BJ70 Audio questions... (1 Viewer)

[Island Moose]

Hey guys,

For anyone that has been into a 70 dash, what size are those two pathetic speakers on either side, facing directly toward the driver and passenger (under the metal grill)?
What are some options for additional speaker placement? I was thinking about the doors, but they're not that deep. Anyone been down this road?

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

I have pretty big pioneer speakers in the rear side panels, pretty much exactly in the middle of the rear bench. There is ample space there, and you can wire them easily and invisible under the side panels, under the plastic cover of the door frame, and up the front into the dash. works very well.
You can get a good look at the small front passenger speaker by taking out the glove box.
J

 

[wesintl]

3.5" and I have them on my work bench. I think you could cram in a 4" At least that's my plan.

 

[tlcruiserman]

Thoses were speakers...

Those were speakers up in the dash I thought those were the buzzers. he he he


Hey Moose did you look at the clutch fan pics I posted on my website?

Thanks,

Michael

 

[Stone]

Michael: The dash speaker holes will fit 4" speakers (I gave Sheldon some Alpine 2-ways at one point and they fit)...but you have to watch out for ones with tall tweeters on them as the tweeters will probably hit the grille.

I do have 6.5" Pioneers 2-way speakers mounted on my front doors, just above the map pocket...there's a square hole behind there that the speakers will fit into. But if you have power windows, you will need to locate them back more (not ideal) as the PW relay/motor is behind there. You will also need spacers to push the speaker out a little since the window bracket will hit the back of the speaker on the way up and down. This is what I found out when I put in Greg's speakers.

Pic of mine:

 

[PJHunter]

If this helps.... I have all Kenwood Speakers in my 70 - an RJ model. I assume the dash is the same. In the doors I have 5.25 Kenwood Dual Mags Components which are the slimmest speakers of their kind on the market. They also sound superb! They sit comfortably in the front doors at the bottom [with the tweeter higher up near the window].

In the rear side panels I have twin Kenwood 6x9 subs. These have their own 200w amp which sits behind the rear side panel and the remote control for the sub sits neatly in the space immediately above the stereo. These subs are designed for tight spaces.

The front speakers run off a Pheonix Gold 300.4 amp which sits on the rear door. And it is possible [because I've done it] to put a 6 stack cd player in the glove box with room to spare so you can still use it. It would be possible to put a 10 stack there but then you'd lose all the room of the glove box.

I also have Boston Acoustic 4 inch speakers in the dash to replace the poxy standard parts. These also run off the PG amp.

In my opinion all of the above equipment gives the best compromise for stereo sound in an acoustically challenged vehicle - which the 70 series is.

If you buy the above equipment on line you'll find its a heck of a lot cheaper than through the stores. I saved £100 alone on the Subs buy shopping online. Stupidly I bought the front speakers from a store and spent £100 more than I could have! Oh well... hindsight is a wonderful thing.

 

[lumpy70]

The dash speakers are 3.5". DO NOT REPLACE THEM WITH ANYTHING...IGNORE THOSE MOUNTING POINTS. I am running a fairly decent steroe setup and I put some higher end Clarion's in the dash and I can barely hear them.

It has to do with high frequency being directional and those speakers are aimed down. The largest speaker you can put in the door without spacers is 5.5". After that you have to bring it out a bit with spacers of some kind.

With 6x9's in the back, and 5.5's in the front, it sounds pretty good now.

Craig.

 

[Stone]

Just like in my pic, 6.5" speakers will fit in the front door without spacers if you don't have power windows...you just have to make sure you center the speaker over that square hole in the door, or else you will be cutting a little bit of metal (which I had to do).

I also have Pioneer 6x9 3-way speakers in the rear, and the combo does sound fairly good. I am thinking about adding a Bazooka tube with a built-in 50W amp just to get a little more low-end...I know these things aren't the greatest, but I'm looking for something that is fairly small, doesn't draw too much power, and is easily removed. I had a 1000W system when I was in high school, and while I don't miss the raw volume anymore, I do miss hearing the full range of sound.

 

[Island Moose]

Money is an issue for me, as I already have to replace the factory stereo and add a 24-12 converter to the mix. I have been watching eBay and online sources for a decent AM/FM/CD head and 3.5 - 4" 2-ways for the dash. I may have enough money to run a pair of larger 2-ways into the doors or the rear...we'll see.
Thanks for the responses.

 

[lumpy70]

Stone, try one of these instead of a Bazook tube;
http://www.infinitysystems.com/caraudio/product.aspx?ProdId='BASSLINK'&Ser=BSL&Cat=PSU

I was looking for some bass but in a small package just like you. After doing some research, and finding out that the Bazooka tubes were absolute crap, I came up with this one. It's pretty small (about 14"x14"x8"), and cranks out amazing sound for the size, and I've only got the gain up halfway. Consumer reports rated it extremely high as well.

I got mine on ebay for about $225 Cdn. Here are some of the ones currently on ebay;
http://attr-search.ebay.ca/infinity...QQsofocusZpfQQsosortorderZ1QQsosortpropertyZ1

Way better than Bazooka, trust me.

Craig.

 

[NStimac]

Hijack

Hey guys,
I got one of the 24/12-volt converter's from G&S and I wired it to both equalize and convert plus this allowed me to add a 12-volt fuse block. I really liked it set up this way until I added an EGT gauge because it’s always on i.e. not a switched source. So now I am sitting here trying to remember how my CD player is wired because that is switched for sure maybe I've got 24 going through it . I was thinking I could add a relay from the ignition switch to turn on my 12-volt fuse block but then the balancer wouldn’t be functioning unless the truck was on. How do you guys usually wire this up? I was thinking this. Is there an easier way?

-Noah

 

[Stone]

Noah:

I have a diagram of the switch circuit that I have come up with to also allow me to switch back and forth between balnce and convert in the following thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=30118

Diagram:

I was wondering if you could show us a more detailed diagram of your connections in your system? I don't quite understand how your circuit switches from load balance to convert the way you have it diagramed. It looks to me that your 24v relay will break the connection between the battery to the relay to the fuse box, but even then, current can still go from the battery to the fuse box via the white wire of the Solar Converter that has a permanent connection...essentially still having the system in load balance. Thanks.

The way I have mine hooked up, there would be constant power to the 12v fuse box to run items like the car alarm, and the memory function of the radio. The easiest way of adding an ignition switched source of 12v would be to pull the +24v lead from your cigarette lighter and converting that to 12v from your 12v fuse panel, then using that 24v lead (which is switched), run a 24v relay and use 12v from your fuse panel as the source for the 24v relay (pin 30).

 

[NStimac]

Hey Stone,
Right now my converter has the red and black wires to there proper 24volt source and ground. The white wire goes from the converter to the + post on my fuse block then from there to the 12-volt post on the low-side?? (passanger) battery. Does this set up only convert?? Thanks for your help I am new to 24-volt thing.

Happy New Years !!!

-Noah

 

[Stone]

Hi Noah:

Aahh...I see. So you have the relay to break the connection between the fuse box and battery therefore putting the system into convert mode? What was throwing me off was the line labelled "white wire" which would still provide a connection from the Solar Converter to the battery.

I would put the black lead of the Solar Converter directly to the negative pole of the low side battery if you haven't done so already.

Your system sounds fine, but I wonder how having the fusebox inline between the white lead of the Solar Converter and the low side battery would be in real life. There's bi-directional current flow in that lead, and I'm not quite sure how that will affect your 12v accessories, if any of them would be sensitive to that. I don't know if it would be prudent to tap off of that white wire and have a diode to assure one way current flow? I don't pretend to be an electronics expert, so I'll just leave it as a hunch instead of a fact.

Cheers. And Happy New Year to you and yours!

 

[crushers]

all 3 of the LJ71s have the speakers mounted in the rear doors facing forward. sounds nice...