Baselining Fluids... Recommendations? (1 Viewer)

[hkimsoft]

I am in the process of baselining all fluids. I am thinking about using the following

1. Engine - Mobile1 Synthetic 5w30
2. Transmission - Mobil1 Synthetic ATF
3. Power Steering - Mobil1 Synthetic ATF
4. Cooling - Toyota Red
5. Brake - Toyota Brake Fluid

do they seem reasonable?

Thanks.

 

[turbocruiser]

Personally I would use synthetic brake fluid.

Also, dont forget transfer case, I use M1 75w90.

And dont forget differentials (front and rear), I also use M1 75w90.

Ohh, according to some experts M1 tends to run somewhat "light" (not really an appropriate description but its all I can come up with) and as such even though the manual recommends 5w30, many, including myself use either M1 0w40 or 5w40. HTH.

Ohh, dont forget the chassis lube for driveshafts etc.


After all that "dont forget"-ing, always remember the mantra of "Fluids and Filters" and your rig will last a long time!

 

[Romer]

For differentials, I use Redline 75-90W

For the engine, Cary on here has recommended the 0-40W Mobil 1

On baselining the Transmission, you will only be able to drain a small part of whats in there. You can either do multiple drain and fills over a few days to get most of it changed, or yoy can go to a godd shop that does a Fluid exchange rather than a flush (Flush is bad). In the fluid exchange, they use your Tranny Pump to move the fluid allowing it to drain and adding new fluid in until all te old has run through and been replaced.

 

[whodat]

For the engine, Cary on here has recommended the 0-40W Mobil 1

I could not find M1 0w 40 in my area, cary recommended M1 5w 40 Truck and SUV as a good sub. Seems to be working fine.

 

[MH_Stevens]

My theory is cheapo Coastal 10w30 and 85w90 oils (even though I do have Mobil1 in the engine now as a test) and Dexon III and to check and change it often. Sythetics have little advantage until they get old - they are made for long-life and to conserve oil deposits - your truck will prefer frquent changes with lots of clean fresh oil.

 

[IdahoDoug]

MH,

Reducing the advantages of synthetic to "when it's old" is simply not true. It provides superior protection under a variety of conditions and this performance gap widens the harder the engine is used starting on Day 1. It protects the bearings better on cold startup. The curve of its protection breakdown is far shallower than conventional oil. Blah, blah. I categorically disagree with your blanket statement, though I agree that clean fresh oil is the best you can do for your engine.

On the flip side it's expensive.

DougM

 

[cary]

There is nothing wrong with mineral oil, but I would suggest you use something better than Coastal. Any of the major brands will have a beefier additive package and better low temp pumping.

 

[MH_Stevens]

OK I stand corrected. Wont argue with Idaho. I'll just use the Coastal as a flush and change all fluids out again soon.

 

[Fly Rod]

Sounds like you are on the right track going with synthetis. I base lined every fluid, except coolant, in my rig with Amsoil. The benefits of synthetics will pay off in the long run. I had an ATF fluid exchanged done with my Amsoil ATF for $65 at a local shop. It may be me, but after changing out all of my fluids to syn the track is running quieter. (I also think I saw it smiling!)

Fly Rod