Back on the Road! But sloppy steering...what to do?

[cruiser enthuiser]

Hey All...I could use some help and advice. I am happy to report that after several months of work, I have my '68 up and running! With the TBI conversion now mostly complete it runs like a whipped dog .

Unfortunately, the steering is sloppy as hell and frankly a bit scary at speed as any slight rut in the road sends me veering. I am not knowledgeable about axles, steering arms, knuckles, etc. but I've noticed significant leakage of grease/oil on the back of the front, right wheel. Also, I'm wondering if my steering stablizer is shot. It's a Rancho installed by the PO and may be 8-12 yrs old. I do have power steering by the way and it seems to work well.

My questions:
1. Should I rebuild the knuckles? Is it necessary to replace the wheel bearings at the same time?
2. Should I replace the steering stablizer? Is there a way to test it?
3. What else should I be looking at to improve/correct steering?
4. What else should I consider doing to the front axle while I'm in there as preventative maintenance?

Keep in mind my budget is limited - the front disc conversion will have to wait . Also, if I have missed an obvious thread in FAQ/Tech go ahead and blast me, but I did search.

Thanks for your help,
Ed

 

[JohnnyC]

have you checked the play at the center link? its adjustable

 

[JohnnyC]

also check drag link play...a "penny fix" will fix it

 

[Coolerman]

Yes, rebuild the knuckles. You have grease leaking out. Though could be brake fluid.

Unless the wheel bearings are worn leave them in.

Drag link joint as mentioned. Tie rods ends could also be worn. Cheap to replace but can be a pain in the azz to actually do it.

Your steering stabilizer is the least of your worries. Do all the above first. To check it: Pull it off and test it like any shock. It should resist movement in both directions, and not be leaking any fluid.

Spring eye bushings that are worn can cause wondering. Cheap parts but again can be a pain.

Long shackles? May need a steel axle shim to correct pinion angle. This can also contribute to wandering.

 

[cruiser_guy]

If you did a lift you may have the shims in backwards as well.

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

If you did a lift you may have the shims in backwards as well.

No lift. Just old worn out components. I appreciate the advice so far. Will check drag link/center link when I get home. Also shopping around for knuckle rebuild kits.

 

[nspctr1]

Center Arm and TRE's are the most common parts to cause this imho. Get with Kurt at cruiseroutfitters for these and a knuckle rebuild kit but, if your going to do the mini conversion you may want to wait on the knuckle rebuild kit as you will just tear it all down again. While in there for the rebuild buy the bearings with the kit.... my .02

 

[JB740i]

The biggest contributor to the slop in mine was the rag joint next to the steering box. Replacing it was cheap to do but not the easiest task.

But it's easy to move the wheel back and forth and see if that's giving you any play.

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

Center Arm and TRE's are the most common parts to cause this imho. Get with Kurt at cruiseroutfitters for these and a knuckle rebuild kit but, if your going to do the mini conversion you may want to wait on the knuckle rebuild kit as you will just tear it all down again. While in there for the rebuild buy the bearings with the kit.... my .02

X2 on cruiseroutfitters Check at marks offroad as well.

 

[splib]

Check your caster angle..sounds like you need shims.

 

[65swb45]

Since you've used the key words "68" and "power steering", it's safe to say we're talking about a Saginaw conversion. Therefore, you would not have a center arm to look at.

You can still do a simple check on the steering box and tie rod ends. From Section 120 of my FAQ:

Each 'link' in the system is designed to do a simple task: take motion from one direction and change it into motion in another direction, with no excessive freeplay in the operation.

At the steering box, motion traveling vertically down the column is translated into horizontal motion out the sector shaft. With one hand on the steering wheel, simply turn the wheel back and forth and see how far it rotates before the sector shaft begins to rotate. This freeplay is in the steering box. Rebuild or replace if freeplay exceeds 1" of steering wheel rotation.

Likewise, the drag link and relay rod ends take motion from one direction and redirect it in another. The tie rod ends are comprised of a ball and socket assembly. If they are worn, you can usually see the socket bobbing up and down on the ball, or moving side to side on it if someone else turns the wheel back and forth a few inches while you're observing it. The drag links are rebuildable, the tie rod ends not.

Once you've checked out the tie rod ends [AND replaced them if necessary] you can properly set your toe in, which should greatly aid further evaluation of your steering situation.

Best

Mark A.

 

[cruiser enthuiser]

Since you've used the key words "68" and "power steering", it's safe to say we're talking about a Saginaw conversion. Therefore, you would not have a center arm to look at.

You can still do a simple check on the steering box and tie rod ends. From Section 120 of my FAQ:

Each 'link' in the system is designed to do a simple task: take motion from one direction and change it into motion in another direction, with no excessive freeplay in the operation.

At the steering box, motion traveling vertically down the column is translated into horizontal motion out the sector shaft. With one hand on the steering wheel, simply turn the wheel back and forth and see how far it rotates before the sector shaft begins to rotate. This freeplay is in the steering box. Rebuild or replace if freeplay exceeds 1" of steering wheel rotation.

Likewise, the drag link and relay rod ends take motion from one direction and redirect it in another. The tie rod ends are comprised of a ball and socket assembly. If they are worn, you can usually see the socket bobbing up and down on the ball, or moving side to side on it if someone else turns the wheel back and forth a few inches while you're observing it. The drag links are rebuildable, the tie rod ends not.

Once you've checked out the tie rod ends [AND replaced them if necessary] you can properly set your toe in, which should greatly aid further evaluation of your steering situation.

Best

Mark A.

Great information. Thanks to all for the info. Hopefully I will have time this weekend to really get into the steering and may come back with more questions . Thanks again - Ed