Biodiesel Piggie #2 Buildup (was Sad Sad day...) (1 Viewer)

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So I started pulling everything apart.. This is mostly for the guys on the 4BTswaps.com site but here is some of that stuff for anyone interested... Pretty neat how the cummins is built (again brilliantly simple -- and robust)...

Timing cover removed, some of the accessories & cam are gear driven, no timing belt required...
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the famous killer dowel pin, a non issue for this era engine luckily, it is not there. I often confused the KDP with the timing pin (the one that is broken) but they are different. The KDP is used to line up the front aluminum cover with block...

You can see in top right of second pic for placement. Also notice the lettering on the flywheel, how everything is lined up. The big gears (cam, fuel pump) spin twice that of the crank just like a distributor so they fire etc once for two rotations of the pistons...
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First pic shows the main injection pump with everything removed ready to be pulled off. You have to carefully measure the timing (via how far the pump is rotated) if you want to maintain your previouis timing (which was killer running I thought). Correct way to check timing with these is with a dial indicator which I might pick up some day to make sure previous timing was right. But again, it ran killer... Some minor advancement, with diesel fuel, increases power, but at the cost of extra NOx emissions, so I think I will leave at stock...

Second pic shows a piece of metal I made to measure distance of pump to the engine head to make sure pump is set back at same level to insure proper timing..

Third pic shows marks I also made on bottom adjustment...
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Next, I started tearing into the power steering pump. This one has 186K miles on it, was beatup a little from when I removed the motor from the bread truck, and replacements are about $80. It is a basic high flow high pressure saginaw pump, supposedly the most powerful one they make, perfect for a truck with hydroboost as this will have...

Here is a diagram from previous buildup of how hydroboost works. Much more powerful than vaccuum brakes, basically brakes are assisted by PS fluid...
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you have to use puller to get gear off, luckily I had this vibration dampener pulley lying around, worked great, and use a press of some sort to put on new pump...

Second pic is "exploded" version of all parts...
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Plan was to start welding up the motor mounts/ trans cross member etc to start placing motor. Before I did all that I started doing some testing on welding the porous cast metal, ugly welds, poor penetration as I did not preheat.. May try again with preheating or may send my manifold (need caps welded on the end of my chopped 6BT manifold, see previous pic) to be tig welded. Lesson is, pre heat and slowly cool cast iron welds..

third pic shows why I did all this other stuff instead of starting to fab up mounts, but hopefully this week I'll have the mounts, etc, all in place.. Already been through 11 lbs of wire!
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next, broke out the t case, a Dana 300 I bought bought off Pirate.. A lot of 4Wd guys have fancy aftermarket t cases etc. Most of the time it has been too rich for my blood but this is as close to it as it comes. Also all this aftermarket things are pretty neat I think, well build, shiny, strong :)

Specs are, HD output front from JB conversions, HD output rear from Tera Low (jeep company), and an advanced adapters clocking ring. True mutt of a t case, but cool features never the less and it is all clean.
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I need to order a 29 spline input gear for it so it will fit behind the NV5600. Stock on the dana 300 is 23 spline, but JB conversions makes that input gear so it will bolt up.. But that is a later thing and low $$ right now so I just pulled the input for now to get to bolt up for mock up... You have to pull the clocking ring (which is also super heavy duty) to get to input gear. Luckily it comes out without having to tear apart t case...
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here it is, all one piece with t case clocked level for now.... Have to do some trimming and custom mod with the twin stick levers to get it all working right with the big ass NV5600 which is causing some interference problems...
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Here you see the two big tabs stock on the Dana 300.. I had to cut the one closest to the trans to even get it on behind the NV5600. Going to have to grind more, you can see tab cut off, and marking of where I will need to cut so I can clock it lower. It is clocked so high and again NV5600 is so wide that the front driveshaft will hit the side of the trans...
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and that's about as far as I got on Friday... Went down today briefly to help a friend unload a Isuzu 4DB1T, which is another awesome engine that is shorter height-wise than a 4BT so it doesn't need a big lift to run... Details here... He has a 4BT from a industrial de icer and this motor here now. This summer or spring we are going to install into his FJ62...
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That is one sweet engine...cool updates man.
 
Sorry it has been so long guys, got a good long day/night in yesterday.. Still taking my sweet time, but I really wanted to make sure I got the motor placed right.. With this one, for some reason, it had a lot of factors/clearencing issues that I had to account for, one little error and it could mean a lot of work later...



First, wanted to get the t case ready for bolt in and proper clocking.. See pics above of the issue with the handle. I could have cut ugly and not clean with cut marks but wanted super clean.. So I had to take apart the t case to get the front cover off to clearance it correctly & cleanly... No big deal as I wanted to take apart, also see how hard it would be to install some 4:1 gears when I have the $$ to buy them.. Not too hard, Dana 300 pretty easy t case to break down...
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little surprise in the t case.. Metal flaking, nothing major but annoying enough.. Will probably require a complete rebuild even though it it has already been rebuilt... The white spots are flaking, the blue are traces of silicone...
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damon came down for the day, helped me get the motor in, do some cutting... Goal of the day was to figure out exactly where I wanted it and placed and if lucky start fabbing up the mounts.. Did not get that far...

Pulled the front clip to get it in easily.. It is so much easier to do this stuff with everything torn down versus most of the way torn down...
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