Ball Joint/Steering Knuckle??

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Haggs

Haggs

Joined
Apr 5, 2006
Threads
16
Messages
88
Location
Leduc, AB
I searched on the topic and discovered a thread on rebuilding the steering knuckle however I just need some advice as to if that is the problem.

Please bear with me as my mechanical skills are extremely limited.

I noticed what appers to be a mixture of oil and grease on my driveway and if you look at the picks you can see what I found. My question is where to go from here. This morning I pressured washed everything off so I can see if there is a leak.

From the pictures does anyone have any advice as to my next step? Or does it just look like excess grease?

Thanks in advance,
Drew
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From what I see on the pictures I think the oil seal in the axlehousing is shot.
This way oil from the differential is leaking into the knuckle. The grease in the knuckle is dilluted and now it's leaking by the knuckle seals.
First of all check the ventvalve. On top of the axle you will find a hose about 30 cm (one foot) long. On top of it there is the valve. Check or this is not blocked.
If so, when the diff gets warm and the air in there gets warmed up, it tries to expand. When the valve is blocked the oil will try to find a way along the oilseal towards the knucle. If the valve is blocked, clean it or even better : replace it and and see what happens. (Clean the knuckle and look for further leakage).

You will have to open the knuckle, taking off the hub and axle stump. Take out the birfield. Clean everything thoroughly and replace the oil seal in the axlehousing. On the driveshaft you've taken out there is a 'rim' on which this seal sits. Check for wear tho this is not likely.
When everything is cleaned, repack the birfield and fill the housing with grease.
Put the axle-stump back in place. Adjust the bearings and put the hub back.
If your skills are limited I wouldn't do this on my own.
 
Search on 'knuckle rebuild' there are lots of step by step instuctions on the net. I think somebody even has a DVD. Order the parts from 4wheelauto or EBI cruiserparts and then set aside a weekend to do the work. If you are planning to wheel a Cruiser you should really learn how to do this. Its rare to go on a big trail run where somebody doesn't change a birfield. This job will take the mystery out of that.

Good Luck.
 
From the 80 section
Your kit looks perfect and will probably contain more parts than you will actually have to change.
Make sure the little spring on the axle seal is in place before you insert the axle back into the diff.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=78276

Looks like diff fluid on the tire. When you remove the birf check the quality of grease, if the grease looks washed out or running you have a blown axle seal.

x2 on checking your axle breather tube, you need to blow air through the valve.
 
That is a fantastic thread by Romer. I think I might give it a try on my own with all those steps laid out. I will try the breather tube first though.

Thanks guys.
 
Haggs said:
Please bear with me as my mechanical skills are extremely limited.
Click to expand...

... so do the job with someone who know mechanic... trust me...

If your cruiser is old... that job can be a PITA to pull apart...
 
So last night I decided to start to tackle the job myself and man you guys weren't joking about messy!
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So right after the picture I posted I went on to remove the hub. I released the lock washer, and removed the lock nut on the driver side. I then proceeded to the passenger side released the lock washer and used the 54mm hub socket to remove the lock nut and it is stuck. I tried for about a half hour trying to get it off and no luck :mad:

Any suggestions on how to get it off? I sprayed some wd40 on it and let it sit and still nothing.

Thanks,
Drew
 
Haggs said:
So right after the picture I posted I went on to remove the hub. I released the lock washer, and removed the lock nut on the driver side. I then proceeded to the passenger side released the lock washer and used the 54mm hub socket to remove the lock nut and it is stuck. I tried for about a half hour trying to get it off and no luck :mad:

Any suggestions on how to get it off? I sprayed some wd40 on it and let it sit and still nothing.

Thanks,
Drew
Click to expand...

You bent open the tabs on the star washer, right?
 
Yup, bent the open on both sides the driver side was all grease and oil leaking everywhere and it turned right off. the passenger side was clean so far and it won't budge.
 
w/o an impact you can also use a block of wood or a metal rod to brace the wheel studs vs. the floor. once the hub is fixed so it won't rotate counter clockwise, use a long cheater pipe etc on the handle of the wrench holding the 54mm socket.

Both of the last hub nuts I had were torqued at 95lbs and my rotten sheet metal hub socket failed to get them off. I bought the correct 2 1/8" sears socket which worked with the bracing described above.
 
Ok guys some more questions.

Question 1
On a BJ74 do I have to disconnect the tie rod from the from the knuckle arm with the special tool (from fsm) or can I leave the tie rod attached there and just disconnect at the knuckle arm?? Does that make sense?
Question 2
Is there any other way to push out the knuckle arm and shims and the and the bearing cap and shims from the steering knuckle other than using the special tool shown in the fsm?


I am trying to muddle my way through this and would appreciate any answers you guys can give me.

Thanks,
Drew
 
okay so did you get the nut off?
remove the 8 X 10mm bolts from the felt seal at the back.

to remove the king pin arm,
remove 4 17mm nuts
remove lock washers
remove 4 cone washers by hitting the arm extension with a BFH downward.
you do not need to remove the connecting rod.pound down on the arm a coupel good drifts then use a cold chisel to work the arm up and off.
make sure you do not mix up the shims what i do is once the cap is remove thread one of the nuts back on above the shims to keep them from coming off.

DO NOT PUT FINGER into the hole use a punch to push down the upper bearing and lift the knuckle up and over. (if you do use your finger make sure you have a clean rag to catch the blood from your severed finger tip) you can use a cold chisel on the edge of the bottom bearing to remove it. a couple gentle taps and the thing slides up and off.

clean well.

remove the axle seal now and insert a new one.

clean and regrease the CV joint.
insert new felt over the axle housing and reverse the above...

now wasn't that easy?
 
crushers said:
okay so did you get the nut off?
remove the 8 X 10mm bolts from the felt seal at the back.

to remove the king pin arm,
remove 4 17mm nuts
remove lock washers
remove 4 cone washers by hitting the arm extension with a BFH downward.
you do not need to remove the connecting rod.pound down on the arm a coupel good drifts then use a cold chisel to work the arm up and off.
make sure you do not mix up the shims what i do is once the cap is remove thread one of the nuts back on above the shims to keep them from coming off.

DO NOT PUT FINGER into the hole use a punch to push down the upper bearing and lift the knuckle up and over. (if you do use your finger make sure you have a clean rag to catch the blood from your severed finger tip) you can use a cold chisel on the edge of the bottom bearing to remove it. a couple gentle taps and the thing slides up and off.

clean well.

remove the axle seal now and insert a new one.

clean and regrease the CV joint.
insert new felt over the axle housing and reverse the above...

now wasn't that easy?
Click to expand...

Thanks Wayne I'll try it tonight. I did get the nut off with a ratchet and a pry bar. I am at the point now where I will use the chisel to get the arm up and off. Good thing you mentioned about not using your finger because I may have done just that :doh:

I don't know about being easy but I almost have everything taken apart and have plenty of pictures so hopefully now I can get it all back together on the weekend.

Drew
 
Wayne's description is good but I'm not sure his message conveyed the fact that a fair amount of violence is acceptable and expected in getting the arm off. Get a big hammer and beat the heck out of the arm.
 
I've been putting this project off for a little while now. After being quoted $1136.95 by toyota dealer to do the axle seals and bearings, I decided to do it myself. I ordered my parts and manuals today through 4wheelauto as well as a few other things and will still come out way ahead. Its nice to have the detailed writeups and support of this site to fall back on if I need it. :beer:
 
Thanks for the tips guys I got everything off on both sides and now the cleaning begins.


Squash said:
From the 80 section

Make sure the little spring on the axle seal is in place before you insert the axle back into the diff.
Does anybody have a pic of this little spring that he speaks of, I must be missing something because I don't know what he is talking about.

Drew
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
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