BARELY THERE BRAKES (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cc72red
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Do you have a brake hose that resembles a birthday balloon when pumping brakes?
Well, It's time to start removing lines and working your way out to the wheels to see where the blockage is.
Start at the MC, don't let it suck in any air, and see if it's pumping.
Then go to the next fitting and the next. You'll find it.
Start at the MC, don't let it suck in any air, and see if it's pumping.
Then go to the next fitting and the next. You'll find it.
I had SS braided lines that failed like this. In my bake upgrade for 16” rims thread I posted a pdf explaining how I fully diagnose our brake system. That document is likely on the last page. It’s a lengthy process but checked everything that can influence pedal response.
dirtyboots
Atrocious Driving
This
- Thread starter
- #26
- Thread starter
- #27
We haven't come across anything like that , but will definately be on the lookout. Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #28
We are kind of doing that now. Isolating each component and wheel. Checking the lines and fittings as we go.
- Thread starter
- #29
Here's an update.
After a second new MC., the problem is still there.
We replaced some soft lines on the fronts sides and found the outer rubber sheath on both sides on a couple lines was torn. the braided line inside was exposed. Not sure if that was the issue but they were replaced.
The pressure was still not building, We found the right front caliper we bought was bad. Leaking at the bottom from the seam.
Took that back and got another,... CANNOT BELIEVE IT... THIS ONE IS BAD TOO. Same problem . Fluid leaking from the seam. We are buying from local shop ( OReillys) I prefer OEM or close to it, but right now, I just need to find the original problem .
Now that brings me to a question : Where do you buy your calipers from? (better than what ive been getting).
I basically need a good one to see fix this leak to see if what I've already done before this leak has worked or at least tells me what the problem is..
Thanks for any help!
Cindy
After a second new MC., the problem is still there.
We replaced some soft lines on the fronts sides and found the outer rubber sheath on both sides on a couple lines was torn. the braided line inside was exposed. Not sure if that was the issue but they were replaced.
The pressure was still not building, We found the right front caliper we bought was bad. Leaking at the bottom from the seam.
Took that back and got another,... CANNOT BELIEVE IT... THIS ONE IS BAD TOO. Same problem . Fluid leaking from the seam. We are buying from local shop ( OReillys) I prefer OEM or close to it, but right now, I just need to find the original problem .
Now that brings me to a question : Where do you buy your calipers from? (better than what ive been getting).
I basically need a good one to see fix this leak to see if what I've already done before this leak has worked or at least tells me what the problem is..
Thanks for any help!
Cindy
Since you are close to a full brake system overhaul might as well finish it off with fresh calipers all the way around along fresh brake hoses, full bleed and see how things work at that point.
- Thread starter
- #32
One year ago I did full brake overhaul. Calipers, pads, rotors,,,, just not lines. The fronts have gotten new lines in the last couple days.
Just got to get a non bad caliper to check the system to see if its gonna hold pressure.
- Thread starter
- #33
New Caliper is on rig. Brakes were bled. The petal doesn't fall to floor anymore but it is extremely spongy. And this is WITHOUT the ABS in play.
From what most of you are saying, the brakes should feel real solid without the ABS in line.
Now there is a veeerrry slight incline where my truck is sitting. Would that hamper anything with getting all air out while bleeding?
If not, then ( to me) it would have to be getting air in from somewhere in order for the brakes to continue to be spongy. Now, I've still not come across any other soft line issues.
Anyone know why the pedal would be this bad? Meaning it takes about 1.5 inches before brakes start to grab and they seem to just not be as effective as they were before.
Maybe a possible pedal adjustment?
Especially without the ABS I shouldn't still be experiencing this with the pedal.
Thanks,
Cindy
From what most of you are saying, the brakes should feel real solid without the ABS in line.
Now there is a veeerrry slight incline where my truck is sitting. Would that hamper anything with getting all air out while bleeding?
If not, then ( to me) it would have to be getting air in from somewhere in order for the brakes to continue to be spongy. Now, I've still not come across any other soft line issues.
Anyone know why the pedal would be this bad? Meaning it takes about 1.5 inches before brakes start to grab and they seem to just not be as effective as they were before.
Maybe a possible pedal adjustment?
Especially without the ABS I shouldn't still be experiencing this with the pedal.
Thanks,
Cindy
I do two bleeds, one with the engine off and one with the engine running and a large child standing on the brake pedal prior to me cracking the bleeder. Use some 1/4" clear hose on the bleeder to the receptacle so you can monitor debris and micro bubbles.
Did you bleed the LSVP too?
Do the ABS rigs have LSPV?
LSPV can be a bear to bleed. Bleed it before doing rear calipers.
Until it is free of air, you're not gonna have good pedal feel.
LSPV can be a bear to bleed. Bleed it before doing rear calipers.
Until it is free of air, you're not gonna have good pedal feel.
- Thread starter
- #37
We took that completely off of the rig to keep it out of the loop while trying to diagnose the main culprit of the inital problem of the pedal giving away and falling to floor while driving.
We still have ABS out of line too and the brakes are back, but spongy. I really want to reintroduce the ABS once I get brakes solid to see if the ABS is unit is bad.
the lspv bleeder is for bleeding the front circuit of the brake system. bypassing the rear brake lines at the valve in the rear doesn't negate the need to bleed the valve. Not bleeding the valve will leave are in the front circuit effecting the pedal height.
The only way to avoid the need for bleeding the lspv is to disconnect and plug the line at the way in the front.
The only way to avoid the need for bleeding the lspv is to disconnect and plug the line at the way in the front.
Did U replace "all" rubber brake lines?..the one you showed is toast, I bet the rest are bad as well...dont forget the axle to frame front hose and rear hose as well..
- Thread starter
- #40
Not yet. looking into getting all of them ordered, I cannot find a hose diagram anywhere to make sure that I am ordering the correct ones. Do you know if a diagram exists? I've looked at the FSM. No diagram. I have a Haynes cannot locate a diagram there either. Nothing to be found online. I just dont want to miss any of them.
