BJ42 refurbisment

[crushers]

Dougal,
I look forward to testing your recommended Garrett turbo. What i found interesting was the turbo is off the shelf and not a custom built one. That makes for a much cheaper sourcing and supplying.

If you are right about any leak, i will be sure to post it up to warn others.
Welcome.

 

[crushers]

the front and rear backing plates in need of replacement.

 

[crushers]

removing the old rotors
the hub ready for disassembly
to remove the hub seal without damage then punch the inner race and the race and bearing will push the seal out ... reusable in fine condition...

 

[crushers]

hub cleaned and ready for sand blasting and PC
the bushing are in very good shape
the rotors turned and ready for S/b & PC

 

[crushers]

back to tearing the front diff apart.
the birfs have no play, no signs of wear, splines are good, no tiny cracks
nice mixture of grease ...

 

[crushers]

seperating the frame where the repairs are needed ...
once we are done this frame will have a whole new life before it.

 

[crushers]

grind, punch out the rivits, grind, punch
seperate
more and more pieces are getting ready for the sand blaster ...
sand blasting also shows where there might be weak spots hidden under the rust.

then it comes back, gets fitted, welded full length of the frame with a gusset behind the splice.
then back the the sand blaster for one last quick blast before getting PC inside and out...

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Wow! Bold moves with the frame.

I didn't realize you could get such large items powder coated. What sort of cost do you anticipate to powder coat the frame? Do you have someone local to you or does it need to be sent some distance? Will you be doing the smaller parts yourself with an old oven?

Thanks in advance for taking the time to address my questions!

 

[crushers]

35% - deleted

 

[crushers]

most ovens can take 12' 6" size parts in this area. Scott is building a new shop with a 20' oven and with removeable dividers so he doesn't have to heat the entire area for smaller items.
no, i send it all out to get done. he treats me very well and it isn't worth it for me to attempt.

the frame, sand blasted, powder, labor and coating will be between $750 and $1000.
the other smaller parts will come in close to the same.

in my mind it is worth every penny. to do a proper paint job you need to sand blast the rust, prep, lay down the primer, lay down the color and it can be difficult to get into the tight areas where as the PC is a charged paint and it is baked on at 450 degrees for 15-18 mins. it bonds to the steel so that when the steel bends it stays bonded.
should you need to touch up, it is still just paint and you can use paint to touch it up. i have been using PC for about 20 years now, IF it is applied PROPERLY then it can not be beat. if it is applied improperly or not prepped right then you are just wasting your money.

Scott is 20 mins away, KMS who also does some of my PC is about 15 min away. for a rural area in the middle of no where, we have some very good sub trades.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Yes, good to read. I rattle-canned a lot of the part on my truck and it just doesn't last any time at all. Ditto for the Cad plating which doesn't stand up either.

I'm strongly thinking of going the Gozzard tub route, possibly with a slight extension, and if the tub is coming off then doing the frame and axles, prop shafts, etc., just makes sense. Thanks for the info.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Have you considered galvanizing the frame as an alternative?

 

[Dougal]

Why are you turning brake rotors and saving hub seals? These are parts I'd simply replace with new on any vehicle if they had any wear, let alone one with this much work being put into it.

 

[crushers]

the rotors had a hint of rust so they recieved a kiss from a lathe to clean them up before PC.

the front end was rebuilt recently, all the parts are in excellent shape.
the inner axle seals will be replaced with double lipped units since the single lipped are a concern on the Cruisers. the one side was showing gear lube contamination already.

Dougal,
thanks for your observation, you do have a critical eye. I did not realize your desire for the old 40s, I might have misjudged you.
the point of the post was to show how most shops remove the seal so they can reuse it. the practice works. if you are working on your own vehicle and you need to remove the seal but don't have the cash or the desire to replace a seal that is newish then this is how to accomplish the task.

during reassembly anything that needs replacing will be replaced.
Seals are cheap and i have them in stock.

The goal at this time is to get the drivetrain reliable, improve the performance a bit, add PS and install the body properly, then we added preventive rust control for the frame and anything under the truck since it will be used year round in a salty enviroment.

Henry,
galvanizing is for bridges and Rovers.
galvanized frames are a bugger to work with.
galvanizing can twist frames since the frame will be acid dipped then into the galvanizing solution and heated to 850 degrees. this heat "relaxes" the frame and it can twist during this time.
The BJ70 worktruck in the other thread had it's frame galvanized. the truck is also sitting crooked, the frame is suspect of being twisted. once the body is removed then we will measure and find out exactly what occured.
i have been warned by 3 galvanizing shops of this concern so, for these reasons, i do not recommend galvanizing a frame.
if someone else wants to recommend the process that is fine, i don't.

 

[crushers]

it is the customers money that is being spent. He has a budget that we are trying to work with.

so far, not in the original budget
Rad being recored to a 4 core
The extra work to the fiberglass body
The PC of the diffs, rear springs and all attachment points
all brake lines and rear towers

 

[Dougal]

I did not realize your desire for the old 40s, I might have misjudged you.

I have always liked the 40's and know many people that own them. But they are a vehicle that unfortunately doesn't fit with my work or lifestyle, so I can't realistically own one.

But I have helped turbocharge and improve scores of them.

 

[crushers]

front and rear diffs stripped and ready for sand blasting and PC ...

 

[crushers]

shackles broke down and ready
rear cross braces ready
fairlead ready

the parts were dropped off today
the frame pieces are back in the shop all blasted and ready for reassembly.

moving ahead.

 

[crushers]

the front springs were POR15 coated not long ago.
when pealing the vinyl strips off the POR15 came with it...

anyone know this CruiserChick?

 

[Henry James the 47th]

galvanizing is for bridges and Rovers.
galvanized frames are a bugger to work with.
galvanizing can twist frames since the frame will be acid dipped then into the galvanizing solution and heated to 850 degrees. this heat "relaxes" the frame and it can twist during this time.
The BJ70 worktruck in the other thread had it's frame galvanized. the truck is also sitting crooked, the frame is suspect of being twisted. once the body is removed then we will measure and find out exactly what occured.
i have been warned by 3 galvanizing shops of this concern so, for these reasons, i do not recommend galvanizing a frame.
if someone else wants to recommend the process that is fine, i don't.

interesting. I have heard about the issue with heat, however I thought that the concern was mostly with sheet metal body panels and such. And come to think of it, weren't Chevy trucks in the 1988~1990 time frame or thereabouts done with galvanized hood and fenders? While the paint won't stick to them they seem to have figured out how to do it without warping the metal.

I can imagine doing later welding work to a galvanized part might prove troublesome.