Bad Day... Head work or (Second!) Replacement Engine? (2 Viewers)

[dace voit]

Jasper rebuild? Nope. Dump that thing for a good used swap. Like @2001LC said, rebuilders don't typically use OEM parts or get near the spec required for a lasting build. They're about turning a profit on the rebuild. Cheap parts, but attractive price compared to OEM. Even a US built 2UZ will be TONS better than that.

 

[FrankieJoe14]

I have been searching car-part tonight.

I see a pull from:
2004 LX - listed for $1300 with 88k miles. Out of NYC. Sounds too good to be true there. Comes w 90 day warranty.
2004 LC - Listed for $900 with 130k miles. Out of south jersey.

Unfortunately parts out of NYC are a little....suspect. Really doubt that motor has only 88k on it.

Are there any LC specific shops on this forum that have a tested/known pull? The 4runner group had JDM engines that most people used but I don't see that with the LC.

I need some help finding a good one.

 

[FrankieJoe14]

Or there is something like this.

LX470 TUNDRA SEQUOIA 4.7L ENGINE 90K MILES 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 | eBay

 

[FrankieJoe14]

OK boys. I am replying to myself but just in case someone is following

I posted on the LC facebook group seeking a known good engine with success. Engine is coming out of a 98 with 133k miles, fresh timing belt. Engine was in use at the start of the summer and the seller is an enthusiast and a member here as well.. so I am hopeful. He said its going to come as complete as possible - so coils, PS pump, alternator, full wiring harness, AC compressor, etc.

I have never swapped an engine before myself, but I will have experienced help. Any suggestions on parts i should order in advance?

I am paging through the thread from @2001LC to get a feel for things.

 

[2001LC]

You'll not need much in the way of parts, as 98 is a drop in.

You'll probably want to keep your throttle body so get a new T-body gasket.

If exhaust manifold is included you'll need the flange gaskets to connect to pipes. If not you'll need exhaust manifold gaskets.

Find out if head cover gasket and spark plug tube seal have been done. It's a low mile engine but old, so you may consider R&R those at minimum re torque the bolts to spec.

Consider new engine mounts as very easy job while on stand.

Closely inspect the drive belt tensioner and fan bracket while on stand, again easy replacement while engine out.

Check all rubber hoses and heater tees while out as well.

If any steering rack work is needed, now is the time.

Most do job, by leaving transmission in the rig disconnecting at bellhousing. This makes butting up a bit difficult during install. Do not force in, do not use bolts to pull, take your time and finesse in. Start by making sure torque converter is seated all the way into transmission.

 

[2001LC]

One note: I bought engine out of WI (rust belt) a little bit pitted, but worked out. I would have preferred a Southern or Western engine.

You do not want engine that's been exposed to rain, snow or washed. If water gets in you have two weeks to get running or risk of smoking goes up.

Most on mud a really good people and trustworthy. But run the VIN# at carfax and Toyota/Lexus History.

 

[FrankieJoe14]

So just a HUGE update - since I enjoy when people update their posts with outcomes I had to as well. This is going to be a little long but may help some people.

What a roller coaster ride this engine swap had been. When i got the call from fastenal they told me that "the crate has damage but the engine appears fine" This is what I rolled up to.

The engine had shifted in transit (or may have been dropped) and the crate was basically disintegrated. It was sitting on the oil pan, the timing belt tensioner, and the alternator. After talking with fastenal, i basically had no recourse except to accept the shipment. After a discussion with the seller, off we went.

I made the cruiser carry back its new heart to my house.

Of course - when it rains it pours. When pulling into my garage i noticed that my steering rack was leaking too. Add that to the order sheet.

The parts - oh man the parts list for this was way way more than I expected to get into. Seriously. I was in a time crunch to get this running before the first snowfall. All parts were ordered from oempartsource.com, which I am big fan of.

Part Number Part Name Price Quantity Total
Engine, 130k, $1,075.00 1 $1,075.00
44360-60210 Reservoir $171.94 1 $171.94
45047-69100 Outer Tie Rod $57.52 1 $57.52
45046-69195 Outer Tie Rod $57.52 1 $57.52
90170-20003 Nut Hexagon $1.53 4 $6.12
45517-60010 Pressure Line Grommet $25.83 1 $25.83
12204-50020 PCV Valve $5.45 1 $5.45
90480-18001 Grommet $3.96 1 $3.96
44250-60050 Steering Gear $488.80 1 $488.80
90080-12007 Exhaust Manifold Stud $5.50 6 $33.00
90080-17187 Exhaust Pipe Nut $1.44 17 $24.48
90080-12008 Exhaust Manifold Stud $3.19 13 $41.47
90916-02586 Serpentine Belt $40.03 1 $40.03
16401-67150 Radiator Cap $10.67 1 $10.67
16571-50150 Upper Hose $18.17 1 $18.17
16572-50150 Lower Hose $25.89 1 $25.89
87248-60460 Pipe Water $8.07 2 $16.14
22271-50042 Gasket $17.39 1 $17.39
90080-43036 Gasket Left $9.10 2 $18.20
12361-50121 Front Mount, LEFT $111.90 2 $223.80
12371-50081 Rear Mount $69.21 1 $69.21
23300-50090 Fuel Filter $30.12 1 $30.12
17173-50021 Exhaust Manifold Gasket $15.47 2 $30.94
90080-12008 Exhaust Manifold Stud $3.19 3 $9.57
90080-17187 Exhaust Pipe Nut $1.44 5 $7.20
Denso 2213152 Radiator $156.79 1 $156.79
Red Coolant $12.50 4 $50.00
Mobil 1 5w30 & filter $40.00 1 $40.00
Denso 3297 plugs $7.35 8 $58.80

TOTAL = $2814.01.

I've never swapped an engine before. It took me three weekends with my uncle and cousin taking our time. We strategically labeled each part and hose that was disconnected, made a cardboard list of our order and bagged and labeled all the bolts. It was a great learning experience and I only wish i took more pictures.

I swapped over the alternator, since the potential for damage during transit was high, and my busted engine had a bigger alt than the swap. We left the AC compressor condenser in place and zip-tied it up for the swap. The used engine came without exhaust manifolds so those were swapped over. The oil pressure sending unit got damaged in transit too, that was swapped. I took this time to change plugs and check and clean all coils. I swapped a few coils that were turning brown with the ones i bought new a few weeks back. Motor mounts were replaced. As per recommendation from 2001LC we left the trans in place and just pulled the motor.

OH - somewhere along the lines from 1998 (donor engine) to 2001 they changed the plug for the transmission. So the WHOLE WIRING HARNESS got swapped as well, for ONE plug.

DEFINITELY do your steering rack when swapping the engine. Its worth the coin to not do it with the engine in. I tried to clean the power steering reservoir but it was so caked with crap I decided to replace it, well because new rack.

The radiator that was in the truck was 8 years old, so i figured now is a good of time as any to replace it. Heater tees got done as well. As did the serp belt.

The trans bolts are a pain in the ass to get. I recommend some impact rated U-joints and several extensions.

All exhaust manifold bolts came out easy EXCEPT for ONE, which had to be burned out.

Dropped the motor in, reconnected everything.

It. Started. On. The. First. Shot. I could not believe it.

Not soon after my first burn off and test drive, the check engine light came on.

Great. Knock sensors. A quick search here led me to realize these were UNDER the manifold, or the worst spot ever.

So another weekend spend tearing into the manifold of my freshly replaced engine. It looks like Minnie, Mickey, and the rest of the mouse gang went to town on my engine wherever it was stored. They chewed the whole harness and wire from the knock sensor back to the Y- connection at the starter. I also did not like the condition of the starter, so I pulled the whole starter and cable assembly off the old motor and swapped it in. Another ~$100 in parts later in new manifold gaskets and connectors.

The manifold removal is a real pain in the ass.

FINALLY I could say the engine swap was complete. No check engine lights! Runs like a champ. I changed the throttle at this time too, and between functioning knock sensors and a better throttle, it runs so much smoother.

If this was to happen again - I would be handing the keys off to a mechanic for sure. Or just roll it out back and set it on fire. We'll see.

Hope you enjoyed the read.

 

[aging fleet]

Wow, nice work. I can only imagine how much this would've cost had a shop done all the work, I assume you saved thousands.

 

[MountaineerLC]

Congrats on a job well done!

I've done two engine swaps myself (on Rovers, not Cruisers, hence why I'm here) and they're not much fun. It, however, is very satisfying to fire that baby up when it's all finished!

 

[roma042987]

nice job! i just did this too a little over a week ago. I searched painstakingly for a good donor engine too and finally found one that i could nail down history and records for through lexus drivers site and the vin plate on the cylinder head. It's so much easier doing that steering rack with the engine out.

We left the AC condenser in place and zip-tied it up for the swap.

I guess you're referring to the compressor here correct? What did you mean by one of your engines having a larger alternator? Was it an upgrade somebody did at some point?

Engine locked up 99 land cruiser build up

and this one a few months ago

new life for a 98 land cruiser

 

[FrankieJoe14]

Thanks for the kind words guys. I should have spent longer searching for a cleaner engine - but again I was in a bit of a time crunch.

Yes, i meant the compressor. I have such good AC in the truck i didn't want to have to mess with any of the sealed system. Worked out great.

It appears through some quick searching, that the 98 donor motor came with an 80 amp alt, but the 01 motor had a 100amp. If you search the denso site you see this too. Sounds like Toyota did it that way.

For anyone doing this in the future, i think 98-99 and 00-01 are easier interchanges. It took us like 3 extra hours to swap just the wiring harness over. Bonus you get the larger alt and the better throttle.

 

[2001LC]

***

Yes, i meant the compressor. I have such good AC in the truck i didn't want to have to mess with any of the sealed system. Worked out great.

******.

***i just did this too a little over a week ago. *******



I guess you're referring to the compressor here correct? *****

Engine locked up 99 land cruiser build up

and this one a few months ago

new life for a 98 land cruiser

Did you guy's have any issue clearing the A/C HP pipe that runs across front-top of radiator while pulling/dropping in engine?

I pulled radiator and A/C HP pipe to get out of way, was replacing radiator anyway. I was also doing job solo, so was concerned I'd not enough hands to guide everything. But I was wondering if I could have cleared easily, without disconnecting A/C HP pipe. So I had to learn and tool up for A/C system charging.

 

[roma042987]

Did you guy's have any issue clearing the A/C HP pipe that runs across front-top of radiator while pulling/dropping in engine?

I pulled radiator and A/C HP pipe to get out of way, was replacing radiator anyway. I was also doing job solo, so was concerned I'd not enough hands to guide everything. But I was wondering if I could have cleared easily, without disconnecting A/C HP pipe. So I had to learn and tool up for A/C system charging.

It's no issue at all. The first engine i did on the black truck i didn't have an extra set of hands. I just set the compressor on the driver side where the battery tray normally sits.
I did learn one thing doing it this last time around and that was that it's easiest to install the fan and serpentine belt, then put the shroud in and then the radiator. In that particular order. This way you're not fighting with fitting the fan with the shroud in place or having to install the belt with everything else in the way.

 

[FrankieJoe14]

I left the HP pipe there and just zip tied the compressor to the battery tray eyelet - I did not want to deal with recharging or anything with the AC

I also agree with Roma above - the fan, then shroud, then rad AFTER engine is in. We had enough room - definitely needed the load leveler with the engine hoist though.

 

[yi2936]

what are you going to do with the old engine

 

[FrankieJoe14]

what are you going to do with the old engine

It's still sitting in the corner of my barn. If you are in the north jersey area you are welcome to make an offer and come get it!

The wife hates it

 

[FrankieJoe14]

Can you even do anything with it after 3 years?

Edit: 4 years?