Birfield repack & front rotors...done

[perk]

Thanks to all the mudders, and of course CDan, for sharing their experience and advice!!! Prior to this, my only experience was recently when I changed plugs, wires, cap&rotor, another ih8mud success story. For a mechanical newbie like myself, this was a substantial accomplishment.

The job took two long, messy days last weekend with the help of one dedicated friend. It included new trunion and wheel bearings, and new rotors and 100 pads. The only item I had to revisit was the DS flange and gasket. I didn't realize the gasket was fused to the flange when I removed it and outer circlip would not sit during reassembly because of double flange. The gasket did not want to come off, took alot of soaking and scraping. Other than that, it was just a methodical and careful process. Other PITA's included installing inner wheel bearing races (took ALOT of pounding) and getting the inner circlip to compress when reassembling the birfields and axle shafts. I don't see how this could have been done without three hands (one to steady clip, one to compress clip, and one to force axle shaft down). Getting the rotors on and off hubs was hard, how does one stablize rotor by themselves? Pads needed to be sanded about 1/16" in order to fit.

Test drive was a success. The new brakes work SO much better. I think I made the mistake of putting expensive diff oil in, as I'm thinking now that I should drain and refill soon to get out any leftover grease. But perhaps I don't need to, as there did not appear to be alot of contamination??

Now I will move on to replacing rear rotors and pads, and valve cover gasket. Than hopefully on to some overdue mods.

Perk

 

[tarbe]

Good work! I hope to follow in your footsteps soon!

 

[semlin]

congrats. feels good don't it.

 

[zipastro]

What do you mean you had to shave 1/16th off!!!!!!!!!!
I had to myself last week on the exact same job, was it just the inside pad? I myself cant tell a whole lot of diff with the 100 pads but I still need to do a system bleed\purge.

 

[zipastro]

I was off when I said I took an 1/8 off my inner. When I pulled it apart to recheck my preload I had a hard time telling the ground\unground pads apart. I would say 1/16 or less for sure. Do you notice any grabbing on a slow stop?

 

[perk]

I still have not decided if it is my imagination or not. Sometimes I feel like there is slight "grabbing" at the end of a slow stop. The feeling, if in fact present, is a very subtle grabbing and releasing in quick succession. I assume this is similar to what you mean by "grabbing"?

 

[NovaFZJ80]

perk,

So how many hrs did it take you to finally complete both sides....lookslike i will tackle this job...big difference from doing a tuneup to the birfs, i must say !!!!! hope i don't run into any major problems when i tackle this job when the weather gets warmer...

 

[OGBeno]

It took me two days as a newbie...I'd consider myself, previously, a tech. Now, I'm a tech with the ability to do a birf. job!!

Best.
-onur
Akron, OH

 

[elmariachi]

I think I made the mistake of putting expensive diff oil in, as I'm thinking now that I should drain and refill soon to get out any leftover grease. But perhaps I don't need to, as there did not appear to be alot of contamination??Perk

Remove the filler plug and stick your finger in (when its cool) and look at the fluid. Then decide if its contaminated enough to change again. On this new truck I just bought, I did the front rebuild and then changed the gear oil a second time after about 100 miles. It is nice and clean now, 300 miles later. Finishing that tedious job by yourself feels good doesn't it?

Jim

 

[perk]

I'd say a good 12 hrs/day, 24 total. A small chunck of this was taken while replacing the rotors and wheel bearings, as I did have difficulties removing and reinstalling rotors to hubs, and pounding in new inner races.

Yah Jim, that was one messy, tedious job that felt very good to finish.

It took me two days as a newbie...I'd consider myself, previously, a tech. Now, I'm a tech with the ability to do a birf. job!!

Best.
-onur
Akron, OH

I don't know Onur...I think servicing the birfields and associated items raised my mechanical bar considerably. It at least has given me more confidence (hopefully not misplaced) to take on other cruiser jobs. My personal bananna scale would go something like this...pre--tune up 0 , post-tune up 1/4 , post birfield, rotors, and wheel bearings

 

[Rookie2]

You all are just being modest. I'd say a successful birf and axle job puts you solidly in the 1 1/2 to 2 range.

 

[Mr. Toad]

Getting the rotors on and off hubs was hard, how does one stablize rotor by themselves?

If you mean "stabilize the rotor to remove it from the hub," then try this: Take off your spare. Lay it on the ground face down. Drop in the hub/rotor assembly, studs down into the rim's lug holes. Remove bolt from rear of rotor. Tire sidewall provides more than enough friction for this--it won't even budge.

 

[zipastro]

The feeling, if in fact present, is a very subtle grabbing and releasing in quick succession. I assume this is similar to what you mean by "grabbing"?

Exactly what I notice but it does not happen every time I stop??? I rpl the front rotors thinking they were warped but noticed it as soon as the new pad and rotors were set. I guess it must be the rears???

 

[perk]

Exactly what I notice but it does not happen every time I stop??? I rpl the front rotors thinking they were warped but noticed it as soon as the new pad and rotors were set. I guess it must be the rears???

Were yours grabbing before you replaced the front rotors and pads, or did this appear afterwards. I know some have experienced issues they thought were coming from the front only to discover it's the rears.
I'm going to be replacing rear rotors and pads as next service project and it sounds like you'll be doing the same soon. We'll have to post our findings after we do the rears.

Perk

 

[CruisinGA]

The gasket did not want to come off, took alot of soaking and scraping. Other than that, it was just a methodical and careful process. Other PITA's included installing inner wheel bearing races (took ALOT of pounding)
Perk

A SOFT wire wheel (no braided jobs etc) on a grinder makes really quick work of stuck gaskets...

I've gotten to the point where I will try for about 10 secs to get a gasket off with a scraper and it it is not cooperating the grinder comes out.

Use the old wheel bearing races and grind them down and add two notches into the 'thin" side. Use these to install the new races. The ground down ones can slip in and out easily, are just the right size for the new ones, and won't mar the surface of the race. The notches are to facilitate removal.


Congrats! Getting the first one under the belt is definatly a good feeling. After 4 or 5 they get really monotonous, but take about 1/2 the time.

 

[brownbear]

I had a friend give me a nice to know tip. So I will pass it on. when doing up the wheel bearing nuts(54mm) once the inner one is at its torque after preload. and it is time to do the star washer and outer nut. he told me put on the star, then bring the outer on in only finger tight. then bend the star in to the inner nut(one tab). then go ahead and torque the outer nut. if you just torque the outer nut with out bending first it could rip the little tit that sits in the groove. then the nuts have the possibilty of backing off. then you could loose a wheel.

now I don't know if others have heard this. but thats how I did it. as I did not want that little bit coming off with the torqueing. since that washer is pretty darn important. hate have your caliper holding on the wheel.

if anyone has a different theory pls let mt know. As I have only done the job once myself.