Big 3 (4) (5???) Cable Upgrade 2006 LC with pics, need some guidance (1 Viewer)

[TreatSmash]

Hey all, I am probably about to display some ignorance, I have read every thread in here that mentioned "alternator," "big 3," or "battery cables" and I still have some questions.

So I understand the big three are:
1. pos Battery to alternator
2. neg engine block to chassis
3. neg Battery to chassis

But the 2006 LC has:
1. neg battery to chassis
2. neg "hook on top of engine" to chassis
3. neg chassis cable into bundle to other "hook on top of engine"
4. neg battery to cable bundle running to back of engine
5. pos Alternator to fuse block (on battery) and fuse box (next to battery)

Okay so one at a time with pics and questions:

1. neg battery to chassis
- I got this one

2. neg cable from hook on top of engine to chassis
- I replaced this one but, is this the "block to chassis" ground? Because it looks like a "hook on top of engine to chassis" ground. On the far left of this pic is top of the engine and on the right it is grounded to the top of the drivers side wheel well.
- Pretty sure this is good to go as well, I just replaced the existing cable.

3. neg cable into bundle to other hook on top of engine to chassis
- ok so is this one another "block to chassis" ground that looks like a "hook on top of engine to chassis" ground?
- This one runs down from chassis where I am pointing, into a cable bundle and then I am pretty sure it emerges on the other side and connects to the other hook on top of my engine.
- For this one I think I am just going tom run a second cable and leave the original because I won't be able to dig it out of the cable bundle.
- Is this the correct way to do this?
- of course I made it more difficult by installing my differential breather right on top of it, not know I would need to get at it later.

4. neg battery to cable bundle running to back of engine
- ok so this one is where I get lost.
- The cable coming off the battery runs into a bundle that disappears behind the engine block. I cannot find where it terminates either by looking from the top or from the bottom of the vehicle.
- as you can see the cable is corroded and needs to be replaced, but I cannot even re-terminate it because there is no slack and it is too short.
- So where does this terminate? I assume the block somewhere?
- Is there somewhere else I can run a second cable and terminate it that will be as effective?
- any advice would be appreciated.

 

[TreatSmash]

con't
5. pos Alternator to fuse block (on battery) and fuse box (next to battery)
- ok so this one confusing too, there are two cable coming from the alternator. One goes directly to the battery and one goes into the fuse box between the battery and the master cylinder.
- should I just replace the cable running from alternator to battery? Maybe add a second cable?
- does this cable need a fuse? How big? I am installing a 320 amp alternator in two weeks.
- what about the cable going to the fuse box? Should I replace it?

Ok so that is everything.
Here is a pic of the whole engine bay for reference.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

First of all, I am not convinced that you need to "upgrade" any of the negative cables. if they are in good shape, they are doing their job and don't require beefing up!
As for the alternator, I'd leave the wire going to the fuse as it is. Then run a thicker wire to supply the current to the battery positive terminal directly. Not sure why you landed on a 320A alternator, but in any case you would want to make sure that your cable is capable of carrying that much amperage and also use an inline $320A fuse.
I am running a 250A alternator (which is a total overkill but the truck came with it and it works a treat!). Here's how my cable is run from alternator to battery. green box is the fuse.

 

[TreatSmash]

First of all, I am not convinced that you need to "upgrade" any of the negative cables. if they are in good shape, they are doing their job and don't require beefing up!
As for the alternator, I'd leave the wire going to the fuse as it is. Then run a thicker wire to supply the current to the battery positive terminal directly. Not sure why you landed on a 320A alternator, but in any case you would want to make sure that your cable is capable of carrying that much amperage and also use an inline $320A fuse.
I am running a 250A alternator (which is a total overkill but the truck came with it and it works a treat!). Here's how my cable is run from alternator to battery. green box is the fuse.
View attachment 3069691

Well I looked at several reputable high output alternator makers originally looking for a 250A and a couple were priced way too high ($950), the 320A one from Autotech Engineering was priced more moderately ($360). So after checking the internet to see if there was any danger to having more amps and being satisfied I went with that one.

I upgraded the grounds simply because that's what everyone, including everyone here on Ih8mudd, recommended. I am running 3 batteries, solar, and a fridge/freezer so figured better safe than sorry.

I am using 1/0 gauge cables. I know there is some math involved here, but many "experts" on YouTube are running many more amps (450+) with 2 or even 4 gauge.

So the cable currently runs from alternator to battery does not have a fuse correct? What is the reasoning for putting one on a 2nd cable? I feel like even if it blew the fuse it would still melt the original cable as well and possible start a fire. So should I remove the original cable?

3rd battery is a goal zero in the back charged directly from the starter battery.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Wow, looks like your electrical game is a step up than most I have seen! 320A alternator is probably still an overkill but I guess it is better than being underprovisioned.
And yes, I would remove the original non-fused alternator cable and replace it with the new bigger one with a good quality inline fuse

 

[TreatSmash]

Wow, looks like your electrical game is a step up than most I have seen! 320A alternator is probably still an overkill but I guess it is better than being underprovisioned.
And yes, I would remove the original non-fused alternator cable and replace it with the new bigger one with a good quality inline fuse

Haha I am just faking it! I have done it all myself though with the help of IH8MUDD and YouTube.

 

[Njck22]

The atlernator "cable" running to the fuse box is the alternator's control wires. not a battery cable.

 

[TreatSmash]

The atlernator "cable" running to the fuse box is the alternator's control wires. not a battery cable.

Thank you, good to know.

 

[hoser]

So the cable currently runs from alternator to battery does not have a fuse correct? What is the reasoning for putting one on a 2nd cable? I feel like even if it blew the fuse it would still melt the original cable as well and possible start a fire. So should I remove the original cable?

The 98-02 original charge cable is indeed fused at 140A. The '03+ has a fusible link. Rating unknown to me. I would leave the original cable alone and install an additional cable (fused).

 

[awesomeissquid]

The 98-02 original charge cable is indeed fused at 140A. The '03+ has a fusible link. Rating unknown to me. I would leave the original cable alone and install an additional cable (fused).

Side question, so for 98-02 an alternator rated to providing up to 140A can just use the original cable without need to upgrade to a larger size?

 

[hoser]

Years ago, when I did the 150A Sequoia alternator, I looked at the Sequoia's wiring diagram and it uses a 140A fuse for the charge cable..... same as my '98 LX470. So, I'd say it is fine for stock use.

However, I did add a 4 gauge charge cable with 150A fuse with a generic ANL fuse block (had on hand). One time, while doing a heavy winch pull (verge of stalling 12k winch) engine RPM was 2.5k or so, winch directly connected to starting battery..... I noticed afterwards, my ANL fuse holder was melted. Fuse was still intact... and connections were tight.

 

[TreatSmash]

The 98-02 original charge cable is indeed fused at 140A. The '03+ has a fusible link. Rating unknown to me. I would leave the original cable alone and install an additional cable (fused).

I'm not exactly sure what a fusible link is or where it physically is located. But assuming it's there and I find it, won't it be rated for much less than 320 amps? So if I keep the original cable and attach it to the new alternator. In theory it should trigger the fuse like immediately, right?

 

[Njck22]

Your alternator only produces amps to meet draw. Your alternator will likely never produce 320 amps, and will only get near there 200s when you’re doing a serious winch pull on a weak battery. At that point, yes your fusible link might go pop. Your alternator will also be incredibly hot at that point

 

[TreatSmash]

Your alternator only produces amps to meet draw. Your alternator will likely never produce 320 amps, and will only get near there 200s when you’re doing a serious winch pull on a weak battery. At that point, yes your fusible link might go pop. Your alternator will also be incredibly hot at that point

Ok but the OEM alternator is 130A, so isn't it likely that the fuse is 130A or less and that a 320A alternator will exceed that?

For record, my starter battery in addition to normal vehicle activities is charging a group 34 lead acid battery through a Redarc DC/DC charger that charges @ 25A and also charging a 1500w Goal Zero battery through their Link system which advertises 300-700 watts per hour.

 

[Njck22]

I would bypass the fusible link, but the current fuse will not instantly blow. In other words, you don’t have to do it right away. You would have to put a sustained 150+ amp load on your alternator, that would basically only ever happen when running a winch.