Best Welder (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 20, 2005
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Location
Monticello, UT
Well Hello,

I am in search of a welder and there are so many options that I want to find out what welder has worked best for everyone. My Bro has a cheap arc welder from Sears and a $4000 industrial Mig/Tig that he uses at work, but he is now 400 miles away so now I have am on the look out.

I have done a lot of work with 1/4" to 1/2" steel and am looking for something that will work well with that and still allow me not to burn 16 and 18 guage panels.

I have a limited budget but know that you often get what you pay for. I was hoping to stay below $600-800.

Thank you all and happy holidays!
 
Outfitting.....


"I have done a lot of work with 1/4" to 1/2" steel and am looking for something that will work well with that and still allow me not to burn 16 and 18 guage panels.

I have a limited budget but know that you often get what you pay for. I was hoping to stay below $600-800."

Your welder doesn't exist. TWO welders will do what you want, but not at those prices.

A Millermatic 251 costs about $1800. and will do all that you mentioned.

If you really have done what you say you've done then you should also know that what you ask doesn't exist.
 
And Brian is WELL within your budget!



I have a Millermatic 250 and it will do 1/2" in more than one pass.



GL

Ed
 
Degnol said:
And Brian is WELL within your budget!

I have a Millermatic 250 and it will do 1/2" in more than one pass.

GL

Ed

Try spray arc on 1/2" steel, Ed. With a 250 you've got enough amps for it.
 
cxs said:
An aside here:

Why doesn't anyone use oxyacetylene anymore?

I am certainly no expert with oxyacetylene (or even competent), but my feeling is that for almost everything you would want to weld, there are generally more suitable welding methods.

For 1/8" and up, and crash repair, mig is cheap, easy and fast.
For thin material, and metals other than steel, there is tig.
For really thick metal, there is stick.

Plus, I think mig really got a big push in car repair as a reaction to bodyshops welding unibody cars back together using coat hangers as welding rod with a torch.
 
Miller or Lincoln buzz box ~ $400

Any MIG machine in your price range isn't worth having.

O/A welding is impractical, too much warping in body work and not enought heat or penetration in big stuff.
 
haystax said:
Any MIG machine in your price range isn't worth having.
/
Well, there are USED machines in that price range that will... :D I might have $500 into my MillerMatic 35 that will do just about everything required. That includes a new regulator/flowmeter, bottle of gas, small spool of wire, liner, tips, nozzle and a new wirefeed drive wheel to replace one with a busted tooth.

Nick
 
honk said:
Try spray arc on 1/2" steel, Ed. With a 250 you've got enough amps for it.

Talk to me about "spray arc" and remember you are talking to a tooth mechanic, not a welder. The only time I encountered the term is when I hooked up a bottle of straight Argon and got an arc that was waaaay beyond my#9 shield.

I really want to know more about welding. The local Vo-Tech offers a welding
class that I really should take. I dig metalwork, although my machinery is bare.
Metal cutting bandsaw, 4 1/2" angle grinder and a belt sander. Plus a diegrinder and some carbide bits(stolen from the dental offoce) for grinding my Turkey@&@&@&@&.


Ed
 
Go used, as others have stated, a 250 + MIG would probably work for you quite well, or a big ass TIG machine. Welding supply stores often have rebuilt or decent used machines around, also steel suppliers often know of used equipment.
 
you can get a lincoln or miller or something in the 175 range.
they won't do your 1/2" single pass, but with some grinding and a couple
of passes, you could do it.
 
Steve C said:
I am certainly no expert with oxyacetylene (or even competent), but my feeling is that for almost everything you would want to weld, there are generally more suitable welding methods.

For 1/8" and up, and crash repair, mig is cheap, easy and fast.
For thin material, and metals other than steel, there is tig.
For really thick metal, there is stick.

Plus, I think mig really got a big push in car repair as a reaction to bodyshops welding unibody cars back together using coat hangers as welding rod with a torch.


I haven't welded in more years than I care to admit but picked up a OA setup for free this summer. I learned OA welding in aviation tech school but worked as a metal fabricator where I did all my welding with everything but OA. Maybe I'm recalling it too fondly but it seems to be to welding what a hand saw is to construction. Slower but just as good.
 
For standard automotive/offroad fab work, a 175-180 amp 220v MIG is perfect.

I've used a Hobart 180 and Lincoln Pro175 quite a bit.

Much prefer the Hobart.

I will hopefully have a Miller 175 tomorrow.
 
ya, im gonna agree with some of the guys and say that the welder u want in that price range dosnt exist unless u find a smoken deal on a used industrial mig but even that is gonna be friggen expensive prolly more than you r willing 2 spend
 
Another great one to check out is a Miller DVI (Dual voltage input) you can switch between 110 and 220, obviously the 110 can only weld so thick, however I think it's a 180 amp welder and rated at 3/8 single pass, I own one and love it!
 
Watch your local school auctions. I picked up my Millermatic 250 for under $100 at one and only had to add a bottle to get it running. It will do everything you are describing.

Ed
 
I'd look for a Hobart Handler series. I have a Handler 120 (which isn't made any more) and love it. I welded up a motorcycle stand with it and trust the welds completely. I think that the Handler 130 is now the smallest one that they offer.

Have fun!
 
OA can weld sheet metal panels just fine without excessive warping. I welded up all my patch panels with OA because my only other choices were stick and TIG welding and the the TIG shielding gas wasn't cutting it in the wind outdoors. You just have to minimize the heat input by making a lot of quick tack welds around the panel and then welding short segments and cooling the panel with a wet cloth in between welds.

OA is slow though.
 

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