
Are you planning on doing a LHD swap? what pictures would help?

~B
 
there you go again with your logic and easy solutions. sheesh.

where were you 3 months ago when I was driving in the rain the my wipers were hitting the car next to me?
 
probably driving my ford with the same thing happening due to incorrect wiper blades being delivered and installed at the last minute ...

embarrasing, isn't it?
 
well... they are sorta correct. I also had to bend the arms quite a bit.
Are you planning on doing a LHD swap? what pictures would help?

~B

Its a dream of mine, yours came ture:beer:.


Rob
 
It was so much easier than I thought. really. It's not a difficult job. If you have a complete donor vehicle. Also, I didn't weld up all the old holes (column, pedals, etc), but bolted/sealed block off plates.

Do it! I was going to sell that truck (again) and now I'll keep it forever.
 
Nice choice in fact i am trying to research how to swap a 3b motor out of my 1986 bj70 swb landy with a 1hz, not meaning to highjack but if you dont mind have you any recomendations based on your experience as to the best doner car to get it from to suit my 12 volt 3b diesel system?
 
In a Landy? I guess I'd swap everything over. The engine, tranny, transfer, axles, suspension, frame, body, etc.
:)
I'm not sure it matters where you get your motor. All the 1HZ are pretty much the same. In the USA, just finding one is the hardest part.
 
I plan to turbo the 1HZ using a GT2860RS .64 (ie: Disco Potato). I was really tempted to go with one of the G-Turbos, but part of me just wanted to experiment and I was also running out of budget. The Disco Potato parts added up to about $1360. Parts needed:
-Turbo: ($1030 shipped)
-Oil line: 48” oil line, AN4 to 1/8”NPT fittings Speedway Part #6174060-48 ($25)
-Oil T: Generic 1/8” NPT “T”, Amazon ($10)
EDIT: the thread required for the block is 1/8 in. BSPT; Auto Meter 2269 adapter will work.
-Oil inlet: -4AN oil feed for GT Ball bearing with .035” hole restrictor (amazon or ebay) ($15)
-Oil outlet: 5/8” return flange for T28 ($15)
- Turbo Water Pipe Kit M14x1.5mm (ebay) ($15)
-T25/T28 to 3” V-band adapter ($50)
-1HZ to T25 Adapter $200. (from Australia)
-Will also need a couple silicon elbows to connect air filter to turbo, and turbo to cross over pipe. ($75?)

**Thread revival**

I was curious if you still drive the LC or it's sold? as mentioned looking to Turo my 1HZ next fall :)

Where's the best place to get the GT2860RS?
 

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