Birf job odds and ends

rain76king

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So I have the front axle rebuild kit, checked the faqs a bunch of times and even ordered my birf video. One thing that I have not seen is how much bearing grease, how much moly grease, how much diff fluid and what are people running for diff fluid?
Also mentioned in the faq it says that if you have clicking you should switch birfs and that theres additional parts to use? What are they? I have clicking but it's more of a hollow clunking noise when my wheels are turned pretty good either way and I'm accelerating. Does this warrant switching sides?
Thanks!
Bob
 

landtank

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bearing grease, what ever it takes. You pack the gearings and fill the hub cavity.

moly grease, 2 tubes per side for a total of 4 tubes.

swapping sides, waste of time as far as I'm concerned.

diff fluid, I think it's 3 quarts but I fill from a 5 gallon pail so I'm not sure, check your FSM.

Everything should be in the kit, which one did you buy? I like the ones from cruiser outfitters.
 
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From what I recall, you want to fill the knuckles 3/4 full with moly (not completely full) before installing the spindle and dust shields. The FSM has pretty good instructions.

The diff takes either 2.5 or 2.6 qts. The FSM will tell you.
 

Sporin

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I'm ordering my kit from Kurt next week. Already have a case of fancy Amsoil grease tubes that were recommended in one of the threads. Will be reusing my Birfs since new ones are just too cost prohibitive. They are clicky at full lock but I'm hopeful they are in sound enough shape that a good clean and repack will get me by.
 
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I'm ordering my kit from Kurt next week. Already have a case of fancy Amsoil grease tubes that were recommended in one of the threads. Will be reusing my Birfs since new ones are just too cost prohibitive. They are clicky at full lock but I'm hopeful they are in sound enough shape that a good clean and repack will get me by.

Replace those things Dave! It's going to suck doing it on the trail when they go!
 

landtank

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If the kit came from Cdan then you are all set. Kurt, in my opinion, is the go to guy for this stuff. Skip the wheel bearings as they are cheaper at autozone.

I use Vavoline synthetic grease that is moly fortified. The tubes are for the standard size grease gun and it's 2 per side.

Clicking birfs at only full lock isn't too much to worry about. Mike's got a clicking birf and as far as I'm concerned :flipoff2: him.
 

rain76king

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Thanks for the info. I'll definately rip through the axle and brakes this weekend. I'm not sure I'll get to the lift though, seems like alot for a newb to jump into for a weekend.
It's killing me a little because I'll have 5 brand new 315/75's bfg km2's sitting in my driveway when I get home tomorrow!
 

landtank

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Thanks for the info. I'll definately rip through the axle and brakes this weekend. I'm not sure I'll get to the lift though, seems like alot for a newb to jump into for a weekend.
It's killing me a little because I'll have 5 brand new 315/75's bfg km2's sitting in my driveway when I get home tomorrow!

I can get through a full front axle job in 10 hours. That's with air tools and doing more than what the FAQ mentions.

I have to schedule a lift and axle job in a few weekends and it's a lot of work.

Especially with the trucks we see and stubborn fasteners.
 

rain76king

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I have been hitting everything with pb blaster for almost a week now! I do have access to a garage with air and lift so that will help out a bit. I'm sure the birf vid may help speed up the process. I'll have a friends help as well that happens to be a mechanic, although he knows nothing about this sort of axle set up.
I'm hoping to have the rig somewhat ready for the trail ride.
 

rain76king

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Putting it back didn't go so well, learned first hand to follow the FSM and not someone elses directions....DOH!
Thanks for the info Rick!
 

landtank

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no problem, glad I stopped by when I did. These trucks have now been in the hands of a few owners as well as mechanics. It really takes an experienced eye to see the small details that are out of place.
 

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