Bad rear wheel bearing? (1 Viewer)

[bloc]

Size, I assume, since we know the CVs are longer. I don't know how much different they are or how much it matters, but the Tundra/Sequoia is a different part # from the 200. If they are *slightly* wider diameter it would explain why the re-boot that was done on mine years ago was initially leaking grease. (Worm clamps resolved it though)

I just assumed the CV ends were the same and the shaft was simply longer on the tundra parts, but they likely would have used the same boot if that were the case. So yeah, maybe there are differences in the ends and this is responsible for your prior leak.
Even the front shocks are different despite being interchangeable.. with the cruiser parts being clearly heavier duty. Maybe the CVs are the same story

Edit: or maybe the longer shaft needs a larger diameter to reduce twisting

 

[grinchy]

To be fair I assumed drive vs coast side based on where the pattern seemed to wear, he didn't say which was which. So if there's a mistake/issue in identifying them here, it's mine.

I feel pretty sure the number of attempts was about getting it to where they felt it was spot-on, not about "after 6 attempts this is close enough". If it was about just being done with the job they could've used an aftermarket CV boot for instance instead of keeping my truck for an extra 4-5 days and then offering to cover the extra rental time.

I don't need ammunition. They said no problem, bring it back, we'll make sure it's right and you're happy. I fully trust they'll get it dialed in. My hope was that having a few eyes on this there might be some consensus that "pinion depth is a bit too much" or "bearing preload is a bit too tight" or "hey I've had this and on the 200 you need to make sure you do X differently than on the 100-series" and thus help cut the re-work. As I said they've done lots of gears on Tundras and other trucks with the same 9" clamshell but not many 200s yet.

TBH I should've had one of the guys there just break the gears in for me, at least the first 50 miles or so. We originally planned 3 days for the work so I rented a car to get back and forth since they're an hour from me, but we had a couple parts delays along the way (Nitro kit was missing a seal, and then after getting things buttoned up he went to reboot my CV but the boot kit was the wrong one, and the LC ones were on backorder for days). So after ~12 days of the repair gods conspiring against me I was antsy to get it back and thus I don't think it got the same shakedown time as it should have. Despite that there's some noise in the 20-40mph range it is still quieter than the drivetrain was before (I'm chalking that up to the front wheel bearing). Without the chassis ears it's just a bit of resonance (howl) in that range. Easy enough to miss (or even think it's normal engine noise) in a quick road test unless you're OCD like I am.

Sounds like a solid vendor.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

To be fair I assumed drive vs coast side based on where the pattern seemed to wear, he didn't say which was which. So if there's a mistake/issue in identifying them here, it's mine.

I feel pretty sure the number of attempts was about getting it to where they felt it was spot-on, not about "after 6 attempts this is close enough". If it was about just being done with the job they could've used an aftermarket CV boot for instance instead of keeping my truck for an extra 4-5 days and then offering to cover the extra rental time.

I don't need ammunition. They said no problem, bring it back, we'll make sure it's right and you're happy. I fully trust they'll get it dialed in. My hope was that having a few eyes on this there might be some consensus that "pinion depth is a bit too much" or "bearing preload is a bit too tight" or "hey I've had this and on the 200 you need to make sure you do X differently than on the 100-series" and thus help cut the re-work. As I said they've done lots of gears on Tundras and other trucks with the same 9" clamshell but not many 200s yet.

TBH I should've had one of the guys there just break the gears in for me, at least the first 50 miles or so. We originally planned 3 days for the work so I rented a car to get back and forth since they're an hour from me, but we had a couple parts delays along the way (Nitro kit was missing a seal, and then after getting things buttoned up he went to reboot my CV but the boot kit was the wrong one, and the LC ones were on backorder for days). So after ~12 days of the repair gods conspiring against me I was antsy to get it back and thus I don't think it got the same shakedown time as it should have. Despite that there's some noise in the 20-40mph range it is still quieter than the drivetrain was before (I'm chalking that up to the front wheel bearing). Without the chassis ears it's just a bit of resonance (howl) in that range. Easy enough to miss (or even think it's normal engine noise) in a quick road test unless you're OCD like I am.

No worries, I wasn’t saying they did 6 and said they didn’t care, I said that it’s exhausting to do 6 and they thought they got it right. But they got coast side looking good, if it was drive side. Common mistake when working on front and rear diffs after a long day.

The “ammunition” comment wasn’t to use against them. It was for you, because you said you didn’t know how it works.

The shop is taking care of you, that has never been in question. But if you want to actually help a shop, and the tech who probably knows what he is doing, know what you are talking about. That way, you can speak the same language. I’m not trying to bust your balls. Far from it, I was legitimately trying to help you.

 

[linuxgod]

Hey man, I wasn’t saying they did 6 and said they didn’t care, I said that it’s exhausting to do 6 and they thought they got it right. But they got coast side looking good, if it was drive side. Common mistake when working on front and rear diffs after a long day.

The “ammunition” comment wasn’t to use against them. It was for you, because you said you didn’t know how it works.

Here is some truly friendly advise. If you’re not a subject matter expert, how are you a validation authority?

The shop is taking care of you, that has never been in question. But if you want to actually help a shop and the tech who probably knows what he is doing, know what you are talking about. That way, you can speak the same language. I’m not trying to bust your balls. Far from it, I was legitimately trying to educate you, because you said you didn’t know how it works. I thought this was a forum where we share technical knowledge... not just “will 35s fit.”

Hey sorry man, I mis-read "ammo" to mean "here's what you need to convince the shop they need to help you" and "did 6" to mean "f-it that's close enough". I didn't want others to get the impression they weren't skilled, or being helpful, or going to address it. Stupid internet, I know if we were talking in person I would've interpreted that differently.

Yeah I'm no expert at this stuff. I've rebuilt a motor before and like others I learned a lot by ultimately redoing what I did the first time. Wisdom is knowledge + experience. Your explanation about how the clamshell fits together is super helpful for me to understand what's involved. So now I have a little bit of knowledge (always a dangerous thing) and extremely limited experience. You've probably forgotten way more than I'll ever learn about this stuff, and I'm really appreciative of all the knowledge that you guys share. Also, "it'll totally fit 35s".

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Hey sorry man, I mis-read "ammo" to mean "here's what you need to convince the shop they need to help you" and "did 6" to mean "f-it that's close enough". I didn't want others to get the impression they weren't skilled, or being helpful, or going to address it. Stupid internet, I know if we were talking in person I would've interpreted that differently.

Yeah I'm no expert at this stuff. I've rebuilt a motor before and like others I learned a lot by ultimately redoing what I did the first time. Wisdom is knowledge + experience. Your explanation about how the clamshell fits together is super helpful for me to understand what's involved. So now I have a little bit of knowledge (always a dangerous thing) and extremely limited experience. You've probably forgotten way more than I'll ever learn about this stuff, and I'm really appreciative of all the knowledge that you guys share. Also, "it'll totally fit 35s".

Oh I totally know you are easy going, I wanted to make sure I didn’t come off bad. Like you said, not talking in person really makes things worse.

Let us know what they do different to correct it. It helps everyone.

 

[JKite]

I just had my passenger rear wheel bearing replaced at nearly 127k miles.

Started off as a clicky-rattle, similar to Radman but over 20mph, which I could only really hear with the windows down driving next to a wall. It seemed to get a bit noisier over the past few thousand miles, but no other effects.

I checked everything in that passenger rear area for what could be causing, but my local shop confirmed it was the wheel bearing.

Smooth sailing now, just wanted to share experience for others.

 

[linuxgod]

Figured I'd provide an update for those following along. Got the truck back again today. It is now very quiet. I'd forgotten just how quiet the interior of the LC is, honestly, given how long I'd been mistaking bearing noise for bad tires. I could tell it was improved even with the front diff noise, but now... wow.

I can go into detail if someone would like, but the short of it was that the pinion bearing preload was too loose. The shop had torqued it, but there's a seal that is supposed to be *slightly* recessed and apparently the one in the kit was actually slightly taller than the OEM. So while preload was being set, it was actually the flange hitting the seal and not the bearing. In the final reassembly he set the preload without the seal, then reinstalled the seal before buttoning everything back up.

After reassembling he put ~25 miles on it over several trips. He noticed a bit of noise over ~40-45mph, so to confirm it was tires and not anything drivetrain-related he put a set of factory wheels/tires he had in the shop on and drove around. With those it was silent. (it's comical seeing my rig back on OEM wheels and 31s now btw, like a monkey on a tricycle).

So yeah, gears are silent, tires are slightly noisy (though not bad for 45k miles), bearings are quiet, and I'm now working on the gear break-in period. Hoping to get another ~350 miles on it in the next couple weeks, and then my 3 short trailer towing jaunts, so I can swap fluid and then try a few 0-60 times

 

[bloc]

Nice! Yeah, when I got that new rear bearing in I couldn’t believe how much quieter it was. I guess it makes sense with these failures ramping up slowly

 

[linuxgod]

Nice! Yeah, when I got that new rear bearing in I couldn’t believe how much quieter it was. I guess it makes sense with these failures ramping up slowly

Yeah we definitely become accustom to the noise over time. It's also hard to distinguish tire noise from bearing noise, IMO. If I was running the factory Bridgestone tires I might have thought it was a bearing issue sooner, but given I have A/T tires I just assumed they'd gotten progressively noisier over time. But no, definitely if the noise is extremely constant in its tone at a given MPH, in the future I'd hook up the chassis ears and listen for bearing noise.