NLXTACY
Wits' End
If I say "Galvanic Corrosion" no one will know what the heck I am talking about. 
Best Mods under $50... (1 Viewer)
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I thought of that and put a rubber sleeve over the hook where it touches the tray.
They don't absorb the vibrations as well as rubber washers. Come to think of it, I rejected the washers as too big and opted for smaller O rings.
If I say "Galvanic Corrosion" no one will know what the heck I am talking about.
Nobody ever knows what I am talking about...
ntsqd
technerd
Wrong.If I say "Galvanic Corrosion" no one will know what the heck I am talking about.
But if you start talking about Intergranular Corrosive Stress Theories you're going to loose me.My latest under $50 mod:
What if the fan itself has a broken wing? Any cheap repair for that?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
JB weld
Buy a used fan from the parting out section of mud.
Better Radiator Petcock
I had the sorry plastic radiator petcock replaced with a metal one that I can attach a hose to when I drain the radiator. The petcock cost about $6 and the radiator man rethreaded the hole to NPT for a total cost of $35
I had the sorry plastic radiator petcock replaced with a metal one that I can attach a hose to when I drain the radiator. The petcock cost about $6 and the radiator man rethreaded the hole to NPT for a total cost of $35
Still going under necessity!
Really like the petcock mod. I've always cursed the mess that comes with draining a radiator.
Quick Drain Engine Valve
One of my best mods by far (and under $30):
QuickOilDrainValve.com - the best way to change oil
Have had one on my Chevy K20 for years with no issues whatsoever, and makes simple maintenance all the more proper.
My LT1 likes its oil changes, and I dont mind not having to fight with a drain plug.
One of my best mods by far (and under $30):
QuickOilDrainValve.com - the best way to change oil
Have had one on my Chevy K20 for years with no issues whatsoever, and makes simple maintenance all the more proper.
My LT1 likes its oil changes, and I dont mind not having to fight with a drain plug.
I read soemwhere on here moving the rear window sprayer to squirt on tail-gaters. I think that's an amazing idea, but on my 62 I have no idea how to even work that thing....
-Carl
-Carl
I read soemwhere on here moving the rear window sprayer to squirt on tail-gaters. I think that's an amazing idea, but on my 62 I have no idea how to even work that thing....
-Carl
Hold the rear wiper switch down with you finger, about a second later, voila.
That only works if the fluid can make it to the sprayer . . . my hose is broke somewhere above my D Pillar . . . when I push the button it just dribbles down into my cargo area . . .
Thats my next fix
Mikesta, your very right 62's demand respect, if not already given, I just tap the brakes a little and they back off, but I want to know and somehow adjust it for my buddies that tailgate me in their trucks jsut to mess with me. And of course I do the same to then along with the occasional bump. 
So does anyone know how to adjust the sprayer to shoot backward?
-Carl
So does anyone know how to adjust the sprayer to shoot backward?
-Carl
May I respectively suggest that this sprayer discussion move off-thread? (and delete your off-topic messages)
This thread was meant to be a concise list of under $50 mods. Your question is interesting... just start a new thread in the 60 series tech forum....
(Not trying to be an a-hole here... just trying to keep this FAQ quality thread on track)
PS I will delete THIS message after it's usefulness has waned...
This thread was meant to be a concise list of under $50 mods. Your question is interesting... just start a new thread in the 60 series tech forum....
(Not trying to be an a-hole here... just trying to keep this FAQ quality thread on track)
PS I will delete THIS message after it's usefulness has waned...
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Mark you are totally a thread nazi and I fully support what you are trying to do in various threads.
Talk to Woody about making you a mod. In the meantime, PLEASE just mods.
So in keeping on topic, tie in a vacuum gauge and mount it in the vehicle. This appears all over the forum but I don't remember seeing it on this thread.
The magnetic tool tray I referenced above, installed. Note, it will work through carpet, those magnets are strong.
I picked up a pair of Euro mirrors for $50. Does that count?
Rear window sprayer hose fix
Mine didn't just dribble, it flooded. That cheap plastic aquarium-like plastic hose crystallized and broke just inside the rubber grommet and up under the headliner. I got 18 feet of rubber hose from NAPA with the same inner diameter of the broken plastic hose, but thicker sidewalls. After taking all the access panels off of the rear upper door and pulling the headliner loose about 18 inches from each back corner, I was able to finally get the rubber hose from the washer fluid bag through to the nozzle on the rear door by disconnecting the plastic tubing at the unions in the upper corners behind the head liner, attaching the rubber hose to the plastic tubing and pulling the rubber hose through. The only tricky parts were going through the rubber grommet between the body and the rear door (used spit for lubrication, but a little dishwashing detergent might have been more sanitary), and going down inside the rear drivers side post (right above the washer fluid bag). I started in the upper corner on the drivers side and went down to the washer bag. Once I got that, I connected the other end of the rubber hose onto the plastic tubing and pulled the hose across the back inside the framing just under the very back of the headliner. Then, through the rubber grommet, down the passengers side of the upper rear door, and then across the bottom of the upper rear door to the nozzle. Putting the headliner back, and all the trim pieces and panels back on, I now have a functioning rear window washer fed by a continuous rubber hose from the washer bag to the nozzle. It'll outlast the rest of the land cruiser.
Mine didn't just dribble, it flooded. That cheap plastic aquarium-like plastic hose crystallized and broke just inside the rubber grommet and up under the headliner. I got 18 feet of rubber hose from NAPA with the same inner diameter of the broken plastic hose, but thicker sidewalls. After taking all the access panels off of the rear upper door and pulling the headliner loose about 18 inches from each back corner, I was able to finally get the rubber hose from the washer fluid bag through to the nozzle on the rear door by disconnecting the plastic tubing at the unions in the upper corners behind the head liner, attaching the rubber hose to the plastic tubing and pulling the rubber hose through. The only tricky parts were going through the rubber grommet between the body and the rear door (used spit for lubrication, but a little dishwashing detergent might have been more sanitary), and going down inside the rear drivers side post (right above the washer fluid bag). I started in the upper corner on the drivers side and went down to the washer bag. Once I got that, I connected the other end of the rubber hose onto the plastic tubing and pulled the hose across the back inside the framing just under the very back of the headliner. Then, through the rubber grommet, down the passengers side of the upper rear door, and then across the bottom of the upper rear door to the nozzle. Putting the headliner back, and all the trim pieces and panels back on, I now have a functioning rear window washer fed by a continuous rubber hose from the washer bag to the nozzle. It'll outlast the rest of the land cruiser.
