Best Turbo for 3B Diesel...

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It looks like a T3. The bolt on compressor cover, the bolt on oil feed and the bolt on wastegate are the big clues.

The turboglide setup is the cleanest by a long shot. BTW you can simply unhook the water lines on the AXT. I block one port and leave the other blocked but unsealed so the air can expand and contract a little.

I originally contacted AXT about blocking off the Water ports and they told me it would ruin the turbo and certainly void the warrantee. They really did not want me to do that and because it was designed to use the water they were really concern about it, so I left them the way they are. Obviously I have not purchased an AXT is the last 5 years.

I will have to say that one of the quickest 70 series I have ever driven (stock with just a turbo added) is my 86' BJ70 and it has an AXT on it. I think Wayne and Brett would agree for some reason that BJ70 has some power behind it.

Cheers,

Michael
 
If I could pose a bit of a rudimentary question, what is all this about 3BII? Are there slightly different 3Bs running around?

(We now return to the educational discussion already in progress).

Yes, I have a very rare 1989 BJ70 Ragtop from Japan (JDM) and it happens to have this 3BII engine, first you notice it has a rotory pump, which changes up the thottle linkage, even though it still has a butterfly in the intake (very weird), and it also has a different bolt pattern on the exhaust manifold so if you want to bolt up a 13B-T manifold or 3B you can forget about it. Unless you make an adapter plate which Wayne Smith build, and I must say Wayne that is one elaborate hunk of steel. I was a little worried about taking it off, but it came off without to much hassle. Then as I found out earlier this week the 3BII also has a roller cam which explains why I have no access pannel to the lifter (which was also baffling me when I put the new turbo on it.

Think of the 3BII as typical Toyota upgrades, the best and last of the 3B (I only say best because Toyota usually only changes stuff on the engine to fix or improve on it). After the 3BII I am sure most of those changes were in the 14B and 15B engines.

The only odd engine in that line is the 13B-T, Ok most of you know by now I am not a fan because of my own issues I have had with one :eek:

Cheers,

Michael
 
Yes, I have a very rare 1989 BJ70 Ragtop from Japan (JDM) and it happens to have this 3BII engine, first you notice it has a rotory pump, which changes up the thottle linkage, even though it still has a butterfly in the intake (very weird), and it also has a different bolt pattern on the exhaust manifold so if you want to bolt up a 13B-T manifold or 3B you can forget about it.

The presence of a rotary injection pump doesn't automatically mean it's a 3BII though. I have a 3B with the rotary pump that's going into the FJ45LV and it took a 13B-T manifold just fine. My engine is a Japanese takeout from a Dyna I think.

You wouldn't have a spare throttle linkage for the rotary pump though would you?
 
it is a 3B II, there is a lot of differences between the 3B and the next generation besides the rotory pump...
 
and it also has a different bolt pattern on the exhaust manifold so if you want to bolt up a 13B-T manifold or 3B you can forget about it. Unless you make an adapter plate which Wayne Smith build, and I must say Wayne that is one elaborate hunk of steel.


You can get a 14B-T manifold that is a direct fit for the 3B II. Cost is about the same as the 13B-T unit.

I have one of those adaptors from wayne and you are right - its pretty cool. I need to put it to use.
 
The Toyota setup is very clean and if you can scavenge the parts from an old 13B-T you will have just about everything you need. But lets be real for a minute they still use this CT-26 to power the 1HD-FT the CT-26 was designed to work with engines up to 4.5L Pretty big for a little old 3.4L and why they put it on the 13B-T is a mistery unless it was the only one they had at the time. Even when it is mapped to the 3.4 it still leaves some turbo lag, and if you offroad a lot you will find it rarly get a chance to spin up. the factory one also uses water ports in addtion to the oil ports. Michael

Your assessment makes total sense. I would think the Toyota Engineers designed the CT-26 in 13BT trim with consideration to the DI engines characteristics. Therefore, with this turbo on the IDI 3B...it would feel just like a regular 3B till higher RPMs.

Nice comparo for people looking at different options.

Good data on the split between the two "B" lines in 1988.

Wayne...Arn't all JDM 3B's rotory pump?

gb
 
AFAIK and have seen, yes... it seems so Greg...

maybe the inline pump was installed in countries where the diesel...ain't the best?
 
Your assessment makes total sense. I would think the Toyota Engineers designed the CT-26 in 13BT trim with consideration to the DI engines characteristics. Therefore, with this turbo on the IDI 3B...it would feel just like a regular 3B till higher RPMs.

Just thinking out loud here....I don't feel like I need more power at low rpms, it is mainly highway and passing and things like that. That being said, I wonder if this option wouldn't be a good option for someone looking for the same help I am. Unless there are turbo options that provide boost through the whole rpm range.

Tim
 
Just thinking out loud here....I don't feel like I need more power at low rpms, it is mainly highway and passing and things like that. That being said, I wonder if this option wouldn't be a good option for someone looking for the same help I am. Unless there are turbo options that provide boost through the whole rpm range.

Tim

Anyturbo setup will allow you to pass easily. Crap i cn now pass going up hill.

In fifth gear flooring it from 45-50mph, i reach 10 psi (max) at around 2150 2200 rpm and it stays at 10psi up to....well until the valve are floating lol..

I've posted some video about this, maybe in my turbo built thread.
 
Just thinking out loud here....I don't feel like I need more power at low rpms, it is mainly highway and passing and things like that. That being said, I wonder if this option wouldn't be a good option for someone looking for the same help I am. Unless there are turbo options that provide boost through the whole rpm range.

Tim

I would have to say that the three diffent ones on this post all help with the top end and hyway speeds, but the Trubo-glide also helps more throught the whole range wich it what I was looking for on this one.
 
I originally contacted AXT about blocking off the Water ports and they told me it would ruin the turbo and certainly void the warrantee. They really did not want me to do that and because it was designed to use the water they were really concern about it, so I left them the way they are. Obviously I have not purchased an AXT is the last 5 years.

I will have to say that one of the quickest 70 series I have ever driven (stock with just a turbo added) is my 86' BJ70 and it has an AXT on it. I think Wayne and Brett would agree for some reason that BJ70 has some power behind it.

Cheers,

Michael

I've never run coolant lines on my T25 and haven't had any issues. You'll notice on the turboglide kits that the ports for water cooling are just blocked off.

Did you get any of your trucks dyno'd or take 0-100 times?

Regarding the CT26, toyota now use the smaller CT12B on the 15BT. That's the same turbo used on the 3 litre 1KZ-TE engines. Guess toyota also decided the CT26 wasn't a good match.
TOYOTA CT12B Turbo Turbocharger 15BT HIACE 17201-58040 su eBay.it Performance Tuning Parts, Car Tuning Styling, Cars, Parts Vehicles
 
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Regarding the CT26, toyota now use the smaller CT12B on the 15BT. That's the same turbo used on the 3 litre 1KZ-TE engines. Guess toyota also decided the CT26 wasn't a good match.

Seems like a dangerous statement to say they are the same between the KZ and 15BFTE engines considering the ct-26 had so many different applications from MR2 to HDJ-81. Each with different specs in the same housing. Wouldnt the KZ and 15B have different requirements for a turbo?

Assuming the external dimensions are smaller on the ct-12, how does it compare to the ct-26 regarding flow and how many variations are there?
 
Seems like a dangerous statement to say they are the same between the KZ and 15BFTE engines considering the ct-26 had so many different applications from MR2 to HDJ-81. Each with different specs in the same housing. Wouldnt the KZ and 15B have different requirements for a turbo?

Assuming the external dimensions are smaller on the ct-12, how does it compare to the ct-26 regarding flow and how many variations are there?

I've done some hunting on the CT12B turbos over the last few years (I wanted to fit one to my Isuzu) and could only find the one variant. Mellett and other places that sell aftermarket parts have only one size listing.
While the 15BT is a bigger engine than the 1KZ, it revs less and develops the same power (100kw) so you'd expect total airflow to be the same.

Sadly toyota don't publish any informtion on their turbos.
 
What turbo was used on the later L series engines ? Was it a ct-12 or ct-10?

CT20 on the 2.4L 2L. But Mellett also list a CT9. The CT9 was commonly found on camry diesels, I'm not sure of the engine code.
 
AFAIK and have seen, yes... it seems so Greg...

maybe the inline pump was installed in countries where the diesel...ain't the best?

I'm not sure if we have good or bad diesel ( anycase my opinion dosen't matter .. :) ) but down here, aren't much 3B with rotory pump .. most ( like 95%) are inline ..
 
A/R numbers?

Do any of you guys know the A/R ratings for any of these turbo's being discussed? I'd like to do my own build w/ a 13BT maniflold on my 3B. It seems hard to find turbo's with low A/R. I've read lower is better for a low RPM diesel so it'll produce boost earlier. .42 is about as low as I can find (that's cheap).

Thanks!
 
Do any of you guys know the A/R ratings for any of these turbo's being discussed? I'd like to do my own build w/ a 13BT maniflold on my 3B. It seems hard to find turbo's with low A/R. I've read lower is better for a low RPM diesel so it'll produce boost earlier. .42 is about as low as I can find (that's cheap).

Thanks!

The critical A/R is the one on the turbine (exhaust side), the A/R ratio cast into the aluminium compressor housing is the one most visible and least relevant.

The other point with A/R is that you need to combine it with the exhaust wheel diameter to equate it.
For example, the T25 with a 0.49 A/R turbine housing and a 51mm exhaust wheel spools at a similar point to a T3 with a 0.42 A/R turbine housing and 60mm exhaust wheel.
 
I've read lower is better for a low RPM diesel so it'll produce boost earlier. .42 is about as low as I can find (that's cheap).

Thanks!

IMOP it's pretty nice to have boost as soon as your engine reach the 1K rpm line .. l but how much boost and how much strees on your engine at lower rpm with lower oil press and water circulation .. ( due to the lower rpm ) in an engine that not been build to handle that kind of stress .. ?

and it let you out of chance to drive it at lower rpm without much boost ( stress ) on it ..

I'm pretty happy to have 5 -6 PSI @ 1600 rpm .. it allow me to drive my engine with virtualy no boost ( much less stress ) at lower rpm ..
 
I totally agree about the 13B-T or the 3B2 with the CT26 not producing any or enough boost off-roading especially at 2000 meters under 1100rpm and then after 1200 rpm I can get 8lbs boost. The CT26 is a great turbo for longetivity sake but has a poor AR ratio for the 13B-T ( cant even hear it spool up ) On a 1HD-T the CT26 works way better and even the untrained ear can hear it spool up and compress like it should work.
 

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