Birfeild Help

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Joined
Jun 13, 2012
Threads
62
Messages
112
Location
Forest Knolls, CA
I'm rebuilding the front hubs because I had diff oil leaking into the hub and a lot of play in the steering.

I replaced all the steering knuckle bearings and races. I used the old shims. I tightened the four top nuts and four bottom nuts pretty tight, but not to 71 ft/lbs. I had about 8-9 lbs on the right sided and when I moved the knuckle I could feel slight bumps on the bearings. The other side was about 7 lbs and smooth. I added another thin shim to the right side and it is a little smoother, but not smooth. It pulls about 7lbs now. I also feel a groove in the straight ahead position that I don't remember being there before I added the shim. I can move the knuckle back and forth 1/2 to 1 inch and feel increased resistance if I move it further in either direction. If I move it quickly, I don't notice the bump and it's smooth.

My questions: Should the knuckle move smoothly or should I feel some resistance on the bearing? When I added the shim, is it possible I damaged the top or bottom bearing when I beat off the knuckle arm? It was in the straight ahead position when if pounded it off and now I have a little play in this position.
 
...is it possible I damaged the top or bottom bearing when I beat off the knuckle arm? It was in the straight ahead position when if pounded it off and now I have a little play in this position.

Maybe. How vigorously did you beat it off?:lol:

I've always used a large screw driver to pry off the knuckle arm. If it won't budge I use a a stud coupler and a couple of bolts from the inside of the knuckle.
 
The symptoms sound like you have very old, high mileage, trunnion bearings. Very common problem with that, but you said you replaced ALL of the bearings, so heck if I know what's doing it. John
 
probably too much. i taped on the arm and had a screw driver on the other side. what is a stud coupler?

That doesn't sound excessive, but you might have to pull the knuckle off and look at the bearings and races.

A stud coupler looks like a piece of hex stock that is internally threaded.
 
all new bearings so i'm thinking i damaged them when i popped off the steering arm. will replace and see what happens.
 
Make sure that you didn't hit one of the old races out then accidently re install it.
 
How does the stud coupler work? Can I get one at oreilly's or napa?

The stud coupler works the same as the Toyota special service tool. You thread the studs in, insert it into the knuckle, screw the studs out so they push the bearing cap out from the inside. I'll try to take a picture of it later. The FSM shows the Toyota tool.

I got the stud coupler at an industrial supply store.
 
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The thread coupler works the same as the Toyota special service tool. You thread the studs in, insert it into the knuckle, screw the studs out so they push the bearing out from the inside. I'll try to take a picture of it later. The FSM shows the Toyota tool.

I got mine at an industrial supply store.

So it's basically a turn-buckle but used to push the races out? Interesting. I got mine out with a long drift but this sounds much easier.
 
1. Do you have your knuckle ball wipers etc tightened down? They should be off or loose to test the back and forth preload.

2. Did you in fact replace the trunion bearings (it seems so but just checking)

3. Are you doing this with the birfield and spindle installed?
 
The 1st pic is the $173 Toyota SST. The 2nd picture is the $8 DIY version.

P1.webp


P2.webp
 
Maybe that's the problem. I have the wipers on the backside installed and tightened. The spindle or axle is installed and the cover and the outside where the wheel bearings sit are installed and tight. I am at the point where I'm ready to install the brake rotors. I did replace the upr and lwr bearings and races.

When I do the test, should it should be assembled? Or do I just have the trunion bearings installed?

Thanks for the help. I think I'm getting close.

Tool is neat. I was wondering on how to get the steering arm off the top and the cover off the bottom (both secure w four studs) to add or remove shims wo pounding on it.
 
Just checked the instructions and it looks like I got ahead of myself. It looks like I'm going to be disassembling my project. Thanks.
 
Not the races, a stuck bearing cap.

Gotcha. I had to use the drift for that too on one side :meh:. The tool looks easy to make; I'll have to keep it in mind for next time.
 

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