So just a HUGE update - since I enjoy when people update their posts with outcomes I had to as well. This is going to be a little long but may help some people.
What a roller coaster ride this engine swap had been. When i got the call from fastenal they told me that "the crate has damage but the engine appears fine" This is what I rolled up to.
The engine had shifted in transit (or may have been dropped) and the crate was basically disintegrated. It was sitting on the oil pan, the timing belt tensioner, and the alternator. After talking with fastenal, i basically had no recourse except to accept the shipment. After a discussion with the seller, off we went.
I made the cruiser carry back its new heart to my house.
Of course - when it rains it pours. When pulling into my garage i noticed that my steering rack was leaking too. Add that to the order sheet.
The parts - oh man the parts list for this was way way more than I expected to get into. Seriously. I was in a time crunch to get this running before the first snowfall. All parts were ordered from oempartsource.com, which I am big fan of.
Part Number Part Name Price Quantity Total
Engine, 130k, $1,075.00 1 $1,075.00
44360-60210 Reservoir $171.94 1 $171.94
45047-69100 Outer Tie Rod $57.52 1 $57.52
45046-69195 Outer Tie Rod $57.52 1 $57.52
90170-20003 Nut Hexagon $1.53 4 $6.12
45517-60010 Pressure Line Grommet $25.83 1 $25.83
12204-50020 PCV Valve $5.45 1 $5.45
90480-18001 Grommet $3.96 1 $3.96
44250-60050 Steering Gear $488.80 1 $488.80
90080-12007 Exhaust Manifold Stud $5.50 6 $33.00
90080-17187 Exhaust Pipe Nut $1.44 17 $24.48
90080-12008 Exhaust Manifold Stud $3.19 13 $41.47
90916-02586 Serpentine Belt $40.03 1 $40.03
16401-67150 Radiator Cap $10.67 1 $10.67
16571-50150 Upper Hose $18.17 1 $18.17
16572-50150 Lower Hose $25.89 1 $25.89
87248-60460 Pipe Water $8.07 2 $16.14
22271-50042 Gasket $17.39 1 $17.39
90080-43036 Gasket Left $9.10 2 $18.20
12361-50121 Front Mount, LEFT $111.90 2 $223.80
12371-50081 Rear Mount $69.21 1 $69.21
23300-50090 Fuel Filter $30.12 1 $30.12
17173-50021 Exhaust Manifold Gasket $15.47 2 $30.94
90080-12008 Exhaust Manifold Stud $3.19 3 $9.57
90080-17187 Exhaust Pipe Nut $1.44 5 $7.20
Denso 2213152 Radiator $156.79 1 $156.79
Red Coolant $12.50 4 $50.00
Mobil 1 5w30 & filter $40.00 1 $40.00
Denso 3297 plugs $7.35 8 $58.80
TOTAL = $2814.01.
I've never swapped an engine before. It took me three weekends with my uncle and cousin taking our time. We strategically labeled each part and hose that was disconnected, made a cardboard list of our order and bagged and labeled all the bolts. It was a great learning experience and I only wish i took more pictures.
I swapped over the alternator, since the potential for damage during transit was high, and my busted engine had a bigger alt than the swap. We left the AC compressor
condenser in place and zip-tied it up for the swap. The used engine came without exhaust manifolds so those were swapped over. The oil pressure sending unit got damaged in transit too, that was swapped. I took this time to change plugs and check and clean all coils. I swapped a few coils that were turning brown with the ones i bought new a few weeks back. Motor mounts were replaced. As per recommendation from 2001LC we left the trans in place and just pulled the motor.
OH - somewhere along the lines from 1998 (donor engine) to 2001 they changed the plug for the transmission. So the WHOLE WIRING HARNESS got swapped as well, for ONE plug.
DEFINITELY do your steering rack when swapping the engine. Its worth the coin to not do it with the engine in. I tried to clean the power steering reservoir but it was so caked with crap I decided to replace it, well because new rack.
The radiator that was in the truck was 8 years old, so i figured now is a good of time as any to replace it. Heater tees got done as well. As did the serp belt.
The trans bolts are a pain in the ass to get. I recommend some impact rated U-joints and several extensions.
All exhaust manifold bolts came out easy EXCEPT for ONE, which had to be burned out.
Dropped the motor in, reconnected everything.
It. Started. On. The. First. Shot. I could not believe it.
Not soon after my first burn off and test drive, the check engine light came on.
Great. Knock sensors. A quick search here led me to realize these were UNDER the manifold, or the worst spot ever.
So another weekend spend tearing into the manifold of my freshly replaced engine. It looks like Minnie, Mickey, and the rest of the mouse gang went to town on my engine wherever it was stored. They chewed the whole harness and wire from the knock sensor back to the Y- connection at the starter. I also did not like the condition of the starter, so I pulled the whole starter and cable assembly off the old motor and swapped it in. Another ~$100 in parts later in new manifold gaskets and connectors.
The manifold removal is a real pain in the ass.
FINALLY I could say the engine swap was complete. No check engine lights! Runs like a champ. I changed the throttle at this time too, and between functioning knock sensors and a better throttle, it runs so much smoother.
If this was to happen again - I would be handing the keys off to a mechanic for sure. Or just roll it out back and set it on fire. We'll see.
Hope you enjoyed the read.
