Birf Job Time

[GXO]

Passenger side Birf is done!

Started at 8:30PM and started cleaning at 1:50AM.

5 hours isn't too horrible!

Driver and rear end are tomorrow...whew! :-*

 

[scottm]

I start next week, times two. My wife is thrilled I offered to pressure wash the garage floor afterward, she has a big party planned at the house. Are you using a solvent tank or just lots of towels?

 

[cruiserdan]

Scott,

Buy a box of nitrile gloves and a sheet of visquine (sp?).

Put the plastic down on the garage floor and park on top of it.

 

[PHAEDRUS]

then go to costco/sams club and buy the 10 pack of shop towells on a roll. you should go through about 6 of the 10.
Dave

 

[GXO]

I have a big oil tub that is about 6 inches deep and 2x3 feet, packages of shop towels, and brake cleaner and degreaser.

I put the tub under the knuckle while I tear down and dump the parts, grease, etc into the tub.

Then I take the tub outside and set it next to another identical tub (clean). Pull the keeper goodies out, clean over the dirty tub, then transfer to the clean tub.

Put clean tub under knuckle with the clean parts, assemble everything and the clean tub catches my whoopsies while I pump grease and pack bearings.

I shortcutted the process by not diconnecting the caliper or the steering arm.

I also found my races on the passenger side in perfect condition...the bearings had the wrong grease (they are Koyos though) so I packed the new ones and will clean the removed ones for next time.

Another HUGE tip:

Get a 2lbs brass hammer. You can whack the cone washers clean out with the hammer. You can also hold the inner axle in your hand and whack the inner race of the birf and have it out in 2 seconds. I used it often and it works VERY well.

I also bought a seal driver kit from harbor freight for 10 bucks, plastic blocks with an aluminum driver to push in seals...gets them just about right, then tapped the rest of the way in with the brass hammer.

The only time I used a drift was to pop the top bearing cap. Put the brass bar in through the bottom bearing hole and give it a good thunk.

I spent a majority of my time degreasing the insides. I didn't bother cleaning the outside too much as I don't mind a grease film on the outside of the housings, etc.

Fun fun!

 

[Beowulf]

Dan,
>> I also found my races on the passenger side in perfect condition... <<

Nevertheless, it is strongly recommended that bearings and races are replaced as a matched set.

-B-

 

[GXO]

A little history...I had the front end done by a local mechanic less than a few thousand miles ago. The drive side was done incorrectly and they used the wrong grease.

I am correcting this and the install on the passenger side is good to go. Tight, no play in the bearings, and all is seated and matched as planned.

Driver side is the monster...doing that later today.

 

[scottm]

Excellent tips, thanks! I have a one-lb brass hammer, an assortment of brass drifts, rubber dead-blow mallet, plastic and rubber tipped hammer, and keys to the machine shop across town if that's not enough. I bought the brass drift set for this job, but the 3/8" is apparently too short at 6", so I'll cut a piece of aluminum at the shop.

I'm not sure about all the gloves. I worked maintenance at a factory, we used to oil our hands with clean oil before a messy job, the crud didn't soak in that way. I use mineral oil these days. I guess I should buy a box and try it. The tubs are a great idea, I'll look around for some. I may just borrow my boss's parts cleaner, that might really help.

I have access to an inch-pound torque wrench, do I still need the fish scale?

What type of pics are still needed for the FAQ?

 

[IdahoDoug]

Best tip I have other than tools and such which have been covered is to preclean the truck as best you can before starting. I bought a couple cans of degreaser foaming stuff, then spent 15 minutes with various screwdrivers and scrapers removing the thick accumulation. Very messy, so consider location. Then, I drove to the car wash with old clothes on and reached under with the spray cans to soak the birf/brake/hub/axle areas on both sides. Used one can then read a magazine for 10 minutes. Sprayed off with car wash sprayer, then repeat. When I started disassembling, I was really happy I'd done this as there was only crud in the odd crevice here and there that were not reachable with the spray cleaner. Much more pleasant and I'll do it again for sure.

Other misc stuff:

I bought a few shims even though technically you can't change them. Then paid careful attention to which part of the inner axle seal is worn before pulling/damaging so I could adjust the shim accordingly. Mine was worn at the 12 o'clock position as I recall, so I shimmed in such a way to move it the opposite direction. I have no idea how this worked out, but will know if I changed things upon next repack. Obviously if I succeeded in getting the axle to run in the center of the seal, it will last markedly longer before needing replacement. The impact on knuckle bearing preload would be a separate thread, of course.

Don't miss the tip to keep the nuts on the cone washer studs while tapping on them. This way the cone washers don't disappear into the hinterlands of the garage when they pop. Actually good idea to back the nuts off so they're nearly flush with the stud tips for safer pounding on the combined surface of the nuts and studs anyhow.

Good time to do the 15 minute mod to elevate the front diff vent and remove that pesky one way valve that causes the grease contamination in the diff. While it's up in the air, you can also get a great look at the PHH.

I also did not remove the calipers - just used coat hanger wire to hang them from the spring coils.

Anyhow, best tip by far was to preclean the area as best you can with spray degreaser.

DougM

 

[scottm]

Will a 1-1/8" socket fit the 54mm hub nut? It should be a hair smaller than 54mm.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

You mean 2 1/8. The Craftsman 2 1/8 works great. The Harbour Freight one I tried several years ago did not-the outside was too big in diameter.

 

[scottm]

Oops, right 2-1/8" = 53.98mm

Craftsman's is 12 point, that worked out ok? Cheaper to buy Slee's 54mm, but I'm missing the 2-1/8" from my 3/4 drive set anyway.

 

[Pskhaat]

Did mine in liesure last night as well (passenger side), though it took me the better part of 7 friggin' hours last night. 4 hours on the driver side...

 

[Junk]

Dan, if you wouldn't mind writing it up, it would be appreciated. Need it for our faq's since the person that previously volunteered seems to have drifted off for a long nap.

 

[GXO]

Will do Junk.

I am in training all week so I will have lots of time

 

[IdahoDoug]

What's chances of a link to the 80s Cool tech page where Norm did a writeup with pics? I got some good mileage out of that one.

DougM

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Link to other good write-ups
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleRebuild.shtml

Go to the bottom of the page for links to other front end rebuilds

 

[Rookie2]

[quote author=Scott M. link=board=2;threadid=15979;start=msg153379#msg153379 date=1084149570]
Oops, right 2-1/8" = 53.98mm

Craftsman's is 12 point, that worked out ok? Cheaper to buy Slee's 54mm, but I'm missing the 2-1/8" from my 3/4 drive set anyway.
[/quote]

I think once you get up above 34mm or so, about all you'll find are 12 point sockets. They work fine, besides the lock nut is not really on that tight at 47 ft-lbs. At that big of a circle, there's plenty of contact surface, not like a 12 point, 12 mm where you have to be careful not to round the nut or bolt head off.


Rookie2

 

[scottm]

Thanks, I don't see many 6-pt sockets that big in the catalogs.
[quote author=Cruiserdrew link=board=2;threadid=15979;start=msg153302#msg153302 date=1084134106]The Harbour Freight one I tried several years ago did not-the outside was too big in diameter.[/quote]

Any idea how big was too big? We have a 3/4-drive set at work, but I'd hate to have to order one mid-project.

 

[Rookie2]

If I recall it was around 2.86 or 2.87". I had a Proto socket that was 2.89", and it didn't fit. It's suprising how much a couple of a hundreths of an inch is. The Craftsman at 2.85" (IIRC) does just fit.


Rookie2