Big Gay 2F Build Tech (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Trollhole
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
great thread!!!!! what year /model donor computer TB and harness do you have? I'm in the process of doing the same F INJ swap. Mine is off a '89 S10 4x4 blazer 4.3 I'm a little hesitant on the harness as some of the colors vary from Downey's diagram, Did you buy the pre-made harness? I removed mine at a PICK YOUR PART and it was NOT fun, please write back Randy
- Thread starter
- #383
Didn't get done. Didn't source a bell housing until the sat before. Could of had it in in two days but after all the money I have spent I decided to take my time and do it right. Plus I'd hate to have had to break it in driving 4 hrs to Tellico. Looking forward to getting it done.
It was an Astro Van. Dunno what year but it was a later year. I ended buying a new harness. So much easier.
Today I work a little bit on the distributor and got the alt installed.
Had to weld the upper and lower shaft together. and then weld the breaker plate bearing together.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,207
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
Wished I'd know you were gonna do that. I woulda traded you a seized breaker plater for that (formerly) clean looking plate.
Keep up the nice pics.
Keep up the nice pics.
Thanks for replying
Yea, I considered buying the pre-made harness,..but I'm in the game now,..will be watching your build intently I loved the colors you picked, Randy maybe you could show pics. of your module locations etc.
Yea, I considered buying the pre-made harness,..but I'm in the game now,..will be watching your build intently I loved the colors you picked, Randy maybe you could show pics. of your module locations etc.
- Thread starter
- #386
Wished I'd know you were gonna do that. I woulda traded you a seized breaker plater for that (formerly) clean looking plate.
Keep up the nice pics.
It was pretty much seized. Still have all the weights springs and such if you want them. Free of course.
did you ever get the belhousing situation figured out... i have one sitting up north you could have for free thats in perfect shape. just let me know and i can help out...
- Thread starter
- #388
I ended up getting one from a UC member. Thanks though.
I decided it was not worth all the time and effort to swap in a newer tranny and t-case and have to deal with mounting, barking brake, and tub issues. Will be so much easier just going back to stock.
I decided it was not worth all the time and effort to swap in a newer tranny and t-case and have to deal with mounting, barking brake, and tub issues. Will be so much easier just going back to stock.
- Thread starter
- #389
Have done a little work after getting back from GSMTR. Seeing 40's that run has given me the bug again.
Got the alt painted and mocked up as well as the dist. Why did Toyota pick such a crappy color for distributor caps? Also ran into an issue using my PS mount. On my 76 2f I used the front pulley crank groove but with the later and this alt setup I need the second groove for the PS. Guess I'm calling Lance at IPOR and order the right one.
Also you can see what I did for the PCV hose and the fitting Ed gave me which was originally the heater outlet and is now the valve cover breather fitting under the air cleaner. Works well.
I also want to order a PS pump that has a key for the pulley and flare fitting. Anyone have a part # handy?
Got the alt painted and mocked up as well as the dist. Why did Toyota pick such a crappy color for distributor caps? Also ran into an issue using my PS mount. On my 76 2f I used the front pulley crank groove but with the later and this alt setup I need the second groove for the PS. Guess I'm calling Lance at IPOR and order the right one.
Also you can see what I did for the PCV hose and the fitting Ed gave me which was originally the heater outlet and is now the valve cover breather fitting under the air cleaner. Works well.
I also want to order a PS pump that has a key for the pulley and flare fitting. Anyone have a part # handy?
That might be an aftermarket dist. cap. The factory ones I've been getting are black/dark grey. I always thought the other one were ugly myself.
- Thread starter
- #391
It is. I got it for $10 bucks from an online place. Good stuff. It's the fist link in the Cruiser links thread in my sig. They have really good prices on some of most basic parts.
- Thread starter
- #392
OK it's on. I'm planning on dropping Big Gay in Monday. SO get ready for a weekend full of tech at a blistering pace. Goal is to get her in and possibly running.
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
I"M GOING TO BEAT YOU
Best of luck
Do we need to take time zones into account?
Best of luck to you both.
- Thread starter
- #395
I"M GOING TO BEAT YOU
Best of luck
I hope so.
LOL
- Thread starter
- #397
I have completely run myself into the ground over the past three days trying to get it all together and in. It just wasn't meant to be. I ended up forgetting the load leveler for the engine hoist and it being a 2hr round trip it just wasn't in the cards. Last thing I want to do is rush something and hose up a motor I've spent hundreds of hrs on and thousand of dollars. So it will have to wait until next Sun before it will go in. Good thing will be I'm planning on doing it live on the internet. Ought to be interesting. Thanks Steve and the Cuban who came over to give me a hand today.
Now onto some tech.
Sat I cleaned with Super Clean and pressure washed the t-case and tranny. Cap off a spay paint can works well for the top of the tranny. Woke up Sun and sprayed the entire thing with rust bullets. One good thing about that stuff is if there was any oil leaks there won't be any more unless it comes out of the front or rear output seals. That afternoon I spent helping Steve aka Juice Box aka Eventhough on Mud take his 2f apart. What was supposed to be a simple removal of the crank turned into an entire engine rebuild when we saw the cam was toast. (you can rear up more with his build in the 55 section https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pig-preservation-society/136996-resurection-beast-16.html )
Then I got my welder back and went to town on the PS pump bracket. It need the holes elongated so I could line up the pulley for the second grove on the crank pulley. Easy task when you have a welder and a horizontal band saw. Key to this deal is not dunk it in cold water after you weld it. It will only make it hard to drill and slot. Let it cool naturally. Lance at IPOR has a bracket I believe that will allow for the second or first groove.
It was a shame grinding away the powder coating and gay paint.
Sunday and what was supposed to be the install day. I'm sure Matt was relieved I will not be beating him.
Took a 3/8 inch pipe tap and tapped the hole where the vac advance was on the distributor. Found a nifty little plastic plug of a pressure washer I had. No drilling required for the tap. Managed to loose the o-ring on the distributor cap. Will have to order one. Will also need to bend up some hard lines to the cap to the back of the engine so I can add the breather tubes. I want this thing to look clean no hoses just flopping around. Everything has to look as if it was made like that from the factory. Minus the gay paint.
Found Top Dead center before putting the head back on. Marked a spot on the front pulley and timing cover. Dropped in the distributor and secured it pointing at #4 cylinder. Or #1 on the distributor cap.
Head torqued down. Went 60lbs the first round then to the final setting. I think it was 90 lbs.
Now on to putting the rocker back on. Remember that the center rod that runs all the way through them must be aligned as there is a flat spot ground on it where the retaining bolts go. If you don't you will find your self beating on the assembly with a dead blow and scratching your head as to why it won't go on. Forgot that from my last build.
One on and torqued down We set the valves a little bigger than stock tolerances since I'm doing this cold. I will say I'm a little concerned with how close the valves are to stacking (compressing all the way) That cam has some serious lift to it.
Took a 2f intake/exhaust gasket and bored two extra holes for the 3fe exhaust manifolds extra mounting holes. There should be no issues with leaking. When you bore the holes use a high speed drill press and make a smaller hole than you need. There is a sheet metal in the middle so if you bore with a big bit at a slow speed it will grab and screw up a $35 gasket. Ask me how I know. Did the final grinding with a dremel tool. Need to make sure it's completely flat with no extra material around the hole. Just for comparison there are 14 some odd bolts that hold the manifolds on. I think there are 8 for the early 2f heads.
Once all that was together we rolled it out to the cruiser. It was then we realized we had left the load leveler back at Steve's house. WHich would have been a 2hr round trip. So I decide not to install it today.
I did get a few more things done though. Got all the oil cooler hose installed and coil wires and spark plugs in. I ended up gapping them to .040 which is about .008 over stock. I'm going to start there. I'm hoping to find a big fat coil for this thing so I can see that gap getting bigger sometime in the future.
And it was a really nice day so I got the Big Gay out in the Sun. The paint really comes alive. Enjoy.
Now onto some tech.
Sat I cleaned with Super Clean and pressure washed the t-case and tranny. Cap off a spay paint can works well for the top of the tranny. Woke up Sun and sprayed the entire thing with rust bullets. One good thing about that stuff is if there was any oil leaks there won't be any more unless it comes out of the front or rear output seals. That afternoon I spent helping Steve aka Juice Box aka Eventhough on Mud take his 2f apart. What was supposed to be a simple removal of the crank turned into an entire engine rebuild when we saw the cam was toast. (you can rear up more with his build in the 55 section https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pig-preservation-society/136996-resurection-beast-16.html )
Then I got my welder back and went to town on the PS pump bracket. It need the holes elongated so I could line up the pulley for the second grove on the crank pulley. Easy task when you have a welder and a horizontal band saw. Key to this deal is not dunk it in cold water after you weld it. It will only make it hard to drill and slot. Let it cool naturally. Lance at IPOR has a bracket I believe that will allow for the second or first groove.
It was a shame grinding away the powder coating and gay paint.
Sunday and what was supposed to be the install day. I'm sure Matt was relieved I will not be beating him.
Took a 3/8 inch pipe tap and tapped the hole where the vac advance was on the distributor. Found a nifty little plastic plug of a pressure washer I had. No drilling required for the tap. Managed to loose the o-ring on the distributor cap. Will have to order one. Will also need to bend up some hard lines to the cap to the back of the engine so I can add the breather tubes. I want this thing to look clean no hoses just flopping around. Everything has to look as if it was made like that from the factory. Minus the gay paint.
Found Top Dead center before putting the head back on. Marked a spot on the front pulley and timing cover. Dropped in the distributor and secured it pointing at #4 cylinder. Or #1 on the distributor cap.
Head torqued down. Went 60lbs the first round then to the final setting. I think it was 90 lbs.
Now on to putting the rocker back on. Remember that the center rod that runs all the way through them must be aligned as there is a flat spot ground on it where the retaining bolts go. If you don't you will find your self beating on the assembly with a dead blow and scratching your head as to why it won't go on. Forgot that from my last build.
One on and torqued down We set the valves a little bigger than stock tolerances since I'm doing this cold. I will say I'm a little concerned with how close the valves are to stacking (compressing all the way) That cam has some serious lift to it.
Took a 2f intake/exhaust gasket and bored two extra holes for the 3fe exhaust manifolds extra mounting holes. There should be no issues with leaking. When you bore the holes use a high speed drill press and make a smaller hole than you need. There is a sheet metal in the middle so if you bore with a big bit at a slow speed it will grab and screw up a $35 gasket. Ask me how I know. Did the final grinding with a dremel tool. Need to make sure it's completely flat with no extra material around the hole. Just for comparison there are 14 some odd bolts that hold the manifolds on. I think there are 8 for the early 2f heads.
Once all that was together we rolled it out to the cruiser. It was then we realized we had left the load leveler back at Steve's house. WHich would have been a 2hr round trip. So I decide not to install it today.
I did get a few more things done though. Got all the oil cooler hose installed and coil wires and spark plugs in. I ended up gapping them to .040 which is about .008 over stock. I'm going to start there. I'm hoping to find a big fat coil for this thing so I can see that gap getting bigger sometime in the future.
And it was a really nice day so I got the Big Gay out in the Sun. The paint really comes alive. Enjoy.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #398
Marshall, I've really enjoyed this thread and I do not mean to imply that it is over by any means. The motor is waaaaaay cooler than I thought it might turn out.
Please, please get that FRAM oil filter off the MoFo before you even think about starting it....fram sucks(period).....Get a NAPA gold or OEM or anything but a FRAM!!!!
U GO BOY
Ed
Please, please get that FRAM oil filter off the MoFo before you even think about starting it....fram sucks(period).....Get a NAPA gold or OEM or anything but a FRAM!!!!
U GO BOY
Ed
- Thread starter
- #400
Marshall, I've really enjoyed this thread and I do not mean to imply that it is over by any means. The motor is waaaaaay cooler than I thought it might turn out.
Please, please get that FRAM oil filter off the MoFo before you even think about starting it....fram sucks(period).....Get a NAPA gold or OEM or anything but a FRAM!!!!
U GO BOY
Ed
Fram was just soemthing I had laying around have a couple OEMs that will be making an entrance soon. Thanks for the compliments. The pictures don't do this thing justice.
Oh and the part you sent me is on there. Painted it this morning. Blue and yellow. It's under the air cleaner from the breather to the air cleaner.