Ball Joint/Steering Knuckle??

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flip that tiny seal over in your hand, see the little spring? that would be the one talked about...
 
There was no spring on both existing seals that I pulled out. Could that be why the diff oil leaked throw into the knuckle?
 
Sorry guys just for clarification this is this the seal that we are talking about right?
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Ok cool. The old ones may just have been so dirty I must not have seen (or noticed) the spring. Thanks for the clarification Wayne.
 
Alright time for 2 more question.
1. In the fsm when packing the upper and lower bearings for the steering knuckle is says to use a moly lithium based grease and it calls for the same grease when filling the cavity. I have been checking out some threads on knuckle rebuilds here on mud and some pictures show the bearings a light coloured grease and the cavity being filled with a darker grease.

I used a dark moly grease for the bearings as the fsm suggests and I was going to use the same to fill the cavity. Am I not using the right grease?

2. When they say fill the cavity 3/4 with grease do they mean 3/4 of the entire knuckle housing or just the inner area on the outside of the cv? That is the best that I can explain it I may need a pic.

Sorry for the simple questions it's late and I am getting frustrated with this little project as I am getting worried about screwing something up. I already damaged the inner axle oil seal on the first thing I did in the re-install portion of the job and now have to get another one. :mad:

Thanks in advance for the help.

Drew
 
the grease in the knuckes are to catch the exploded birfield pieces to keep them from jambing between the big ball and the pivioting knuckle as well as to resist water contamination through the dust seals.
as the birfield turns it needs grease and the wheel bearing grease is fine for that.

some folks like to over think things, relax it isn't rocket sience...
 
Ok so I am the point to set the preload on the adjusting nut, but the hub is very hard to turn even before I tighten it. I tightened and backed it off and then hand tightened it and checked the preload with a fish scale. It is so tight I need 2 hands to turn the hub. I can'teven try to turn it with the fish scale.

Any thoughts please?

Drew
 
Haggs said:
Ok so I am the point to set the preload on the adjusting nut, but the hub is very hard to turn even before I tighten it. I tightened and backed it off and then hand tightened it and checked the preload with a fish scale. It is so tight I need 2 hands to turn the hub. I can'teven try to turn it with the fish scale.

Any thoughts please?

Drew
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I wouldn't bother with the fishscale. Just tighten it till it stops moving and then back it off about an 1/8 of a turn. Put it all together and then take it for a drive. Jack it up and make sure the wheel spins freely and has no up and down play.
 
Haggs said:
Ok so I am the point to set the preload on the adjusting nut, but the hub is very hard to turn even before I tighten it. I tightened and backed it off and then hand tightened it and checked the preload with a fish scale. It is so tight I need 2 hands to turn the hub. I can'teven try to turn it with the fish scale.

Any thoughts please?

Drew
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There must be something wrong. If the nuts are 'loose' so to say you must be able to turn it more or less freely.
Are you sure you made no mistakes in putting in the races and oil ring? Any chance the oilring is rubbing?
I would take it of again and inspect carefully.
 
Well after about 30 hours out in the garage, several minor cuts, many curse words and couple of big sighs of relief after winning a small battle with a bolt or two I am done!! All that is left is bleeding the brake lines and adding diff oil and I am good to go.

It may be a little silly to some but i am pretty excited about this. Before I got my cruiser I hadn't even done an oil change on a vehicle before and never even dreamed about doing something like this.

Thanks to everyone who gave me some help on here and keep your fingers crossed for tomorrow when I take it for a test spin that eveything is fine and working properly.

Drew
 
Well done!!
Guess how proud you'll be tomorrow when you have driven the rig and all is fine!!

BTW what was causing the hub to be so tight you could hardly turn it?
 
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I am unsure Ron, I took it apart to check it out and everything seemed exaclty as it was when I took it apart. I put the wheel on and gave it a few spins and it turned a little stiff at first and then started to spin more freely. I guess we will see when I take for a rip if everything is ok.

Drew
 
Took my rig for a spin and all was well. Jacked it back up and spun the tires and checked for play. The tires spun much more freely now and no play when moving the tire back and forth.

:beer: time.
 
Haggs said:
Took my rig for a spin and all was well. Jacked it back up and spun the tires and checked for play. The tires spun much more freely now and no play when moving the tire back and forth.

:beer: time.
Click to expand...


Boy, is he happy :D :D :D
I would say: :beer: :beer: at least!!
 
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