Best way to cap AC lines to remove condenser? (2 Viewers)

[dranobob]

I am getting ready to pull my block and want to make my life easier by pulling the condenser. Anyone have recommendations on how to cap the lines? The engine will probably be out a month or longer depending on how much work my block needs and life happens so I want to properly cap them from moisture.

The truck has ~250k, should I plan to replace the receiver drier instead of trying to reuse it?

 

[bigredmachine]

your not going to be able to seal them up enough to keep out moisture, just tape the ends or use a small plastic bag to keep debris out of the lines. when you recharge the system youll be pulling a vacuum on the system and that will take care of the moisture that may be in from having the lines open

cant hurt to replace the reciever/dryer

 

[gummycarbs]

The truck has ~250k, should I plan to replace the receiver driver instead of trying to reuse it?

The dryer gets replaced every time the system is opened.

 

[dranobob]

your not going to be able to seal them up enough to keep out moisture, just tape the ends or use a small plastic bag to keep debris out of the lines. when you recharge the system youll be pulling a vacuum on the system and that will take care of the moisture that may be in from having the lines open

cant hurt to replace the reciever/dryer

awesome. The FSM is fairly vague on what they mean to "cap" with, so I figured I better ask. tape and plastic is easy enough!

 

[bigredmachine]

its really more to keep debris out of the line, whatever you have on hand should be fine

 

[canman]

Issue with opening the AC system for that length of time is that moisture will get into the compressor oil. With PAG oil, moisture creates acids which will wreak havoc. I would tape up any open lines really well. You will for sure need to replace the filter/drier. I would also replace the o-rings on any conns toons that were opened.

 

[3x4runner]

I am getting ready to pull my block and want to make my life easier by pulling the condenser. Anyone have recommendations on how to cap the lines? The engine will probably be out a month or longer depending on how much work my block needs and life happens so I want to properly cap them from moisture.

The truck has ~250k, should I plan to replace the receiver drier instead of trying to reuse it?

+1 on the cap-off; there is zero possibility of keeping MOISTURE out.
I use vinyl plugs of one type or another , or tape at worst, but the better you cap, the less likely to actaully shoot a line full of water when hosing off under hood.
Big risk is getting grit dirt or filth in there , but evacuation will take care of the water VAPOR that coated every internal surface moments after you opened the system.

I NEED ac and hate to re-building after repair ( mainly since I wont intentionally vent refrigerant out in air - Is a real mess and of course illegal.
Before starting I have the refriderant recovered at some shop first , another expense I'd rather not waste.

Freon sniffers are now pretty cheap , so maybe leak check your build before filling

Replace the Schrader valves. Replace the port caps.

As far as the receiver drier, IMO it would be fool hardy to NOT replace it .
they cost a few peanuts, it has a years-old filter inside and the desiccant is old and possibly degraded /saturated and ineffective.
Reuse is not worth the savings ...

Check those soft lines / hoses. Any hint of oil seeping out ( when oil seeps out, it will hold probably accumulate dirt at the guilty joint) from the crimps would cause me to toss the hose for a new one. I usually replace the COMPRESSOR OUTLET line as routine, since those lines see the highest pressure.
Again , often cheap part / worthy insurance.


I clean out the hard lines & soft with various/ any thing that would not leave reside; brake clean, even soap & water .
Surprised how much gunk comes out of old lines. Let the lines dry of course. Dont build an AC with a moist line.

Although pump-down evac should dry out the receiver , and new ones come capped under vacuum, I even bake my new ones a bit over 200 in a electric ( dry heat not nat gas with combustion moisture ) oven to be sure, but this is arguably useless ( but I do try to install it last , only open when ready and pump down ASAP.)
DONT over heat, there is paper & plastic ect inside.

One thing that drives me nuts is " how much oil & what condition is the system...? " oil gets contaminated over time and can make corrosive products.
Most of the system oil should stay in the compressor, but also some gets transported with refrigerant. Its probably impossible to remove , or even know how much oil migrated into the evaporator. Evaporators ( and condensors) can be relatively cheap too and if not hard to remove / replace, may help make a better operating & durable system.

You should drain the compressor oil too, collect / measure it the quantity to see how much comes out, but without dismantling it may be hard to empty completely.
The oil capacity should be in spec to avoid more problems than I care to write up - there is plenty info online.

Another step I take in a AC service to use a o-ring sealant on all the joints.
I like Refrigeration Technologies RT201B Nylog , its a stringy thick fluid compatible with all refrigerants ,
but most manuals would say use a drop of compressor oil.

Make sure no orings get nicked while building ( from burrs on tubes or fittings , or harsh handling) and I plan my work & go through a lot of clean gloves when assembling the lines to keep the joints scrupulously clean.

stay frosty

 

[rolliges]

Nothing better than cold A/C and a system done right!