Bad News today - Rear Diff toast? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Hokie LX
- Start date
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S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
text me / call me tomorrow and let’s chat. 910200seventhreesixfive
da ***... did they give you a break down of whats what??
lt1fire
SILVER Star
Yeah that's high even with labor added in.
When I was shopping about getting the TJM locker put in the front of my 100. I was quoted by ZUK $250 for installation. Now this was me removing my front housing myself and sending it to him with the locker but still. Torfab quoted me about the same for the same service.
Seeing as how the rear diff is much easier to get to and remove than the front I can't imagine where the rest of their quote comes from.
When I was shopping about getting the TJM locker put in the front of my 100. I was quoted by ZUK $250 for installation. Now this was me removing my front housing myself and sending it to him with the locker but still. Torfab quoted me about the same for the same service.
Seeing as how the rear diff is much easier to get to and remove than the front I can't imagine where the rest of their quote comes from.
Green Hell Mustang
Designer, Hack Photographer
Nah man, that quote is right on the money. You've got to factor in lots of things that nobody thinks about
- Finding the YouTube video of how to remove the diff from a UZJ100, because it's not a Jeep.
- Start removing the diff from a UZJ100
- Rewatch said YouTube video
- Downloading the FSM 'cuz the content creator forgot to film something.
- Find the YouTube video on how to remove the ring and pinion.
- Lunchtime...can't clock out for that
- Watch the ring and pinion video again 'cuz you forgot what you just watched.
- Read the FSM again
- Beer 'o clock
- Nap time following beer 'o clock
Can't forget those things.
lt1fire
SILVER Star
Its always beer o'clock at torfab.... lol
Hokie LX
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #30
Got a new axle today. 128k-ish miles. No rust and it came with calipers which is nice because I need to replace one of mine that has a seized bleeder plug. Also picked up a set of 100-series rear springs to replace my LX springs if they won’t jack it up too high. I know they’re a higher rate.
Im also in talks with Fred Anderson also about cause of my diff failure. Seeing as it’s so uncommon on these trucks and happened not long after they rebuilt the axle, I’m wondering if they didn’t fill it back up all the way with new fluid. I got home the other day and found I needed to add almost 2qts to it since they didn’t top it off when we diagnosed the diff issue. We’ll see how that goes. I’m hoping they help me out since I just spent $1500 on new bearings and seals 5k miles ago..
Im also in talks with Fred Anderson also about cause of my diff failure. Seeing as it’s so uncommon on these trucks and happened not long after they rebuilt the axle, I’m wondering if they didn’t fill it back up all the way with new fluid. I got home the other day and found I needed to add almost 2qts to it since they didn’t top it off when we diagnosed the diff issue. We’ll see how that goes. I’m hoping they help me out since I just spent $1500 on new bearings and seals 5k miles ago..
Hokie LX
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #31
Well @S4Cruiser , I got motivated this evening...
Tore the old axle out and slapped the new one in. It's all located and what not but will hook up the brake lines, speed sensors and other misc. items tomorrow.
Old Axle vs. New
Also snagged some springs from a 2003 Land Cruiser (non-AHC) from the junk yard for cheap so threw those in to try out. Going to play around with the AHC pressures to see if it helps or if it's too springy. LX springs on the right, LC springs on the left. The idea is that the LC springs didn't have AHC to help out so they're stiffer and *should* provide a little relief on the AHC system and help with towing.
But....just in case, I also threw in some Air Lift air bags that I ordered. I'll be towing my autocross car around a few places this summer and last time I towed by Dad's Austin Healey 3000 up to VA, the AHC defaulted into low a few times. This should solve that issue! New axle located.
Really need to get some POR on it. Looks very out of place since the rest of the underside is POR'd
Tore the old axle out and slapped the new one in. It's all located and what not but will hook up the brake lines, speed sensors and other misc. items tomorrow.
Old Axle vs. New
Also snagged some springs from a 2003 Land Cruiser (non-AHC) from the junk yard for cheap so threw those in to try out. Going to play around with the AHC pressures to see if it helps or if it's too springy. LX springs on the right, LC springs on the left. The idea is that the LC springs didn't have AHC to help out so they're stiffer and *should* provide a little relief on the AHC system and help with towing.
But....just in case, I also threw in some Air Lift air bags that I ordered. I'll be towing my autocross car around a few places this summer and last time I towed by Dad's Austin Healey 3000 up to VA, the AHC defaulted into low a few times. This should solve that issue! New axle located.
Really need to get some POR on it. Looks very out of place since the rest of the underside is POR'd
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S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
Well, dang. You did get motivated. Sorry I hadn’t gotten back with you yet this week...I’ve been busy dealing with an investigation at work.
What bikes do you have?
What bikes do you have?
Mauser
Supporting Vendor
I put some well used 80 series rear coils on my LX with AHC. If I didn't have the extra weight from my bumper the hydraulic pressures would be too low for the AHC to function properly. From what I have read the 80 series springs have less spring than the 100 series. You may have to add a lot of weight to get your pressures right.
Hokie LX
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #34
no worries man. I have a BMW S1000R. Planning on 2 track days this weekend if the weather holds out.
I’m also babysitting my brothers 1200GS while he’s in CA for the foreseeable future.
Good to know. I was reading more and more last night and was seeing that it may be too much spring. I'll try them out and crank the TB's a little to see if I can get a workable pressure. If not, I'll go back to the LX coils until I find reasons to finally buy a rear bumper, if ever.
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Hokie LX
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #35
Well didn't get to finish up today as I had wanted. Fought the panhard bar for longer than I care to admit and, as usual, had to undo and redo a couple of items to get them done in the right order... It really wouldn't be a DIY job if everything went absolutely smoothly!
Seems like the panhard bar is tweaked as it wouldn't line up! Even when the length was correct, the bar itself was twisted inside the mount and wouldn't seat. Ended up using some redneck engineering with a ratchet strap to hold length and a pair of vice grips on the bar itself to twist it as I fit the bolt through. PITA!
All that is left is to put the tires on, lower it down and bleed the brakes. Then I need to finish plumbing the new airbags. Everything else is buttoned up and torqued.
Seems like the panhard bar is tweaked as it wouldn't line up! Even when the length was correct, the bar itself was twisted inside the mount and wouldn't seat. Ended up using some redneck engineering with a ratchet strap to hold length and a pair of vice grips on the bar itself to twist it as I fit the bolt through. PITA!
All that is left is to put the tires on, lower it down and bleed the brakes. Then I need to finish plumbing the new airbags. Everything else is buttoned up and torqued.
Hokie LX
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #36
Ok it's all back together and running but I have an issue.
When going over uneven bumps, I'm feeling something shift in the rear end but also feel it in the wheel. I know this is super vague but any advice for things to look for?
The bolts on the panhard bar and upper and lower bars are all tight. Going to disconnect the sway bar next and see if that affects it...
Wondering if I cracked a bushing or something during reassembly.
When going over uneven bumps, I'm feeling something shift in the rear end but also feel it in the wheel. I know this is super vague but any advice for things to look for?
The bolts on the panhard bar and upper and lower bars are all tight. Going to disconnect the sway bar next and see if that affects it...
Wondering if I cracked a bushing or something during reassembly.
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Green Hell Mustang
Designer, Hack Photographer
Is there any sound that comes from the shifting feeling in the truck? Also, did you torque the linkage to spec on the ground or with the truck in the air?
Hokie LX
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #38
My tired mind completely forgot to torque on the ground...I'll do that in the morning. There is an audible clunk when "it" shifts.
From my sports car days and having to torque the control arms with the car on the ground, I'm surprised I forgot to do that...
Took the truck for a test drive for about 50 miles and all seems well. Tracks straight with no weird noises or behavior. The fluid that came out of the diff was slightly concerning though. Not sure if maybe some water got in it. The plug had some "greasy metal" on it (no big chunks but like small shavings) and the color was like an orange/brown instead of the usual gold or dark brown color. I refilled it and am doing about 600 miles this weekend for various motorcycle track days so I'll change it again afterwards and see how it looks.
