Average 2F engine temperature

[Beehanger]

Like 1100, I can get it down to about 850 but it starts sounding like s***. I literally have timing set to -1 from BTDC according to the timing light, so how could it be off still? If it was a tooth off I thought it wouldnt be able able to get the timing light to flash the BB at this point, or am I mistaken?

What do you mean by coolant level should drop in filler neck as air is purged out, you mean spills into the overlfow resevoir?


Dan

Just ran it, the entire time it was running temp gauge didn't go above 3/5 -- is that normal operating temp you were referring to? If so, I think fixing a pinhole coolant leak I had towards the firewall helped with my overheating problem. I ran it for 10 minutes and fluctuated RPM and it didnd't overheat like before. I am still worried about two things:

I put in green antifreeze not red, because i didn't know.

When i turned the key on after shutting the vehicle off for 10 minutes it showed the temp gauge at very high, and engine IR gun temps showed about 40 degrees hotter than when it was running. The head was reading 260 with the IR gun once everything was shut off, but was showing 200ish when the rig was running. I started the rig again and the gauge dropped back to 3/5 again after runing for 10 seconds. Wondering if this is normal.

 

[micruz60]

When you shut down the engine, heat soak occurs and the temperature rises because no coolant is flowing, then when you restart and temperature goes to 3/5- pretty normal.

The idea with burping/purging air is that pockets of air remain in various places in the water jacket of the engine, so running it with the front end elevated will push the air to the filler neck - you could tape a tall funnel into the filler neck to keep coolant from overflowing and spraying everywhere. Ideally, the closed system will purge air via the overflow bottle provided the radiator cap is working properly.

The rpm situation really seems to be distributor related - the BB should be close to the pointer in the flywheel window, not necessarily on the TDC line. The engine will run poorly if the timing is really off, did you go with the idle lean drop method as outlined in the FSM ? Since you are at an altitude above 5,000 feet (?) I would try advancing the timing where the BB is just above the top of the sight window. It is a back-and-forth process, with the vacuum lines plugged with golf tees, I forget which one stays on the vacuum advance at the side of the distributor.

I’m glad you got the pinhole leak discovered and it seems the overheat problem is resolved!

 

[Beehanger]

When you shut down the engine, heat soak occurs and the temperature rises because no coolant is flowing, then when you restart and temperature goes to 3/5- pretty normal.

The idea with burping/purging air is that pockets of air remain in various places in the water jacket of the engine, so running it with the front end elevated will push the air to the filler neck - you could tape a tall funnel into the filler neck to keep coolant from overflowing and spraying everywhere. Ideally, the closed system will purge air via the overflow bottle provided the radiator cap is working properly.

The rpm situation really seems to be distributor related - the BB should be close to the pointer in the flywheel window, not necessarily on the TDC line. The engine will run poorly if the timing is really off, did you go with the idle lean drop method as outlined in the FSM ? Since you are at an altitude above 5,000 feet (?) I would try advancing the timing where the BB is just above the top of the sight window. It is a back-and-forth process, with the vacuum lines plugged with golf tees, I forget which one stays on the vacuum advance at the side of the distributor.

I’m glad you got the pinhole leak discovered and it seems the overheat problem is resolved!

gotcha, the only part of this I don't understand is how my timing could be off a tooth. I have it flashing right at the BB, I thought the whole point a tooth is off is it prevents you from being able to get timing to 0ish..
Dan

 

[micruz60]

The thing to check is with the engine off, remove the distributor cap and get the TDC line on the pointer of the flywheel sight window- you can do this with a bump start cord, or remove all the spark plugs and rotate the crankshaft with large socket and breaker bar. Where does the rotor on the distributor point to? It should be lining up between spark plugs 4 / 3, if it is pointing the opposite way, then you need to rotate the crank a full revolution (compression vs. exhaust stroke). The same process is done for doing valve adjustments. The FSM details this procedure and that will tell if your distributor is off a tooth.

 

[Beehanger]

The thing to check is with the engine off, remove the distributor cap and get the TDC line on the pointer of the flywheel sight window- you can do this with a bump start cord, or remove all the spark plugs and rotate the crankshaft with large socket and breaker bar. Where does the rotor on the distributor point to? It should be lining up between spark plugs 4 / 5, if it is pointing the opposite way, then you need to rotate the crank a full revolution (compression vs. exhaust stroke). The same process is done for doing valve adjustments. The FSM details this procedure and that will tell if your distributor is off a tooth.

Never had good luck finding an online FSM with all the info. Which one are you referring to? the gren or the tan one?

 

[micruz60]

The green one is chassis and body, the tan one is 2F engine. I’m going to send photos of the pages.

 

[micruz60]

These are from the FSM for the ‘77 Cruiser, not as helpful as the later one, I’ll get a couple of those too.

Correcting my mistake- rotor points between plugs 4 and 3.

Photos from 1980 and newer:

 

[micruz60]

@Beehanger

This may be worth downloading:

FSM - 2F ENGINE MANUAL

2F ENGINE MANUAL

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Beehanger]

Is this the correct cooalnt to order? I put in green but want to change it evnetually. Also, are a lot of people running stock radiator still? Mine looks a little questionable and thinking when I change over to red coolant in a few months might as well replace the radiator.

Coolant / Antifreeze - Genuine Toyota Red - Full Strength - 00272-1LLAC

Coolant / Antifreeze - Genuine Toyota Red - Full Strength - 00272-1LLAC

www.yotashop.com

 

[Beehanger]

@Beehanger

This may be worth downloading:

FSM - 2F ENGINE MANUAL

2F ENGINE MANUAL

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks a bunch man!

 

[Beehanger]

I ran my 60 with a sniper across the country in the spring time last year. Went from Florida to Montana completely loaded down. I’m running a 190 T stat.

A few times my truck spiked up to 216 on the warmer days. I never had any issues other than the fuel pump giving out. I monitored that temp gauge with paranoia because I had no way out if I blew my engine up.

I was driving highway speeds with an overload for 12-14 hours a day and made it just fine. I don’t think 220 is too high, but I wouldn’t want it running like that always.

220 coolant or surface engine temp?

 

[cps432]

Is this the correct cooalnt to order? I put in green but want to change it evnetually. Also, are a lot of people running stock radiator still? Mine looks a little questionable and thinking when I change over to red coolant in a few months might as well replace the radiator.

Coolant / Antifreeze - Genuine Toyota Red - Full Strength - 00272-1LLAC

Coolant / Antifreeze - Genuine Toyota Red - Full Strength - 00272-1LLAC

www.yotashop.com

The green stuff is perfectly fine for these engines. You don’t need to change.

 

[cps432]

220 coolant or surface engine temp?

Coolant temp

 

[Beehanger]

Coolant temp

Its got some black specs in it, and very translucent white flakes from what I can see in radiator cap. Wondering if I need to drain the coolant anyway as the truck sat without an engine for 2 years.

Hope everyone has a great labor day weekend,
Dan

 

[micruz60]

I have replaced my original radiator (in 2001?) with a CSF and have run the green coolant ever since. However, I am considering a dump and flush and then use the red stuff.

 

[John McVicker]

Green for me.

Bought my ’75 40 new, have had my ‘86 60 twenty plus years. Both have 2f’s & are shared daily drivers. Have always used green.