Axle bearings & bushing. When should these be replaced? (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

The PM schedule recommends greasing every 30K miles, same as wheel bearings. With the exception of a very few shop, this is over looked by most shops even dealerships.

I like pulling the steering knuckle my first wheel bearing service on all 100 series. Then I can clean and inspect bearing & bushing. But it can be a difficult call and whether to replace.

Here is one case in which a rebuilt FDS (front drive shaft, AKA CV) was used. The re builder paints all axles when they rebuild. I've remove the paint before installing, the best I can. If not removed, the paint rubs off on seals, bearings and hub flange splines.

I'm not sure on this set. Do I replace or are they fine. Seems paint has stained the bearings, and likely races. Is this going to cause more or less fiction, heat, vibration uneven wear. Or protect and run smoother?

Thees feel smooth and roll nicely. My fingernail does not catch as I pull across.

PS

DS

Same DS bearing, different camera angle.

Here's one of the rebuilt FDS (PS). You can see they painted the axle. Paint has rubbed off where axle bearing oil seal rides.

 

[2001LC]

Here is different axle bearing with 350K miles, not properly maintained. Hard to see, but the surface is pitted (damaged). These still had factory grease on them.

Here is brand new Toyota supplied.

 

[gregnash]

What is the process of R&R the needle bearing? Do you need a blind puller to get them out or is there a lip/race that you can get a tool on and work it out?

 

[larryt]

There is a lip that can be hit with a long brass drift from the opposite side. I used the old ones to tap the new ones in. No specialty tools required.

 

[2001LC]

Smaller puller would work. I just use a brass dowel.

 

[flintknapper]

Those look fine to me. Needle bearings are exceedingly tough by design. RUST is their nemesis. With even the slightest amount of lubrication they last a LONG time. The bushing looks fine too.

 

[2001LC]

Those look fine to me. Needle bearings are exceedingly tough by design. RUST is their nemesis. With even the slightest amount of lubrication they last a LONG time. The bushing looks fine too.

Yeah they do look and seem good. It's a hard call this time. The rebuilt FDS have been on for 69K miles. You'd think, if they were running hot, I'd see blue discoloration in the cage by now. I'm going to call CVJ and ask what the paint is. The bushing are near perfect. I really hate to waste a good factory set. So I'm inclined to leave them in. I'm waiting on parts, so I've a few days yet to decided.

 

[flintknapper]

Yeah they do look and seem good. It's a hard call this time. The rebuilt FDS have been on for 69K miles. You'd think, if they were running hot, I'd see blue discoloration in the cage by now. I'm going to call CVJ and ask what the paint is. The bushing are near perfect. I really hate to waste a good factory set. So I'm inclined to leave them in. I'm waiting on parts, so I've a few days yet to decided.

Your call of course, but those parts (bushing, needle bearing) receive so little pressure...that IF kept lubricated they should last a very long time. Many 4x4's don't even have the bushing, just the needle bearing. I have a 70 model (Early Bronco) still running the factory needle bearings in the spindles (50 years) to give you an idea. Dry or rusted needle bearings are another matter...but readily identified as would be the brass/bronze bushing (galling of the surface). I'd leave them alone...but it's one of those things where you already have the steering knuckle out on the table .....so?

 

[gregnash]

I am on the fence about doing this on my truck... Nothing that I can tell indicating that needs done and when I was working on ball joint this weekend the brass bushing seemed to be in decent condition. Just debating because I am going to have everything apart in the first place while replacing axle, hub and wheel bearings.

 

[Moridinbg]

Mine needle bearings were at 260k, when water got into the passenger side bearing due to failed knuckle seal.
The driver side one is perfect and exceptionally smooth. My mechanic told me that he has seen a needle bearing fail only once before, again due to a failed seal. I wouldn't sweat it too much.

 

[2001LC]

I replace about 1 in 40 (20 trucks). Typical reason for replacing, I found them damaged from contamination. When I have replaced, it's actually very easy.

Here's how I inspect:
Inspect axle where bearing rides. I look for scoring, discolor or any damage that indicates a bearing issue.
Clean bearing and inspect. I look for scoring, pitting, discolor or damage. I feel how smooth or not they roll.

The set in OP, is unusual. Because the rebuilt FDS (front drive shaft) were painted (hate that). So I've a supper thin layer of paint or so it appears. Making it difficult to inspect. Also I'm a little uneasy using on new OEM FDS. But at same time I do not like to waste parts.

 

[Moridinbg]

Considering the cost, I would replace just for the peace of mind, due to the contamination. Probably it doesn't have negative side effects, if the rebuilder does it to all, but then i would rather grease my bearings than paint them.

 

[abuck99]

Comparing the pictures of the new cage and bearing against the one youre questioning- Id leave them in and move on to the next item on your punch list.

Originally I thought the leading edges on the cage looked rough- pitted but looking at the brand new cage it looks the same. In fact I dont see much difference. I think you have enough consensus to leave them in.