Pics from the install.
Any plans to get the oil filter relocated so you don't cover that
block with oil during every change?Thanks for the great writeup!
-Chaz
Big Gay 2F Build Tech (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Trollhole
- Start date
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Any plans to get the oil filter relocated so you don't cover that
block with oil during every change?Thanks for the great writeup!
-Chaz
- Thread starter
- #442
Any plans to get the oil filter relocated so you don't cover that
Thanks for the great writeup!
-Chaz
Thanks. Been hot as balls lately.
Only thing I looked at adding to the oil filter was a spacer for addition gauges. But I figured out a different way.
Would be cool if someone made a funnel that you could add to the filter housing with a drain like the FJC has.
Dude, I need an update!!!
Wouldn't be suprised if a clown got shot out of the exhaust on startup...
Funniest comment on the entire thread.
I look forward to seeing this in person. Let us know when we can see it at an UC meeting.
- Thread starter
- #445
No real update.
Exhaust is going to be a bitch. I really cannot start it without it on. I'd really like to fab my own down pipe but just haven't had the time. I am going to go pick up the battery box today for under the seat and the last of my battery parts have come in. Probably start tomorrow on getting fluid in the big gayness and work on hooking everything up over the weekend. If I get to that point to where I can crank it I'll make sure I have it live. Gonna be loud beacuse It will just have straight pipes.
Are you sure you want to risk the motor by cranking it without a muffler? With all the money you spent on this motor, I would hate for you to mess it up because you couldn't hear a problem while it was running.
Jeremy
Jeremy
Dude, clean out your pm box.
- Thread starter
- #448
Done.
Why not just use the y pipe off a 62. It's made of a decent steel (should last), probably isn't that restrictive to flow, and would make the job alot easier. From the collector back it would be just a single pipe of your choice in size and routing....
- Thread starter
- #450
What I have found from 62 is one pipe goes outside the frame and one inside. I need them both inside.
Got a little more done. Installed the belts and realized I was going to have an issue with where the engine temp gauge was. PS belt would have hit it. So I just swapped the sensor and the gauge. Works well.
Some of the TBI installs I have seen had a huge hole in the firewall for the harness. I ended up going with a 1 1/2 inch hole. I had to take the harness back off and route in through the glove box since the ECU connectors are to big for a hole this size. Also mounted the distribution block and MAP sensor.
Coolerman
SILVER Star
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- Jan 5, 2004
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- 6,773
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Every time I see a pic of that motor I get a big grin on my face. 
On startup, when this comes flying out the tailpipe, make sure to put it on the hood...
Your new mascot!
On startup, when this comes flying out the tailpipe, make sure to put it on the hood...
Your new mascot!
I bet whenever Marshal has rolled his forty out of his garage lately there's been a traffic jam in his street!
Southeast Overland
Get lost! Go explore!
When was the last time it was in his garage?
Favor to ask
TROLLHOLE , IF that is INDEED your REAL name, (which I sincerly doubt)!!!!!
Would you please take a pic . of both ends of your computer to TB loom so I can see how many and what color they are at the connectors??? please please pretty please (with clown sauce on it) ??? HMMMMMMMM, maybe that didn't come out quite right but I have a complete loom off an '89 blazer and need to cull out all the unused stuff (like Downey's booklet shows) but their colors are not all the same as mine, (sigh) heavy (SIGH)
TROLLHOLE , IF that is INDEED your REAL name, (which I sincerly doubt)!!!!!
Would you please take a pic . of both ends of your computer to TB loom so I can see how many and what color they are at the connectors??? please please pretty please (with clown sauce on it) ??? HMMMMMMMM, maybe that didn't come out quite right but I have a complete loom off an '89 blazer and need to cull out all the unused stuff (like Downey's booklet shows) but their colors are not all the same as mine, (sigh) heavy (SIGH)
- Thread starter
- #455
I will but mine is the same as the painless wiring harness. The Downey book is real good as it gives you the plug diagrams and tells you where they go.
- Thread starter
- #456
TBI wiring 101
Got a few questions just to make sure I'm not going to fry anything.
76 harness
Alt
I have a 1 wire alt and is already connected sraight to the battery. It's a 180 amp alt should I add a fuse or fuseable link?
White blue= Does this need to be connected to a switched/unswitched or not needed
White black= ground (also goes to the ground on the headlight and fan)
White Green= nothing important
Coil
Red wire= not needed went to starter
Black white= not needed
White black= ground (does this still need to be attached to a ground? Or is it just so the coil had a good ground?)
Yellow black (not shown)= oil pressure
Black yellow= positive switched. Correct?
I have no idea what this connection is for. It was attached to some sort of relay on the fender near the coil. Any idea if it's needed? (horn relay, emissions?)
Starter
Big black white wire= assuming this is the only wire I need for my gear redution starter beside the main power wires.
Main power to main harness
White with a fuseable link
Fan?
Got a few questions just to make sure I'm not going to fry anything.
76 harness
Alt
I have a 1 wire alt and is already connected sraight to the battery. It's a 180 amp alt should I add a fuse or fuseable link?
White blue= Does this need to be connected to a switched/unswitched or not needed
White black= ground (also goes to the ground on the headlight and fan)
White Green= nothing important
Coil
Red wire= not needed went to starter
Black white= not needed
White black= ground (does this still need to be attached to a ground? Or is it just so the coil had a good ground?)
Yellow black (not shown)= oil pressure
Black yellow= positive switched. Correct?
I have no idea what this connection is for. It was attached to some sort of relay on the fender near the coil. Any idea if it's needed? (horn relay, emissions?)
Starter
Big black white wire= assuming this is the only wire I need for my gear redution starter beside the main power wires.
Main power to main harness
White with a fuseable link
Fan?
Thanks Troll,....I guess I need to stop being paranoid, and just jump into the wiring,...What year is your TB and 'puter off?
Randy
Randy
Marshall,
Don't use a fusible link for the alt to battery connection - find a "Mega Fuse" for that. The OEM harness has no protection for this circuit so you don't even need it - just a safety thing. This way if the fuse blows it can easily be replaced - FL is a pain to change in the rain/dark. The FL on the OEM harness protects the fuse block.
Hope this helps.
Harry
Don't use a fusible link for the alt to battery connection - find a "Mega Fuse" for that. The OEM harness has no protection for this circuit so you don't even need it - just a safety thing. This way if the fuse blows it can easily be replaced - FL is a pain to change in the rain/dark. The FL on the OEM harness protects the fuse block.
Hope this helps.
Harry
- Thread starter
- #459
Can anyone confirm I need to reinstall the white blue wire that was installed to the alt main terminal back up? Is it needed?
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
Okay,
from memory, so I will do the best I can: Sorry for the ADD in my order:
Large white wire with fuseable link to battery positive.
Alternator:Large white wire with blue stripe: dont use it, since with the battery and alternator directly connected your ammeter is not going to work anyhow. Just tape it up into the harness.
Starter:Large black and white at starter is the only wire you need(starter solenoid trigger) other than the battery cable to + battery
White with black is a ground that is common with VR to make sure they on the same ground plane IIRC.
Alternator again: White with Green is field, so with a internally regulated alternator, you can tape it off. Although if you are running a CS130 style that needs switched 12v with a 3.4w bulb, find the other end(at Vr) and jumper that to a bulb and pick up 12v switched(black/yellow) at the fuseblock for the charge indicator light.
Coil: no idea what the red wire was for?
black and yellow was 12v ign switched for coil and ignitor. If the coil power is wired though the painless kit dont use it, otherwise it needs to go to the pink? wire on the GM coil.
black with white on coil. comes from starter when cranking to bypass ballast resistor, so you dont need it anymore.
Coil again: white with black at the coil mounting bracket doesnt ground coil, it grounds headlights and heater motor and possibly wiper IIRC. So, you should leave it, IIRC it has a larger ring terminal for the coil mounting bracket sized bolt.
plug with green and red, green with yellow? etc is horn relay.
plug with blue/white, blue/black and white/black is the heater blower motor.
from memory, so I will do the best I can: Sorry for the ADD in my order:
Large white wire with fuseable link to battery positive.
Alternator:Large white wire with blue stripe: dont use it, since with the battery and alternator directly connected your ammeter is not going to work anyhow. Just tape it up into the harness.
Starter:Large black and white at starter is the only wire you need(starter solenoid trigger) other than the battery cable to + battery
White with black is a ground that is common with VR to make sure they on the same ground plane IIRC.
Alternator again: White with Green is field, so with a internally regulated alternator, you can tape it off. Although if you are running a CS130 style that needs switched 12v with a 3.4w bulb, find the other end(at Vr) and jumper that to a bulb and pick up 12v switched(black/yellow) at the fuseblock for the charge indicator light.
Coil: no idea what the red wire was for?
black and yellow was 12v ign switched for coil and ignitor. If the coil power is wired though the painless kit dont use it, otherwise it needs to go to the pink? wire on the GM coil.
black with white on coil. comes from starter when cranking to bypass ballast resistor, so you dont need it anymore.
Coil again: white with black at the coil mounting bracket doesnt ground coil, it grounds headlights and heater motor and possibly wiper IIRC. So, you should leave it, IIRC it has a larger ring terminal for the coil mounting bracket sized bolt.
plug with green and red, green with yellow? etc is horn relay.
plug with blue/white, blue/black and white/black is the heater blower motor.