Baselining our first 80 series: A '93 '3x locked FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

[ozarkmud]

I pulled the Idle Speed Control Valve / IAC (lower screw was a huge pain!) and while the valve itself looks decent, I tested it with a bench meter and it doesn't move in or out. Didn't realize it's a gear driven one and it holds the previous setting till it adjusts.

How common is this? It looks totally fine, even on the inside.

It pulls something like 0.7A at 14.3V, which feels about right to me. On all of the settings, S1-S4. Ohmeter was showing 20 ohms, like it should.

Applying a voltage will "lock" it in place and you can't push it in/pull it out by hand, but doesn't actually move it as I ground the various S-pins.

Part number: 22270-66010

Made a more detailed thread about the idle speed control valve here: Faulty 1FZ-FE Idle Speed Control Valve / IAC - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/faulty-1fz-fe-idle-speed-control-valve-iac.1305814/

I ended up doing this temporarily:

I took the motor shaft and put some rubber washers on both sides. On the side with the shaft to give it friction as it tightens in, and on the other side to set the depth. The depth was set by trial and error. It's a slightly high idle when warm and in neutral or park, and about 650 or 700 RPM when in gear. Not a bad compromise for the time being.

The rubber washers from a Harbor Freight kit, 67552. Mostly used the 8x14x4mm rubber washers.

I used electrical tape to seal the 3 holes, but silicone would be way better. Wasn't totally sure if this would work well enough, but so far it seems to.

I'm sure there's many better possible manual idle solutions, but this used what I already had pretty well. Will see how long it holds up, but hopefully I won't need it indefinitely.

 

[RC51]

are you going to do an EGR delete? its such a PITA idk how people get it done.

 

[ozarkmud]

are you going to do an EGR delete? its such a PITA idk how people get it done.

Possibly. I'll definitely consider it. Is there a connection between the IAC and the EGR?

 

[ozarkmud]

Turns out that the IAC is not the issue! The new IAC has the same issue.

I need to go back to my manual IAC if I can't figure out what's going on.

Any ideas on what would cause a low idling engine, that's generally smooth and doesn't seem down on power or mileage?

 

[fjbj40]

Turns out that the IAC is not the issue! The new IAC has the same issue.

I need to go back to my manual IAC if I can't figure out what's going on.

Any ideas on what would cause a low idling engine, that's generally smooth and doesn't seem down on power or mileage?

TPS

 

[ozarkmud]

Now I'm not sure what to think. It's running fine with the new IAC and EGR disabled.

Still need to check TPS and more.

Unrelated, but now getting an annoying "beep, beep, beep" that lasts several seconds after taking out the key, or putting it in.

 

[ozarkmud]

I've been leary of the headgasket for a while, so I used a "Combustion Leak Tester" from Harbor Freight with the color changing liquid. Granted, this may only test for combusion leaks into the coolant, but I'm assuming that may be the most common type.

I used a drill-powered Harbor Freight pump to lower my coolant level, jettisoning from the radiator into the expansion tank (which was empty). Running with the thermostat open, up to temperature, I couldn't see bubbles in the coolant. It also didn't change the fluid color.

Wanting to be convinced that the fluid worked, I let the fluid breath in some actual exhaust (which may not even be a fair test because of the cataltyic converter(s?)). It rapidly changed to yellow.

Probably worth a try if you're suspecting your head gasket. My exhaust does seem to smell a little funny, though, and I'm not quite sure what it is.

 

[ozarkmud]

Next on the list of woes...

Oil consumption seems to have gone way up quite recently. I didn't notice any (appreciable) for a while. Then the dreaded low oil light came on. Added a quart. Wasn't even 3k miles since the last oil change, so I didn't bother doing a full oil change.

And now, I'm guessing a few hundred miles later, the oil light has come back (I should probably be checking the dipstick every drive at this point). I also noticed blue smoke at startup, and if I floor it, even in idle. Didn't have a chance to check while driving -- assuming it would be worse.

I do know there's at least one oil leak. One of the spark plug valve gaskets. I just haven't tore into it to do that, partly because I was worried about the head gasket.

This level of oil consumption is concerning. I am running 10w30 in it. Some people say that heavier oil helps with burning, and I'm sure it does, but I don't know if it'll be enough to get it down to "reasonable" levels. I know some is leaking out, but I really don't feel it's enough for this much consumption.

If the head gasket failed to an oil galley, the blowby would be tremendous, right? And if it's not, it's probably valve stem seals or rings, right?

I do have a leak down tester, and a compression tester now. I've yet to use it, but maybe it's time.

Would appreciate any suggestions you can offer.

Couple related threads:

Losing oil

I have a '97 FZJ80, with about 210K miles, and runs beautifully. However, I'm having to add a quart of oil at least every 100 miles. There are no leaks, the spark plugs are clean and dry, and it has a new PCV valve. Mechanic did a compression test and a leak down test, both came out almost...

forum.ih8mud.com

Need help diagnosing burning oil out of the exhaust

Hello, I have 1fz-fe 80. I have been burning oil out of my exhaust, I'm thinking it is worn piston rings. I have had someone say valve stem seals. It happens on cold start. Doesnt really happens when I start when the engine is warmed up. The smoke gets worse when I'm on an incline. Whenever...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[ozarkmud]

I've done some more reading on this. It sounds like my valve cover leaks accelerate the oil burning process through the PCV valve. And my valve stem seals are probably shot.

I haven't head of valve stem seals going out so regularly on other motors. Is it more common on the 1FZ? Do they last longer on the 3FE, if they have any specific seals at all?

I haven't yet looked for a thread on how to pull the cams safely. I also think I'm going to need to plan on doing a bunch of things at once.

- EGR delete?
- Rear heater delete?
- What else should I plan on while I'm there?

It looks like unless you pull the head, you have to use compressed air to keep the valves from falling into the bore, is that right? It sounds like I'll want a belly board and a valve puller tool, thing. Never done this kind of work before. I guess I'll also want to check my valve clearances while I'm at it.

Threads on valve stem seals:

New Cruiser: Valve Guide Seal Quick Swap DIY

For those who might be interested I thought I would document the my process to swap the valve guide seals in situ. A little background: I just picked up this truck about a month ago and although it passed a combustion leak test and the compression and leakdown numbers looked pretty good, it was...

forum.ih8mud.com

It is worth doing a top end rebuild with leaking valve seals

Hey all, I'm gearing up to catch up some maintenance on my 1997 FJZ80. I've done a mild tune up at 170k and going to do a major tune up right now, at 230k. This includes replacing leaking valve cover gasket, as well replacing almost all of the gaskets, coolant lines and vacuum lines under the...

forum.ih8mud.com

Video:

 

[Mojo353]

I've done some more reading on this. It sounds like my valve cover leaks accelerate the oil burning process through the PCV valve. And my valve stem seals are probably shot.

I haven't head of valve stem seals going out so regularly on other motors. Is it more common on the 1FZ? Do they last longer on the 3FE, if they have any specific seals at all?

I haven't yet looked for a thread on how to pull the cams safely. I also think I'm going to need to plan on doing a bunch of things at once.

- EGR delete?
- Rear heater delete?
- What else should I plan on while I'm there?

It looks like unless you pull the head, you have to use compressed air to keep the valves from falling into the bore, is that right? It sounds like I'll want a belly board and a valve puller tool, thing. Never done this kind of work before. I guess I'll also want to check my valve clearances while I'm at it.

Threads on valve stem seals:

New Cruiser: Valve Guide Seal Quick Swap DIY

For those who might be interested I thought I would document the my process to swap the valve guide seals in situ. A little background: I just picked up this truck about a month ago and although it passed a combustion leak test and the compression and leakdown numbers looked pretty good, it was...

forum.ih8mud.com

It is worth doing a top end rebuild with leaking valve seals

Hey all, I'm gearing up to catch up some maintenance on my 1997 FJZ80. I've done a mild tune up at 170k and going to do a major tune up right now, at 230k. This includes replacing leaking valve cover gasket, as well replacing almost all of the gaskets, coolant lines and vacuum lines under the...

forum.ih8mud.com

Video:

I'm having Similar issues, mine only smokes a little for a few seconds after start up, I'm thinking king it's the valve stem seals too.
I'm thinking thinking I will have to do them eventually though. I'm going to use an oil additive for now specifically for old worn gaskets and seals as my oil consumption is erratic.
My compression is good on all cylinders (96 FZJ80) but I did scope the cylinders with a camera and noticed oil streaks coming from above the head gasket if the truck was sitting for a few hours.
I too am wondering what else I should be checking / replacing if I do go ahead and tackle the valve stem seals.
The seal conditioner I've ordered is Forte Seal Conditioner - from the UK ( I'm in Canada) , will update on whether it does the trick or not.

 

[LandLocked93]

are you going to do an EGR delete? its such a PITA idk how people get it done.

Easiest just to disable it with the loopback method.

 

[Mojo353]

Easiest just to disable it with the loopback method.

I've disabled mine too for now - loop back method ? What is that?
I just disconnected the vacuum lines, looped the ones on the top of the intake, disconnected the temp sensor and installed a resistor. PO said it was the EGR that was causing the erratic idle when the motor was hot. It will creep up above 1100 rpm. I'm not so sure about that though- found two vacuum lines had disconnected themselves from under the intake manifold- part of the vsv system I believe.
I'm going to tackle that first and see if it resolves the idle issue. I'm thinking if they are disconnected then it's that un metered air causing the issue.

 

[LandLocked93]

I've disabled mine too for now - loop back method ? What is that?
I just disconnected the vacuum lines, looped the ones on the top of the intake, disconnected the temp sensor and installed a resistor. PO said it was the EGR that was causing the erratic idle when the motor was hot. It will creep up above 1100 rpm. I'm not so sure about that though- found two vacuum lines had disconnected themselves from under the intake manifold- part of the vsv system I believe.
I'm going to tackle that first and see if it resolves the idle issue. I'm thinking if they are disconnected then it's that un metered air causing the issue.

You may have it then. Should look like this:
These 2 loops...

And a plug on this one. This is actually the other end of one of the pipes involved in the lower loop back above. I just plugged it to keep crap out of it. A piece of vacuum line with a bolt RTV'd into it.

 

[Mojo353]

I think I do for the most part except for the last pic. Mine doesn't have anything there to plug ?
I'll tidy up where I fit the resistor- it's a temporary solution for now.

 

[Mojo353]

Update..... performed a smoke test and revealed something interesting. Found a small leak which appears to be coming from the bypassed EGR - it's closed but there is a leak under the diaphragm on the intake side - very small but enough to cause the rpm not to drop below 800. I'll sort that when I remove it completely.
The other interesting reveal was when I tested through the port to the other part of the EGR- I removed the Blue Top part and tested through tge port that connects them both together. Effectively testing the exhaust manifold and through the tail pipe - another 2 leaks - which won't effect idle but interesting to find and added to the to do list