Baselining my first 80. What have I missed? (22 Viewers)

[cts]

I've been baselining a new to me 1994 FZJ80 with 204K miles and an unknown history. It runs and drives well aside from oil leaks and a transmission issue detailed below. I'm about to take it into a shop to have the remaining work done that is above my 2-banana mechanical capabilites. Is there anything else I should do myself or have done while the shop has it torn apart?

Done so far:

Coolant/heater hoses all look good PHH had been addressed, replaced leaking heater valve​

Radiator appears to have been recently replaced, flushed and replaced coolant​

New oil in diffs and TC​

Refreshed brake fluid and bled brakes pads/rotors are good​

Adjusted parking brake and throttle cables​

Replaced leaking PS pump​

Replaced AC compressor​

Replaced belts​

Replaced air filter​

Replaced wiper blades and unclogged washer nozzles​

Replaced lift struts on hood and tailgate​

Replaced tires​

Detailed interior and replaced a few trim pieces​

Remaining priority Issues:

Transmission seems to start in 3rd gear when cold, resulting in very sluggish acceleration. Works fine cold w/ shifter in L or in D when the transmission is warm. Suspect the 1&2 solenoids need to be replaced​

Significant leak from rear main seal​

Significant leak from timing cover​

Remaining lower priority issues I'm planning to wait to address

Very slight leak from valve cover​

A couple suspension bushings need to be replaced (will address that when I install a lift)​

Birfs are in good shape but some slight leaking​

My plan is to take it to an independent Toyota shop (ATLR near Denver) and have them take care of the trans issue and engine leaks. What else would you recommend having done in conjunction with that work? This is what I was thinking:

When dropping the transmission pan to replace the solenoids: Full transmission flush, new filter and gasket​

When taking off the timing cover: Inspect timing chain - only replace if out of spec? Replace front crankshaft seal. Should I consider having the water pump, thermostat, or anything else replaced while there is access to the front of the engine?​

​

And then is there anything else you'd recommend inspecting/maintaining that I haven't mentioned? I haven't checked the spark plugs or rotor, but the ignition cables and distributor cap look new, so I assume they were also recently replaced.

Thanks in advance,
Chris

 

[MissahPapaJ]

I've been baselining a new to me 1994 FZJ80 with 204K miles and an unknown history. It runs and drives well aside from oil leaks and a transmission issue detailed below. I'm about to take it into a shop to have the remaining work done that is above my 2-banana mechanical capabilites. Is there anything else I should do myself or have done while the shop has it torn apart?

Done so far:

Coolant/heater hoses all look good PHH had been addressed, replaced leaking heater valve​

Radiator appears to have been recently replaced, flushed and replaced coolant​

New oil in diffs and TC​

Refreshed brake fluid and bled brakes pads/rotors are good​

Adjusted parking brake and throttle cables​

Replaced leaking PS pump​

Replaced AC compressor​

Replaced belts​

Replaced air filter​

Replaced wiper blades and unclogged washer nozzles​

Replaced lift struts on hood and tailgate​

Replaced tires​

Detailed interior and replaced a few trim pieces​

Remaining priority Issues:

Transmission seems to start in 3rd gear when cold, resulting in very sluggish acceleration. Works fine cold w/ shifter in L or in D when the transmission is warm. Suspect the 1&2 solenoids need to be replaced​

Significant leak from rear main seal​

Significant leak from timing cover​

Remaining lower priority issues I'm planning to wait to address

Very slight leak from valve cover​

A couple suspension bushings need to be replaced (will address that when I install a lift)​

Birfs are in good shape but some slight leaking​

My plan is to take it to an independent Toyota shop (ATLR near Denver) and have them take care of the trans issue and engine leaks. What else would you recommend having done in conjunction with that work? This is what I was thinking:

When dropping the transmission pan to replace the solenoids: Full transmission flush, new filter and gasket​

When taking off the timing cover: Inspect timing chain - only replace if out of spec? Replace front crankshaft seal. Should I consider having the water pump, thermostat, or anything else replaced while there is access to the front of the engine?​

​

And then is there anything else you'd recommend inspecting/maintaining that I haven't mentioned? I haven't checked the spark plugs or rotor, but the ignition cables and distributor cap look new, so I assume they were also recently replaced.

Thanks in advance,
Chris

If it’s the lower cover that’s leaking I’d clean it up by pressure washing affected area ( in an environmentally safe way ) maybe some engine oil dye and a UV lamp. If it’s just the oil pump cover that’s easily done. But if it’s the actual cover itself ( mainly there’s a o-ring that likes to leak behind the cover when it gets a little long in the tooth ) if that’s the case the engine comes out and the head comes off. Get ready to spend them green backs.
It’s fairly effective to use brake clean to clean up oil on a motor that’s warmed up ( in a super well ventilated area with a fan on low to blow the chemicals away from yourself, use a old cardboard box under the area and a couple of old tshirts to soak up the old oil.

Hopefully it’s just the oil pump cover and front main seal.
Good luck.

 

[Broski]

Agreed that it’s most likely just oil pump cover and or the front main seal.
Unusual for the timing chain cover to leak or the timing chain to need to be replaced.

 

[cts]

Thanks. It would certainly be great if it's a less complicated repair, so here's hoping it's not the timing chain cover! The first shop I took it too (Tru Automotive in Denver) seemed certain it was the timing chain cover, and there is oil at the spot where they typically seem to leak. But, I'll clean it up and try to confirm exactly where it's coming from. That shop mainly works on Toyotas, but primarily suspension and general maintenance, and they didn't feel qualified to do the timing cover, so good to do more verification myself.

From what I've read, if it is the timing chain cover, that can also be done w/o pulling the engine or removing the heads. It sounded similar to getting to the the oil pump cover but w/ the addition of dropping the oil pan and removing the radiator. Does that sound right? And if that does turn out to be the issue, it sounds like I should proactively replace the oil pump seal while there's access. Anything else that would be good to inspect or replace on the front of the engine?

 

[Azca]

Rodney flush on the trans fluid, best way to get new fluid in the trans. Youtube will have several videos on it.

 

[Kernal]

Already said mostly:

Rear engine oil leak is very often from the upper oil pan rear arch (not the rear crank seal, but that is possible)
Front engine oil leak is most often from the oil pump cover (but you go ahead and replace the front crank seal while it's all apart)
Timing chain cover can have a small seep located just above the oil pump cover seeping from behind a PRY location of the Timing chain cover, but
you won't know whether that's leaking until you replace the oil pump cover O-ring, then keep an eye out for any new leaks.
Distributor housing O-ring can leak, oil blows rearward and drops down onto the alternator
Valve cover gasket leak can trickle down and be blown all over. Replace the spark plug tube seals while the Valve cover is off (and clean the inside of the cover)
While the valve cover is off is a good time to super clean all the ports and passageways of the Throttle Body (which has to be removed anyways)
If the EGR system needs to function in your State/County it's a good time to test/clean the EGR valve and the upper intake plenum.

The transmission does not have to be dropped to replace the Solenoids, just the transmission oil pan. Follow the FSM procedure
for diagnosing the shifting issues. Others have replaced their Solenoids with less expensive non-OEM parts (search the forum for the part numbers).