Got my hood bumpers from cruiser Dan. Less than 10 bones for the pair
Best Mods under $50... (2 Viewers)
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from the local "pick-a-part", I snipped a pair of dual filament light sockets from an infinti that fit in the front turn signal casing, for a mere $7.
I wanted the cruiser to have more visibility during the evening, hence the dual filament socket. I already installed hella headlamps, so I rigged the front turn signals to have a dual purpose: stationary parking lights & turn signals.
materials: 2 ft. of 18 gauge wire
installation time: 1.5 hrs
I wanted the cruiser to have more visibility during the evening, hence the dual filament socket. I already installed hella headlamps, so I rigged the front turn signals to have a dual purpose: stationary parking lights & turn signals.
materials: 2 ft. of 18 gauge wire
installation time: 1.5 hrs
Fix for the famous driver seat tear.
I went to a fabric store and purchased a patch for jeans (the ones mom used to patch my blue jeans with) Ironed it on the hole and it has lasted a year so far. Not the pretiest but functional.
I went to a fabric store and purchased a patch for jeans (the ones mom used to patch my blue jeans with) Ironed it on the hole and it has lasted a year so far. Not the pretiest but functional.
I found that a good tool spot is inside of the headlight washer reservoir, mine was already broken up pretty bad on the top so i just hack-sawed the rest out and it's workin out pretty good.
That fragile plastic clip that keeps the bonnet stay rod from rattling, replaced with a piece of steel bent to form a metal retaining spring....I will search for a pic.
Free mod.
Free mod.
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
I so need to do this and the wiper fix!! Do you have a part# for the brushes? Any chance you did a write up somewhere?
Pfft. That's not a horn. Air Horns of Texas 1510 Kit is a horn to get you noticed, but unless you get a damaged one for free like I did - it's not under $50! (linkys not working but google air horns of texas and find the 1510 sound...)
Now I just need to get the air on board to use the horn~!
I vote for the $5 for a can of paint to black out the grill...
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Using the door pin plastic bushings to replace the pin bushings on the gas pedal tower in the engine bay on the firewall. I replaced those and then got a washer that has the I.D. of the hole larger than the sleeve in the bushing in that same gas pedal tower. It took out all the slop in my pedal. Nice and crisp accelerations now. Before, because the bushings were worn, the bracket would twist and then the firewall would flex when the gas pedal was pushed. No more. Thank you Mark A. for that tid bit of knowledge.
Bought some body filler the other day to start the body work on my cruiser. Cost about 21 bux.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Need to do that. I have very very little surface rust and only a few little dings on the body. I just dont have a driveway to do it in
Is that bondo? I've never used it on doors or hoods or any panel that is large and potentially flexible. The slamming alone when you close it could crack the bondo... or so I've heard. I've either left it alone, or used fiberglass filler or just fiberglass resin. Maybe that's what you used - I can't tell from the picture.
This summer I got two sets of dual note horns from mid to late 1990s Camrys for $5 per pair. I already put one in my Matrix and it is LOUD (at least compared to the wimpy single-note factory horn it had). At the moment I've still got the dual note Hyundai Sonata horns, but the Camry horns will soon be going in. Maybe not as loud as the Texas 1510 air horns, but for $5, the Camry horns are a decent upgrade.
Oh yeah, I also pulled off the front bumper/lower valance and used a 2 x 4, a piece of rope and the Ridgeline to pull the lower part of the core support back out. It was pushed in about 3/8 of and inch. That was free except the cost of beer to pay the spotter.
Mod: custom rear carpet
$$$: +/-$45.
Time: 1 hour
Tools: Utility knife, Philips head screwdriver, measuring tape.
The flash makes it look lighter than it is, but I picked up some carpet from a home carpet store for like $8 a square yard or something. The carpet is almost identical to the 4E8 color code. Just remove the frame around the back seat, leave an excess of an inch, then screw down the frame, and trim the excess off the frame. Do the same for the rear chrome sill. I used a single piece to do the whole floor and seat back, it just folds to go up the seat.
$$$: +/-$45.
Time: 1 hour
Tools: Utility knife, Philips head screwdriver, measuring tape.
The flash makes it look lighter than it is, but I picked up some carpet from a home carpet store for like $8 a square yard or something. The carpet is almost identical to the 4E8 color code. Just remove the frame around the back seat, leave an excess of an inch, then screw down the frame, and trim the excess off the frame. Do the same for the rear chrome sill. I used a single piece to do the whole floor and seat back, it just folds to go up the seat.
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
THAT is frikin sweet. How much carpet did it take?
Hmmmmmm...I can't remember off the top of my head, but the roll I purchased it off was wider than the 60's width. Therefore, I just had them give me a length equal to that of from the tailgate seal to the top of the rear seat when folded down plus 12". The pic doesn't do justice to how good it looks, super nice. I just removed the interior panels and set the trimmed carpet, and then put on the panels, hiding the unsewn edge like trim on house carpet.
SMELLS better now inside
SMELLS better now inside
You can also have carpeting edged for about $1/ft. Do it for just the parts that are potentially exposed: the sides and around the wheel wells. Skip it where it will be under the metal trim.
Getting a cheap remnant plus the edging would still possibly be under $50
Getting a cheap remnant plus the edging would still possibly be under $50
For diesel drivers: Replace your EDIC system with a simple dash kill rod. See:
IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Sheila's evisceration and birth of an HJ62 -> Tofudebeest
DIY aluminum diamondplate battery tray.
See: https://forum.ih8mud.com/3805462-post289.html
Magnetic tool tray from Sears (Craftsman): Craftsman Magnetic Tray, Stainless Steel - Model 41329 at Sears.com
Place it between your shifter and console (not on a 62, unless converted to stick). I have the three magnet one that's about 16" wide, (then one pictures is about 10" wide) and rattle canned it in black hammered Rustoleum.
"Panavise" speaker mount for GPS, clipboard, etc.
See: IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Sheila's evisceration and birth of an HJ62 -> Tofudebeest
IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Sheila's evisceration and birth of an HJ62 -> Tofudebeest
DIY aluminum diamondplate battery tray.
See: https://forum.ih8mud.com/3805462-post289.html
Magnetic tool tray from Sears (Craftsman): Craftsman Magnetic Tray, Stainless Steel - Model 41329 at Sears.com
Place it between your shifter and console (not on a 62, unless converted to stick). I have the three magnet one that's about 16" wide, (then one pictures is about 10" wide) and rattle canned it in black hammered Rustoleum.
"Panavise" speaker mount for GPS, clipboard, etc.
See: IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Sheila's evisceration and birth of an HJ62 -> Tofudebeest
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Electrolysis is your enemy, what are you using in between the plate and the steel of the truck?
rear tail gate gas strutts to hold bonnet open
I be no foo...
Hose bib rubber washers. Tangential benefit of reduced vibration to the battery. Scha-----wing.
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
Electrolysis is the separation of water into hydrogen and oxygen using electric current.
Galvanic corrosion is the degradation that the aluminum (an anode) will suffer when placed in electrical contact with the steel (a cathode) in the presence of an electrolyte (like salt water or dirty water or leaking battery acid)
By isolating the dissimilar metals (using a non conductive material such as plastic or rubber) you break the electrical circuit between the anode and the cathode and the galvanic current can not flow.
Unfortunately even with isolation between the aluminum tray and the steel frame, there is still likely a path for current to flow through the battery hold down clamp, which goes from the aluminum tray to the steel body.
In all likelyhood, chances are the real issue is crevice corrosion, where the liquid is trapped against the aluminum, and becomes stagnant, a lack of oxygen in the liquid.....
aw screw it never mind!!
Back to your regularly scheduled MUD......
My best mod under $50 to your battery tray... some nylon "T" washers where the steel comes in contact with the aluminum.
