I saw the Valvoline Palladium 3% MoS2 at NAPA today.
<$3 a tube.
That'll be the stuff I use for my next repack (soon).
Hayes
<$3 a tube.
That'll be the stuff I use for my next repack (soon).
Hayes
BEST Birf LUBE for 80's????? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kennyv0826
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I just redid a hosed inner seal on my DS (it was gone for a while, just never go to it till today). I used Valvoline synth blend...$4.50 a tube. I used 2.5 tubes on the one side, including the birf itself.
The good news is I know the seals are all good. The bad news is I fixed the steering arm studs, etc and ended up hosing my toe adjustment again and I don't have time to fix it before I go wheeling.
Oh well, I will probably throw it off when I am up at Tellico anyway!
The good news is I know the seals are all good. The bad news is I fixed the steering arm studs, etc and ended up hosing my toe adjustment again and I don't have time to fix it before I go wheeling.
Oh well, I will probably throw it off when I am up at Tellico anyway!
I think I know where that recommendation came from. Did you order some Keystone too??
Where did I put that needle?
The next time I repack the NewNewerNewfields I will use dino grease.
If I don't get grease in the diff, I will know it was the grease.
If I get grease in the diff again, I will know its the worn inner axle.
I have the breather extended up and have a free flow filter on it so there is no vacuum in the diff.
If I don't get grease in the diff, I will know it was the grease.
If I get grease in the diff again, I will know its the worn inner axle.
I have the breather extended up and have a free flow filter on it so there is no vacuum in the diff.
NLGI = National Lubricating Grease Institute and the # next to it is the density of the grease. Explained like this: #000 (rare) is the same consistency as honey and #6 (rare) is the same consistency as cold playdoh. #2 being the most popular grease on the market according to what I have seen.
Molybdenite= The mineral that we get our Molybdenum (moly) solid lubricant from is one of the best known solid lubricants due to it's crystiline form it can help maintain film thickness in even the most extreme applications.
The company I work for has found that too much moly can cause premature wear in on metal components (think about it as a type of polishing agent if it helps. Too much and you being to wear away the metal you intended to protect).
Synthetic vs. Mineral -
Do you like coke? or do you like Pepsi? are you a Miracle whip or Hellmans. Synthetic oils tend to have better pour points than mineral oils before you include additives. A mineral oil can be made to have all the same features of a Synthetic at about half the cost. Synthetics require the use of a small amount of "Brightstock" to allow additives to become soluable in it. What I find humorous about this is that Brightstock is a mineral based component...so I snicker when I read "FULLY SYNTHETIC". There are applications where the synthetic products are better, and the mineral products are better. So really, it comes down to wallet and opinions. Don't get me started on semi-synthetic oils...what a crock...
Manufacturer recommendations are there for a reason. They know what the metals used were and the type of device it was intended to be. I am curious to find out what it is they use in their factories.
I think I got off on a tangent...I've been in the oil business for a little while now and these conversations always tickle me.
Molybdenite= The mineral that we get our Molybdenum (moly) solid lubricant from is one of the best known solid lubricants due to it's crystiline form it can help maintain film thickness in even the most extreme applications.
The company I work for has found that too much moly can cause premature wear in on metal components (think about it as a type of polishing agent if it helps. Too much and you being to wear away the metal you intended to protect).
Synthetic vs. Mineral -
Do you like coke? or do you like Pepsi? are you a Miracle whip or Hellmans. Synthetic oils tend to have better pour points than mineral oils before you include additives. A mineral oil can be made to have all the same features of a Synthetic at about half the cost. Synthetics require the use of a small amount of "Brightstock" to allow additives to become soluable in it. What I find humorous about this is that Brightstock is a mineral based component...so I snicker when I read "FULLY SYNTHETIC". There are applications where the synthetic products are better, and the mineral products are better. So really, it comes down to wallet and opinions. Don't get me started on semi-synthetic oils...what a crock...Manufacturer recommendations are there for a reason. They know what the metals used were and the type of device it was intended to be. I am curious to find out what it is they use in their factories.
I think I got off on a tangent...I've been in the oil business for a little while now and these conversations always tickle me.
Beowulf, easy now...that wasn't laughing at anyone. It was a "People argue about this so much" that it tickles me. There is no golden answer to so many of these grand old questions.
Ah well...it's hard to explain, but I do enjoy taking part in these discussions.
Ah well...it's hard to explain, but I do enjoy taking part in these discussions.
So what is your take on the use of a 5% blend over the 3%? I never heard of the moly causing wear. I however do understand that it can be though of an additive like graphite but it is not hard enough of a material to cause wear on hardened steel.
Checked the dif oil and it got Amspoil grease in it again 
There is no leaking of oil and the knuckle where the wipers are is dry of grease,
I haven't added grease for a couple years.
That hard Amspoil grease is still making past the seals.
I will be repacking soon and if it still leaks dino grease past the new seals, I will say "I was wrong about the HARD STIFF AMSPOIL GREASE".
There is no leaking of oil and the knuckle where the wipers are is dry of grease,
I haven't added grease for a couple years.
That hard Amspoil grease is still making past the seals.
I will be repacking soon and if it still leaks dino grease past the new seals, I will say "I was wrong about the HARD STIFF AMSPOIL GREASE".
Moly is a solid that is ground up and put into oils or greases. Just like Bon Ami (non-abrasive cleaner like comet) says on its instructions "Never scratches..blah blah blah" then a warning that reads "Don't use on windows". Bon Ami has very non-abrasive cleaning agents in it, but it will scratch glass...ask me how I know.
Moly in the wrong situation can cause damage. Maybe not today or next month, but over the course of many hours of use it will eventually be visible to the naked eye.
If MOLY was the best there was, it would be in everything we use. Since it is an additive you could buy it by itself and add it to anything you wanted just like Honda did with their Pro-Honda HP-4M motorcycle oil. All they did was take their basic HP-4 oil and add a percentage of MOLY to it. That took the oil from a JASO MA rating to a JASO MB rating because the oil cooled/lubricated clutch slipped more with the MOLY present. In that application it could be very dangerous.
I will ask Threebond on monday if they sell their Molybdenum Dysulfide grease to Toyota since they are the predominate supplier of adhesives and greases to the Japanese engine makers. Once I know that, I will ask them what percentage it is the factory uses for Land Cruisers. I think I might already know, but I want to be sure (what I think it could be). Information changes to quickly to know anything for certain for too long.
I really hope some of this is helpful.
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Moly is a solid that is ground up and put into oils or greases. Just like Bon Ami (non-abrasive cleaner like comet) says on its instructions "Never scratches..blah blah blah" then a warning that reads "Don't use on windows". Bon Ami has very non-abrasive cleaning agents in it, but it will scratch glass...ask me how I know.
Moly in the wrong situation can cause damage. Maybe not today or next month, but over the course of many hours of use it will eventually be visible to the naked eye.
If MOLY was the best there was, it would be in everything we use. Since it is an additive you could buy it by itself and add it to anything you wanted just like Honda did with their Pro-Honda HP-4M motorcycle oil. All they did was take their basic HP-4 oil and add a percentage of MOLY to it. That took the oil from a JASO MA rating to a JASO MB rating because the oil cooled/lubricated clutch slipped more with the MOLY present. In that application it could be very dangerous.
I will ask Threebond on monday if they sell their Molybdenum Dysulfide grease to Toyota since they are the predominate supplier of adhesives and greases to the Japanese engine makers. Once I know that, I will ask them what percentage it is the factory uses for Land Cruisers. I think I might already know, but I want to be sure (what I think it could be). Information changes to quickly to know anything for certain for too long.
I really hope some of this is helpful.
So are you sayin that the Aeroshell 33 (5% moly) that I just put in my 80 birfs at over $13 a tube is gonna wear them out!? DAMNIT, now I'm bummed!!!!
I my birfs have 165K on them, the last 55K or so were with Aeroshell 17, no clinking as of yet.
If moly lube was known to cause significant wear it would not be used in aircraft.
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Guess this is a dumb question but I'll ask anyways. If you are putting one of the Moly lubes in the Birfs, and a different synthetic type for the bearings, wont they end up mixing with eachother after heating up and churning ect? If this is the case, would there be a middle of the road lube to be used both in the Birfs and the bearings so mixing of different types will not cause premature breakdown? I don't know exactly how the axle are designed since I have not been inside mine yet but perhaps there are seals in place to keep the different types from mixing. I am getting ready to start my rebuild so this is a good thread for me since all I have left to get is the lube. Hopefully I can begin the rebuild this weekend.
No, because the bearings that are being talked about are the wheel bearings, which do not come in contact with the birf grease (this will all make sense when you pull the axle apart). The knuckle (aka trunion) bearings are in the same area as the birf grease, and those bearings would get the same as the birf, they only turn when you turn the wheel, so not used in traditional bearing mode like a wheel bearing.
Alright, I think I understand and I am sure I will even moreso after I get inside there. So recomendation after this thread is to use a 3%-5% moly for the birfs and a good synthetic for everything else? Is that right? Hopefully I will be able to find what I need here locally and if not, then I will have to order it and won't be able to work on it this weekend. Thanks for your explaination.
The FSM calls out wheel bearing grease for the trunion bearings - which is what I used. I don't think there is much chance of the wheel bearing grease from the trunions mixing with the moly from the knuckle/birf.
Tom
I am going to have to repack my front axle ...I have at my business a Mobil grease that is mobil cm-p , it is a 3% moly gray lithium complex ...it is a grease made for impact on bearings and industail mining equipment .
This grease is pretty mean !
Would this be a good grease to use on the brifs .
It is a NLGI # 2 grease with a melt point of 475 degrees ...i have a tone of the stuff thats why I'm asking .
Greg
This grease is pretty mean !
Would this be a good grease to use on the brifs .
It is a NLGI # 2 grease with a melt point of 475 degrees ...i have a tone of the stuff thats why I'm asking .
Greg
