M1A1cruiser
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BJ40 resto - "let it begin (again?!?)" (1 Viewer)
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M1A1cruiser
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- #22
I still have much to learn about *electricity* generally, and as applied to specific situations, but I know a TON more about this vehicle and its wiring harness, and what it takes to make all the parts click and flash and turn in unison than I did a month ago.
It's good work if you can just accept your own obsessive compulsiveness!!
More soon. I'm happy to answer questions, although anything I know I've learned from someone - probably someone here on 'MUD'.
Thanks to all of them.
It's good work if you can just accept your own obsessive compulsiveness!!
More soon. I'm happy to answer questions, although anything I know I've learned from someone - probably someone here on 'MUD'.
Thanks to all of them.
M1A1cruiser
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- #23
Lots and lots and lots of wiring - and everything connected to the wiring (good excuse to get new turn signals and etc....)
Many thanks to @Coolerman, @bj40green, @lostmarbles, @ToyotaMatt, @offkilter, @crawlin cruiser, @Aloha Jen
A couple pics.
ALL NEW WIRES and TERMINALS and CONNECTORS
It will be a shame to wrap all this up.... haha
That last picture shows a real oddity though, and something that bothered me until Rudy and Mark were able to point me in the right direction.
On the wiring diagram there's a red wire that goes into the DIMMER S/W (84310-60072). That red wire provides power to the HI FLASH circuit to flash the high beams even when the headlights are off. The challenge was that I didn't see where on the DIMMER S/W, pigtail, side to hook the red wire; If indeed the W/B is a ground, there isn't a terminal to hook the R wire to. All the other wires (like in most of the rest of the harness) matched as the circuit transitioned from the harness to a switch or lamp or whatever. BUT, in this case, there is a W/B wire that feeds the power to the switch. Why in the WORLD Toyota decided to use the ground wire color (W/B) to feed 12V(+) power TO a switch is beyond me. But, as you can see, I hooked it up, and it all works as designed... so clearly that's where the red wire goes in.
The other thing that I really worked on as an element of this part of the build was the glow controller (28550-57010). The 12V version is kinda hard to come by - in the US anyway, somewhat available in CA and AU but still not really easy to get. So, with a BUNCH of help and detail, and pics from Tom I managed to reconstruct a 12V version from a 24V shell. It seems like the resistance on mine isn't *quite* right yet.... glows too quickly... I'll maybe try another loop of 15ga wire, or maybe try 14ga wire (maybe something has changed in the quality of the resistance wire in the intervening years....?), to get a good ~15 seconds of power to the plugs before reaching "glow" in the little window. More to follow on that.
I'll do a post - and maybe a thread in the diesel section - for those who might want the details to this really cool (and did I say mostly unavailable?!?) little feature of the oil burners.
The wiring harness has been the better part of two months to rebuild, but it'll last *at least* another 40 years.
More when I get a chance.
Thank you again to all those here, and offline, who are willing to share their expertise and dedication to these vehicles so that more of us can learn.
Many thanks to @Coolerman, @bj40green, @lostmarbles, @ToyotaMatt, @offkilter, @crawlin cruiser, @Aloha Jen
A couple pics.
ALL NEW WIRES and TERMINALS and CONNECTORS
It will be a shame to wrap all this up.... haha
That last picture shows a real oddity though, and something that bothered me until Rudy and Mark were able to point me in the right direction.
On the wiring diagram there's a red wire that goes into the DIMMER S/W (84310-60072). That red wire provides power to the HI FLASH circuit to flash the high beams even when the headlights are off. The challenge was that I didn't see where on the DIMMER S/W, pigtail, side to hook the red wire; If indeed the W/B is a ground, there isn't a terminal to hook the R wire to. All the other wires (like in most of the rest of the harness) matched as the circuit transitioned from the harness to a switch or lamp or whatever. BUT, in this case, there is a W/B wire that feeds the power to the switch. Why in the WORLD Toyota decided to use the ground wire color (W/B) to feed 12V(+) power TO a switch is beyond me. But, as you can see, I hooked it up, and it all works as designed... so clearly that's where the red wire goes in.
The other thing that I really worked on as an element of this part of the build was the glow controller (28550-57010). The 12V version is kinda hard to come by - in the US anyway, somewhat available in CA and AU but still not really easy to get. So, with a BUNCH of help and detail, and pics from Tom I managed to reconstruct a 12V version from a 24V shell. It seems like the resistance on mine isn't *quite* right yet.... glows too quickly... I'll maybe try another loop of 15ga wire, or maybe try 14ga wire (maybe something has changed in the quality of the resistance wire in the intervening years....?), to get a good ~15 seconds of power to the plugs before reaching "glow" in the little window. More to follow on that.
I'll do a post - and maybe a thread in the diesel section - for those who might want the details to this really cool (and did I say mostly unavailable?!?) little feature of the oil burners.
The wiring harness has been the better part of two months to rebuild, but it'll last *at least* another 40 years.
More when I get a chance.
Thank you again to all those here, and offline, who are willing to share their expertise and dedication to these vehicles so that more of us can learn.
All your Wiring & Connectors in above photos look nothing less then
@Coolerman quality level end product results ........
your 9/83-10/85 Last Model Revision Updated KOITO tail Lamps assy's
with the much needed rear sockets facing Vulcanized EPDM rubber Boots
water proof design feature and Subsequent OEM Parts maker SUMITOMO
Fully o-ring sealed water proof round style connectors we never saw here in
the USA are simply stunning UNICORN's !
keep up the Factory Focus Point Mind Set Approach work ..
kindly matt ....
M1A1cruiser
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More body work.
It's one thing to buy new metal (which I've done my fair share of) and even that has its challenges of aligning seams, ensuring proper fit, losing some of the factory lines (e.g. at the joint between the b-pillar and the rear quarter....). But it's something else entirely to try and recover existing stuff.
No rust (really) on the hood, so it's pretty much a no-brainer to use it. But of-course.... there was plenty of bondo and BULL$#!T PO modifications: someone had moved the hood hold-down latches back a couple of inches (and closed up the original holes), also removed the windshield hold-downs (and closed up the original holes). So there was plenty of me 're-opening' the original locations, welding up the 'wrong' ones, and smoothing all out. I'll skip all those pictures.
Getting down to metal.
Paint, bondo, primer, original color, original primer, metal...
Strip, strip, strip....
It's one thing to buy new metal (which I've done my fair share of) and even that has its challenges of aligning seams, ensuring proper fit, losing some of the factory lines (e.g. at the joint between the b-pillar and the rear quarter....). But it's something else entirely to try and recover existing stuff.
No rust (really) on the hood, so it's pretty much a no-brainer to use it. But of-course.... there was plenty of bondo and BULL$#!T PO modifications: someone had moved the hood hold-down latches back a couple of inches (and closed up the original holes), also removed the windshield hold-downs (and closed up the original holes). So there was plenty of me 're-opening' the original locations, welding up the 'wrong' ones, and smoothing all out. I'll skip all those pictures.
Getting down to metal.
Paint, bondo, primer, original color, original primer, metal...
Strip, strip, strip....
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M1A1cruiser
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I'll also omit most of the pictures of shaping out little dings, skim coating weld grinds, prepping for primer, etc., etc., etc.
After the first couple coats of epoxy primer I was initially pretty enthused.
Yeah, yeah, my sealant around the captured nuts is crap... but gimme a break, it's the underside of the hood. haha.
After the first couple coats of epoxy primer I was initially pretty enthused.
Yeah, yeah, my sealant around the captured nuts is crap... but gimme a break, it's the underside of the hood. haha.
M1A1cruiser
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But, once those coats dried, it became apparent that I didn't have the topside of the hood as smooth as I'd have liked.
You can see where there were bits of existing paint still under there, and also the areas that have spot-applications of spray filler or another primer where repairs were made and I wanted to at least cover the bare metal until I could get the epoxy primer on.
You can see where there were bits of existing paint still under there, and also the areas that have spot-applications of spray filler or another primer where repairs were made and I wanted to at least cover the bare metal until I could get the epoxy primer on.
M1A1cruiser
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So....... let's get to wet sanding.
I tell my wife (and myself.... to some degree) that I'm not making a show car. Yes, I want it to look nice, but I intend to drive it and get it muddy and bounce it along rutted trails and etc.
But I can't imagine staring out over a hood that has imperfections in it *because* of something that I've done (or not done). I won't tolerate my laziness, or lack of attention, to be a flaw. So.... yup, I am wet sanding starting at 400 and working up (down?) to 800.
I tell my wife (and myself.... to some degree) that I'm not making a show car. Yes, I want it to look nice, but I intend to drive it and get it muddy and bounce it along rutted trails and etc.
But I can't imagine staring out over a hood that has imperfections in it *because* of something that I've done (or not done). I won't tolerate my laziness, or lack of attention, to be a flaw. So.... yup, I am wet sanding starting at 400 and working up (down?) to 800.
M1A1cruiser
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I figure, if I can get the primer to look like this....
... I should be able to be happy once I get some color down.
After that rinse, above, I'll take it back in, compressed air to get all the water out of the little seams/bolt holes, wipe dry, mild cleaner/degreaser all over to make sure my hands don't transfer finger prints, air dry again, and add one more coat of epoxy primer.
Then will come some urethane primer/surfacer to ensure any remaining paint ridges (I can't F'ing imagine there would be any after spending four hours wet-sanding.... but I've come this far!!) are smoothed out. The urethane primer will get a 1000 grit smoothing, then.... maybe....maybe.... if I'm happy with the surface we can shoot some Toyota 857 Medium Blue this weekend???
If all goes well, I will then put the hood away for months and months while I finish the rest of the body, swap in a 5-speed, tinker with the old B engine, etc. Yeah, I can feel the risk of paining a part and then letting it sit. But I also figured the hood is a good place to start/practice all this stuff. So, we'll see!!
... I should be able to be happy once I get some color down.
After that rinse, above, I'll take it back in, compressed air to get all the water out of the little seams/bolt holes, wipe dry, mild cleaner/degreaser all over to make sure my hands don't transfer finger prints, air dry again, and add one more coat of epoxy primer.
Then will come some urethane primer/surfacer to ensure any remaining paint ridges (I can't F'ing imagine there would be any after spending four hours wet-sanding.... but I've come this far!!) are smoothed out. The urethane primer will get a 1000 grit smoothing, then.... maybe....maybe.... if I'm happy with the surface we can shoot some Toyota 857 Medium Blue this weekend???
If all goes well, I will then put the hood away for months and months while I finish the rest of the body, swap in a 5-speed, tinker with the old B engine, etc. Yeah, I can feel the risk of paining a part and then letting it sit. But I also figured the hood is a good place to start/practice all this stuff. So, we'll see!!
There is no way back now, can’t have the rest Looking shabby with that nice hood.
M1A1cruiser
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There is no way back now, can’t have the rest Looking shabby with that nice hood.
@waiting for time, having seen what you can do for a hood, I should hardly have even posted being able to paint one. haha!!
Mine is still in the works, no where near paint yet.
M1A1cruiser
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Base coat. Clear coat will go on in an hour or so....
It's not perfect - despite my thinking that it was after adding a urethane surfacer and block sanding - but it's also NOT covered with an eighth of an inch of bondo and some un-Toyota red lacquer anymore. Also, I'm a severe amateur so.... yeah, I'm almost happy with it.
It's not perfect - despite my thinking that it was after adding a urethane surfacer and block sanding - but it's also NOT covered with an eighth of an inch of bondo and some un-Toyota red lacquer anymore. Also, I'm a severe amateur so.... yeah, I'm almost happy with it.
M1A1cruiser
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I am going to like 857....
A gnat landed in my clear coat (fished him out with a dental pick that comes in handy in the tool box more often than one would think) and there's some dust in there (I mean, hell... it's my garage on a windy afternoon!), but I suspect it will buff up just fine. There was a little orange peel early on, but I pushed the fluid up a little and it seems to be leveling pretty well. For my first real paint, I'm pretty happy so far.
A gnat landed in my clear coat (fished him out with a dental pick that comes in handy in the tool box more often than one would think) and there's some dust in there (I mean, hell... it's my garage on a windy afternoon!), but I suspect it will buff up just fine. There was a little orange peel early on, but I pushed the fluid up a little and it seems to be leveling pretty well. For my first real paint, I'm pretty happy so far.
M1A1cruiser
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Paused from body work to continue tearing down.
It is apart as can possibly go; the frame is sitting on a set of dollies so I can roll it around the garage and into the drive for pressure wash, sand blast, etc.
This is one of the many fun things I found when getting all the way down to this point.
Clearly, new motor mounts are in order! HAHA.
But here's the question... I don't know if the motor mount let go *because* of the rounded out frame-side, or if this oval is caused by the broken mount shaking around for who-knows-how-long:
Regardless of *why*, I think this needs to remedied.
I'm thinking of cutting out a section of the frame-side mount. I'll cut out a square ~2.25" across, keeping the radius where the mount is bent from the factory. Drill a hole in a piece of 1/4" sheet steel and weld it back in, so that the raised ring on the new motor mount seats properly into the frame-mount. [yes, I'll probably 'v' the steel a bit at the butt. yes, I have a 220V welder. I know it's kinda crucial that this parts' structural integrity is intact] I don't really want to remove the entire mount from the frame...
Always open to opinions. This thread is a bit of documentation for me, and a bit of questions where I'm looking for advice.
Thanks,
Trav.-
P.S.
I was already planning on replacing the springs, but this kinda sealed the deal.
It is apart as can possibly go; the frame is sitting on a set of dollies so I can roll it around the garage and into the drive for pressure wash, sand blast, etc.
This is one of the many fun things I found when getting all the way down to this point.
Clearly, new motor mounts are in order! HAHA.
But here's the question... I don't know if the motor mount let go *because* of the rounded out frame-side, or if this oval is caused by the broken mount shaking around for who-knows-how-long:
Regardless of *why*, I think this needs to remedied.
I'm thinking of cutting out a section of the frame-side mount. I'll cut out a square ~2.25" across, keeping the radius where the mount is bent from the factory. Drill a hole in a piece of 1/4" sheet steel and weld it back in, so that the raised ring on the new motor mount seats properly into the frame-mount. [yes, I'll probably 'v' the steel a bit at the butt. yes, I have a 220V welder. I know it's kinda crucial that this parts' structural integrity is intact] I don't really want to remove the entire mount from the frame...
Always open to opinions. This thread is a bit of documentation for me, and a bit of questions where I'm looking for advice.
Thanks,
Trav.-
P.S.
I was already planning on replacing the springs, but this kinda sealed the deal.
M1A1cruiser
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- #36
Frame is out at the sandblaster, so I figured, "I'll just knock the stuff of the axle housings and give them a couple coats of paint, so when the frame gets back I'll be ready to reassemble"
HAHAHAHA 
If you've got kids you've probably read the "if you give a mouse a cookie..." book where one thing leads to another, leads to another. Well, that was me this weekend.
I didn't really want to tear the knuckles down to paint the axle housing, because I'd just rebuilt them when applying the disc brakes. BUT.... "hey, it would be easier to get this grime off the axle with the diff out, but I can't take the diff out with the axles in there,..." You see where this is going.
Needless to say, the axles are on the floor, the diff is on the work bench, the housing has been pressure washed inside and out and wire-brushed to within an inch of its life!
Also, WHAT-THE-EVER-LIVING-F.... is this goop in my axle and all over the differential. I mean, I know what it is - grease and gear oil mixed thoroughly and whipped to a froth and then allowed to "dry" and stick and infiltrate *everything*. It was a god-awful mess in there. And *nothing* would break that stuff down. So, scrub, scrub, wipe, scrub, scour, brush, pick, wash, brush,... it was awful. I'm afraid to open the rear axle.
All cleaned up now though. Should I leave the axle in "chrome"? ha!
HAHAHAHA
If you've got kids you've probably read the "if you give a mouse a cookie..." book where one thing leads to another, leads to another. Well, that was me this weekend.
I didn't really want to tear the knuckles down to paint the axle housing, because I'd just rebuilt them when applying the disc brakes. BUT.... "hey, it would be easier to get this grime off the axle with the diff out, but I can't take the diff out with the axles in there,..." You see where this is going.
Needless to say, the axles are on the floor, the diff is on the work bench, the housing has been pressure washed inside and out and wire-brushed to within an inch of its life!
Also, WHAT-THE-EVER-LIVING-F.... is this goop in my axle and all over the differential. I mean, I know what it is - grease and gear oil mixed thoroughly and whipped to a froth and then allowed to "dry" and stick and infiltrate *everything*. It was a god-awful mess in there. And *nothing* would break that stuff down. So, scrub, scrub, wipe, scrub, scour, brush, pick, wash, brush,... it was awful. I'm afraid to open the rear axle.
All cleaned up now though. Should I leave the axle in "chrome"? ha!
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M1A1cruiser
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Christmas break updates.
Not too many issues or problems - I like the chassis work much more than the body work.
Got the frame-side that holds the motor mount welded back in place - WITHOUT the rounded out hole, so will hopefully hold the engine more correctly.
A couple coats of epoxy primer on the frame and then a few coats of Eastwood chassis black - supposedly a lot of solids in this paint, so we'll see...
Yeah, it looks like there's some dust in the paint, but... it's the frame!!! Not too worried about it being perfectly smooth or shiny as long as it's sealed up properly to prevent rust and support the vehicle.
Not too many issues or problems - I like the chassis work much more than the body work.
Got the frame-side that holds the motor mount welded back in place - WITHOUT the rounded out hole, so will hopefully hold the engine more correctly.
A couple coats of epoxy primer on the frame and then a few coats of Eastwood chassis black - supposedly a lot of solids in this paint, so we'll see...
Yeah, it looks like there's some dust in the paint, but... it's the frame!!! Not too worried about it being perfectly smooth or shiny as long as it's sealed up properly to prevent rust and support the vehicle.
M1A1cruiser
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- #38
Christmas came early!! Thanks Santa (@cruiseroutfit )
She's back on her own four feet!!
Axles rebuilt. Center arm rebuilt, new tie rod ends, drag-link end rebuilt, wheel bearings, diffs are in spec (backlash and preload ok) and cleaned up inside and out. Rear brakes coming...
Then, time to get the drive-train back together. H55F, split-case rebuild, new clutch, etc... I expect all this to go OK. Gonna have to consider the transfer case shifter linkages given the longer 5-sp. I know I'll have to adjust the access cover in the body floor pan too - not too worried about that - I've already sourced the taller 'hump' so will just have to move the holes around a bit, and I know I'll have to address driveshaft lengths (maybe - probably - double cardan in the rear, if not both!).
She's back on her own four feet!!
Axles rebuilt. Center arm rebuilt, new tie rod ends, drag-link end rebuilt, wheel bearings, diffs are in spec (backlash and preload ok) and cleaned up inside and out. Rear brakes coming...
Then, time to get the drive-train back together. H55F, split-case rebuild, new clutch, etc... I expect all this to go OK. Gonna have to consider the transfer case shifter linkages given the longer 5-sp. I know I'll have to adjust the access cover in the body floor pan too - not too worried about that - I've already sourced the taller 'hump' so will just have to move the holes around a bit, and I know I'll have to address driveshaft lengths (maybe - probably - double cardan in the rear, if not both!).
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M1A1cruiser
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Some fits and starts getting the transfer case rebuilt and onto the H55F - my own fault, in too much of a hurry so skipped pressing in the front drive front output bearing before I attached the case face to the transmission. SO, ordered another gasket (thanks again to @cruiseroutfit for the great customer service and speedy shipping!!) and got it all bolted up
Also, pretty happy with the custom shifter removal SST (09305-50010) I made out of some old wrenches (details later...)
As I'm playing around with the trans/t-case shifters and making sure stuff turns that is supposed to turn, etc. I had the same problem that others have had. The H55F is stuck in gear. I couldn't tell what gear, but the shifter certainly wasn't going anywhere.
Again, this problem has already been documented on 'MUD', but I'm going to include what worked for me here in case just one person benefits.
The reverse shift fork had dropped forward (or 'down' because I had the transmission on its face to build the t-case a little easier). Simple fix. Remove the back-up switch, carefully use a screwdriver to slide the 'R' shift fork to the rear, and voila shifts fine!
Before (with reverse fork forward - while misaligned with shifter).
After, with the reverse fork back where it's supposed to be.
Now just waiting on some drum-brake shoe hold down pins (deeper drums/shoes on the BJs than what came with the kit) so I can get the rear brakes buttoned back up.
Happy New Year all.
Also, pretty happy with the custom shifter removal SST (09305-50010) I made out of some old wrenches (details later...)
As I'm playing around with the trans/t-case shifters and making sure stuff turns that is supposed to turn, etc. I had the same problem that others have had. The H55F is stuck in gear. I couldn't tell what gear, but the shifter certainly wasn't going anywhere.
Again, this problem has already been documented on 'MUD', but I'm going to include what worked for me here in case just one person benefits.
The reverse shift fork had dropped forward (or 'down' because I had the transmission on its face to build the t-case a little easier). Simple fix. Remove the back-up switch, carefully use a screwdriver to slide the 'R' shift fork to the rear, and voila shifts fine!
Before (with reverse fork forward - while misaligned with shifter).
After, with the reverse fork back where it's supposed to be.
Now just waiting on some drum-brake shoe hold down pins (deeper drums/shoes on the BJs than what came with the kit) so I can get the rear brakes buttoned back up.
Happy New Year all.
Thank you mate and likewise!
Is there any update on this?
Is there any update on this?
