Baselining our first 80 series: A '93 '3x locked FZJ80 (3 Viewers)

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I break the rules on a regular basis as you know. My pinion is pointed up due to running a rear DC shaft, so, when I fill the rear diff I point the nose of my rig down the incline of my driveway so as to overfill is a bit. Haven’t had a problem yet.

So basically, our rear axle was not designed to use oil bath as the lube for the wheel bearings. This discussion has been had before. Refreshing the hub oil by going off camber side to side is a good reason to go wheeling. Most wives, will understand and agree. LOL
This happens to be the same as a GM corporate 14 bolt as well circa 1978. I'm not sure of any dimensional difference because it's been 40 years since I had one apart.

It's actually listed in their manual to pre-grease the bearings then allow the grease to be "absorbed / blended / dissolved" into the gear oil that enters the hubs. That's why it's very important to use compatible greases and oils in your truck.
 
This happens to be the same as a GM corporate 14 bolt as well circa 1978. I'm not sure of any dimensional difference because it's been 40 years since I had one apart.

It's actually listed in their manual to pre-grease the bearings then allow the grease to be "absorbed / blended / dissolved" into the gear oil that enters the hubs. That's why it's very important to use compatible greases and oils in your truck.
I use Palladium in everything.
 
I managed to get the parking shoe thing back on. What a pain! It must be easier with the hub off. Kind of a 3 or 4 hand job.

Tomorrow will hopefully be able to wrap this up. Fingers crossed.
 
I managed to get the parking shoe thing back on. What a pain! It must be easier with the hub off. Kind of a 3 or 4 hand job.

Tomorrow will hopefully be able to wrap this up. Fingers crossed.
IIRC there's a knockout on the front of the rotor housing that allows you to get the the shoe adjusters from the outside. You have to locate and knock it out, though.

I may be thinking of something else, but I recall griping to myself when doing mine and I discovered later there was a way to access that adjuster.
 
Yeah, that knockout worked for adjusting the hand brake. Much safer/easier than getting it stuck on there.

Am I being completely stupid, or do I have to take off the pad holder in the rear to get the new pads in? They came out without having to take it off. I can get the inner new pads on, but the outside pads seem like they just don't fit without taking it off.

Edit: I was! Just have to tilt it with the rounded part going in first. It's fairly tight but not that hard.
 
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Got all of the calipers together! The main sliding pin rubber gasket thing (the long one) was a challenge to get in by hand. I ended up using a 1/4 square drive extension and it went really well. The smaller rubber gasket thing was easy on one side and challenge on the other for me.

Turns out the "piston kit" is for two sides, not for one. I have twice as much as I need between the two kits. Also comes with a special red soap grease for the sliding pins.

Now to try bleeding it!
 
Well, it's all back together. Got extra gear oil in through the rear breather (which was clogged, now no longer). Changed out the air filter with OEM (some made in USA unit, didn't look bad. Will be a good backup).

Brake bleeding *seemed* to go really well, at first. I used the Motive unit. I should've tightened down the connector to the master cylinder as it had a leak. It was fine, but I wonder if sitting in brake fluid for a few weeks caused something to swell. It didn't leak once tightened. The Motive system is incredible though, so much easier than other bleeding and makes it truly a one man system.

I bled all four, and even the LSPV. The pedal, while not running, felt awesome. Really firm. I did all 4 bleeders, then used the pedal, then all 4 + LSPV (seemed to have no air in it). The fluid coming out was all clear. I assumed I'd be good.

Then I ran it, and with the booster the brakes felt really mushy. It's really snowy here and I had no problem activating ABS several times, but that doesn't say much for stopping power.

I have it parked on a downhill, facing up, so should be ideal for bubbles coming up through the master cylinder. I am guessing I'll have to bleed it again. I'm not sure how to activate the ABS while bleeding, which I've heard is important.

At least I have some brakes! Disappointing they aren't perfect like I thought they were until I ran it.

The hand brake seems to work really well!

Really appreciate all of the help and advice so far.

Happy New Years Eve!
 
What bleed sequence did you use? Did you bed the brakes properly?

The sequence I used for my USDM cruiser is the MC, then right aft, LSPV, left aft, PS then DS.

Then I bedded my brakes. I heated my brakes by dragging them at low speeds until I got to the hwy.

Then it was accelerate to 45 and stop without activating ABS Down to 5 and repeat 5-6 times. Then accelerate to 60 and hard press w/o ABS down to 5 repeat 6-9 times until I can smell the cancer from my wheels.

Drive around for cool down period for 15-20 minutes and let it rest overnight in the garage. Never holding the brakes against the rotors is the key. No transfer of materials and no warped rotors.
 
What bleed sequence did you use? Did you bed the brakes properly?

The sequence I used for my USDM cruiser is the MC, then right aft, LSPV, left aft, PS then DS.

Then I bedded my brakes. I heated my brakes by dragging them at low speeds until I got to the hwy.

Then it was accelerate to 45 and stop without activating ABS Down to 5 and repeat 5-6 times. Then accelerate to 60 and hard press w/o ABS down to 5 repeat 6-9 times until I can smell the cancer from my wheels.

Drive around for cool down period for 15-20 minutes and let it rest overnight in the garage. Never holding the brakes against the rotors is the key. No transfer of materials and no warped rotors.

Is it really necessary to bleed the master cylinder? The system was also never run dry.

I did: right rear, left rear, right front, left front. I thought that would be going from farthest to closest. When I did the LSPV, it was right rear, left rear, LSPV, front right, front left.

I haven't tried anything to help bed the brakes. I didn't know that was necessary -- figured it might happen on its own.
 
Is it really necessary to bleed the master cylinder? The system was also never run dry.

I did: right rear, left rear, right front, left front. I thought that would be going from farthest to closest. When I did the LSPV, it was right rear, left rear, LSPV, front right, front left.

I haven't tried anything to help bed the brakes. I didn't know that was necessary -- figured it might happen on its own.
You’re right, farthest to closest. If you didn’t mess with the MC then you’re fine. I had to bleed the MC during my process.

You should definitely bed the brakes.
 
The hurdle in the bleeding process is the ABS module.
 
I bled them again and I think it helped. Had some bubbles at first and then didn't see any on the corners where I could see it. Not perfect, but probably good enough to make it our daily driver again. Rear axle seal appears to be holding up so far, which I'm very happy about.

When I go into 4 low, it doesn't try to turn on the center diff lock (I haven't done the pin 7 mod, yet). If I also try to engage the lockers, none of them kick on. I do have a CDL switch ready to install, so maybe it'll work with that. No idea.
 
When I go into 4 low, it doesn't try to turn on the center diff lock
The low-range switch/sensor on the transfer case is probably bad. It might just need to be 'cleaned':

CDL Sensor/Switch - https://george4wd.taskled.com/cdl.html (It's about the CDL switch/sensor, but applies to all of the switches/sensors on the transfer case)

IIRC, the front and rear diff locks won't engage unless you're in 4-low the CDL is engaged. And as far as the electronics know, you aren't in 4-low the CDL isn't engaged until a signal is received from the switch/sensor on the transfer case.

Here are the switch/sensor locations from an older post by @jonheld:

transfer-position-switches-top-view-jpg.3162783
 
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IIRC, the front and rear diff locks won't engage unless you're in 4-low. And as far as the electronics know, you aren't in 4-low until a signal is received from the switch/sensor on the transfer case.
In. OEM form the only way to lock the center is shifting to low range but if a dash switch is added the center can be locked. The front and rear will only engage with center confirmed in either high or low range.
 
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Ah, this will be a good test then of the CDL switch. I can ignore the low range switch then. Although from what I understand, the shifting pattern is supposed to be different for low range than high range?

The picture shows a neutral switch. Is that on the transfer case? My lever just seems to have high and low.

Thank you for the help!
 
I got the CDL switch in. Had a hard time finding the 3rd screw, the one up top, but I did. Then it dropped down into the abyss and I lost it. Oh well. Had to use a hook to fish the connector out -- my hand was too big.

The switch seems to work and apparently locks the center just fine, and quickly. I wasn't able to start it though because the battery is too weak. I'm wondering if there's a drain, and/or if the battery is on its way out. When the battery is weak and I try to start it (and don't succeed), the lights will flash on and off for a while and only turn off if there's enough voltage, eventually. If not, it seems to click that relay till it's really dead. Very strange.
 
The mission is important and the goal in sight. A relaxed approach does us good and gets us there sometimes faster. Replace the battery. Get a good AGM. It won’t be cheap.
 
The picture shows a neutral switch. Is that on the transfer case? My lever just seems to have high and low.
'Neutral' is kind of the range between high and low. I haven't actually tested to see how far you can move the lever before it switches. With the transfer case in neutral and the transmission in Park, the AT/P light in the instrument cluster will light up:
80Series-ATPIndicator.jpg

It only lights up in park.
 
I got the CDL switch in. Had a hard time finding the 3rd screw, the one up top, but I did. Then it dropped down into the abyss and I lost it. Oh well. Had to use a hook to fish the connector out -- my hand was too big.

The switch seems to work and apparently locks the center just fine, and quickly. I wasn't able to start it though because the battery is too weak. I'm wondering if there's a drain, and/or if the battery is on its way out. When the battery is weak and I try to start it (and don't succeed), the lights will flash on and off for a while and only turn off if there's enough voltage, eventually. If not, it seems to click that relay till it's really dead. Very strange.
This also sounds like you have an alarm system.

If it is the factory RS3000, they are known to go bad at random times. It is so old, I would rip it out by the roots (methodically, of course).

Once I removed mine, my electrical issues went away, battery drain and all.

If course the alarm has nothing to do with your CDL switch or locking differentials, but eliminating it can clean up wires and improve connections. I found some of mine inside the DS A pillar . After I removed the alarm, I reconnected the plugs and had to hold them together with zip ties.
 

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