Axle Knuckle Pushing Wheel Right?

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I just cought up with Mud.
I have looked at that 80 for other folks. It has been beaten hard. I'm going to recommend replacing those control arms with Delta or at least stock. Way too many hard trips on this rig.
Send me a pm if you would like to come by the shop the first of next week.
Casey...
 
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577FB4A1-4727-4901-8DE7-65AEAAF6CB8B.jpeg

Current situation. Cannot get the sleeve washers off. Got one off after a couple knocks with a chisel and hammer.. others won’t budge. Currently letting soak in WD-40
 
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View attachment 3099829
Current situation. Cannot get the sleeve washers off. Got one off after a couple knocks with a chisel and hammer.. others won’t budge. Currently letting soak in WD-40
Yeah it’s completely normal to fight the cone washers. In Otramms video you can see he gives a few suggestions on how to free them up, but it mostly comes down to whacking the hub in the right spot with a hammer and they will eventually yield. I personally use an air hammer and vibrate them free as it only takes a few seconds. Do not hit the studs or you will create a bunch more headache for yourself.
 
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Yeah it’s completely normal to fight the cone washers. In Otramms video you can see he gives a few suggestions on how to free them up, but it mostly comes down to whacking the hub in the right spot with a hammer and they will eventually yield. I personally use an air hammer and vibrate them free as it only takes a few seconds. Do not hit the studs or you will create a bunch more headache for yourself.
I thought it Otramm’s he put a brass hammer to the stud then another hammer to that?

I will try knocking around on the hub housing after while
 
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Just as an FYI it may be the picture, but those spacers look suspect as some of the nuts look to barely be threaded on to the stud. I would remove them if it were me. I’m not a fan of spacers unless they are very high quality and are proven to fit the application and be tested.
 

Broski

I love Wheelin my 80
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Remove the wheel spacer and smack the drive flange square on the side with a brass hammer.
Make sure you put the nuts back on before doing this or the cone washers will fly across the room.
Others will say I'm a hack for doing it this way but it gets it done fast and easy ;)
 
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Remove the wheel spacer and smack the drive flange square on the side with a brass hammer.
Make sure you put the nuts back on before doing this or the cone washers will fly across the room.
Others will say I'm a hack for doing it this way but it gets it done fast and easy ;)
That's how I remove them too. Works a treat.
 
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Just as an FYI it may be the picture, but those spacers look suspect as some of the nuts look to barely be threaded on to the stud. I would remove them if it were me. I’m not a fan of spacers unless they are very high quality and are proven to fit the application and be tested.
Need the spacers for the offset on the 37s

He did some pretty heavy wheeling with these on so I would have to think they are pretty stout. I will check to make sure they’re tight though
 
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Just as an FYI it may be the picture, but those spacers look suspect as some of the nuts look to barely be threaded on to the stud. I would remove them if it were me. I’m not a fan of spacers unless they are very high quality and are proven to fit the application and be tested.
Can confirm they were ON THERE. Had to use an impact wrench to get them off
 
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I’m sure they had locktite on the threads for the nuts. Good to hear they were good and on there!
I re-torqued them to 108ft/lbs. Saw that many others recommended that rating. I gave up on the hubs. Just gonna have pros do it. I don't have the tools to do it safely or the time this week. The driver side one, which was the one leaking grease pretty hard, was tight on the bearing. The passenger side was much cleaner, but 3 of the 6 nuts on the drive flange were actually stripped and didn't fully tighten down. they just kept turning and turning right. so, gonna very slowly drive it over tomorrow and just let the shop get after it. I need the vehicle ready by Oct 7 if possible, and that won't happen at the rate of me working on it. At least for this axle issue. I will do the work on the body and interior restoration, basic engine maintenance, etc.
 

Broski

I love Wheelin my 80
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JMHO
You need to figure out how to work on that axle yourself.
A lot of shops won’t know how to do it right and it’s up to you as the owner to make sure it’s safe.
And if you want to keep running 37s it will require constant maintenance.
If it ever needs work on the trail( it will) you need to know the inner working’s of the axle, you don’t want to be that guy.
There not that many specialty tools required to do the work. You will have a great sense of accomplishment when you do it yourself.
And you have all us Jack asses to help when you need it.
Oh, a full axle rebuild will be $ 800 to $1200
Versus a $250 rebuild kit. 🤷‍♂️
It not a hard job just messy
 
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JMHO
You need to figure out how to work on that axle yourself.
A lot of shops won’t know how to do it right and it’s up to you as the owner to make sure it’s safe.
And if you want to keep running 37s it will require constant maintenance.
If it ever needs work on the trail( it will) you need to know the inner working’s of the axle, you don’t want to be that guy.
There not that many specialty tools required to do the work. You will have a great sense of accomplishment when you do it yourself.
And you have all us Jack asses to help when you need it.
Oh, a full axle rebuild will be $ 800 to $1200
Versus a $250 rebuild kit. 🤷‍♂️
It not a hard job just messy
I understand. I mentally understand how it works. I just don't really have the time to get it done efficiently the next couple of weeks, and with a 4 week window to needing it ready it's probably best to have a shop do it for now. I have read up and watched knuckle and axle rebuilds on it, so I get how it all works together now. So, if a trail repair does need to happen, then I should at least be able to identify. If I had nothing but time I'd still do it myself. My buddy that works on rigs all the time is also really busy and I hate pulling him away from what he's got going on. And I really would need his help, as well.

Btw - only axle housings I can find are $1800 cheapest. How do you figure a full rebuild is only $800-$1200?
 

Broski

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I understand. I mentally understand how it works. I just don't really have the time to get it done efficiently the next couple of weeks, and with a 4 week window to needing it ready it's probably best to have a shop do it for now. I have read up and watched knuckle and axle rebuilds on it, so I get how it all works together now. So, if a trail repair does need to happen, then I should at least be able to identify. If I had nothing but time I'd still do it myself. My buddy that works on rigs all the time is also really busy and I hate pulling him away from what he's got going on. And I really would need his help, as well.

Btw - only axle housings I can find are $1800 cheapest. How do you figure a full rebuild is only $800-$1200?
That's to rebuild the knuckles on a good axle housing.

There was just a used good bear housing for sale for $250 you need to look around. I picked up a set front and rear axles for $700 a few months ago.
1661783158670.png

You just need to look around
 
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That's to rebuild the knuckles on a good axle housing.

There was just a used good bear housing for sale for $250 you need to look around. I picked up a set front and rear axles for $700 a few months ago.
View attachment 3100325
You just need to look around
I do plan on hitting up some scrap yards soon for interior stuff and a couple body panels. So I will also try to grab some axles to have in reserve. Probably not a bad idea
 

Broski

I love Wheelin my 80
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OK, I'm going to try this one more TIME, go back and read post 93.
I highly recommend taking his advice, you really need to dive into this yourself.
You stand a much better chance of getting it done yourself, then having someone else do it for you.

Cruiser Outfitters can get you the parts you need fast !!

As far as a bent axle housing go's the only way I have seen to check it for a bend is with empty third member set up with a peace of dome tubing to go down the center and is more commonly used to make sure your not bending the housing when weld on the axle like installing a truss ;)
1661787735802.png

Unfortunately I don't have a picture of the other side, but you can see the tube sticking out of both sides :cool:
 
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OK, I'm going to try this one more TIME, go back and read post 93.
I highly recommend taking his advice, you really need to dive into this yourself.
You stand a much better chance of getting it done yourself, then having someone else do it for you.

Cruiser Outfitters can get you the parts you need fast !!

As far as a bent axle housing go's the only way I have seen to check it for a bend is with empty third member set up with a peace of dome tubing to go down the center and is more commonly used to make sure your not bending the housing when weld on the axle like installing a truss ;)
View attachment 3100372
Unfortunately I don't have a picture of the other side, but you can see the tube sticking out of both sides :cool:
lol like I said, I would if I had a ton of time and was confident I could get this done quickly and ready in 4 weeks time. I still technically don't even know what the issue is.. for this one, I will have shop do. Maybe I'll rebuild the rear just for funsies when I have time and go through it all at that point. I also still plan on doing the body work myself and like I said restoring the interior myself as well as engine maintenance, etc. This particular issue at this particular time, though, I don't have the time for.
 
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Posting a final update. Got in touch with Potato Launcher and he did the work on my rig. Turns out it seemed to be my rear passenger side control arm was bent pretty good, causing me to be short on that side. He went ahead and did the new knuckles for me which I had already ordered the kit for, fresh bushings for radius arms, fresh bushing and brackets on sway bars, new tie rods, new adjustable rear control arms, new brakes on the front. Drives like it should now!

I cannot express my gratitude for everyone enough here in pointing me in the right direction, and a special thanks to Potato Launcher for being such a blessing and helping me out.

Excited for many adventures ahead and the slow start to fixing up the rest of the rig!
 
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Welcome to the community J. Your 80's previous life was rough. You should be good to go for many more miles now.
Here's more of a break down of what was causing it to pull right.
The bearings, TRE's and knuckles were worn for a typical 265k mile 80 but wasn't causing the issue in question.
The right rear lower control arm was bent enough to make the right side 1/4" shorter both bushings were mush from extended neglect.
The call was made to replace the rear lower control arms with Dobinson adjustable ones. Excellent quality and a direct replacement.

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