Auxillery Tank FJ40 Installation Problem

[shipmag]

I bought a confer tank from a fellow mudder for crinkle my 76 FJ40. I tried to see how it would fit today and it doesnt. With the help of a friend and a ratchet strap i was able to get the tank to within about 4 inches from the bed of the truck. The tank was all the way against the sill part of the frame and the rear differential hump kept it from going all the way up. How much distance is suppose to be between the tank and rear differential. It looks to me the tank needs to have the front of the tank cut off about two inches so that the travel of the axel can move forward and back. The other problem I see is the shocks cant be installed after the auxiliary tank is installed. The question I have should I cut the forward end off the tank off so it will fit between the rear cross member of the frame and the differential. Here are some pics

 

[inkpot]

On all the rigs I have seen with this aux tank, it is very close to the diff. If your rear axle has been moved back to make room for larger tires, then it will hit the tank. John

 

[shipmag]

how much clearance do I need to allow for? Or after it gets all the way up there is enough clearance? What are those loops for attached to the body heat shield for the original exhaust?

 

[bikersmurf]

how much clearance do I need to allow for? Or after it gets all the way up there is enough clearance? What are those loops for attached to the body heat shield for the original exhaust?

2" or so.
No.
Likely heat shield...


It looks like your rear springss have been flipped end for end... Moving the axle Back about 4". Stock, the shocks mounted to the front of the cross bar.

 

[shipmag]

Why would someone move the axel back?
Is it because of the big tires this is the only side picture i have showing the rear wheel and the cut out the po had made. Would it work to cut a couple inches on the front side of the tank? Is it possible to cut the shock bolt of and install it on the front?

 

[bikersmurf]

To stretch wheelbase (moderate ride improvement), more tire space, improved departure angle...

Down side... Larger turning circle, easier to high center, aux tank won't fit.

The tank could be modified... (I wouldn't personally, because I had a friend who took pictures for the police of what happens when gas tanks, which had been vented for months, exploded... There were several fatalities) I'd leave it for a professional.

The shocks can be relocated... So long as bottom is also moved.

I'd reverse the springs, shorten the driveshaft (or get a stock one), return the shock to the front, install the tank, and enjoy 400+ miles between fillups.

 

[shipmag]

Will the large tires still fit? How much does it move the axle?
reinstating this thread. I have a valve and I need help plumbing it up. Should I use this valve that came with the tank I bought from a mudder or should I use a three port valve? Do I need to have a return line to the tank with a stock fuel pump and a weber carb?

 

[shipmag]

Is the tank suppose to be held in place by the skid plate that came with the tank any one know?

 

[Senor Aguas]

Is the tank suppose to be held in place by the skid plate that came with the tank any one know?

Yes, mine is held in place by the skid plate. My tank hit the bed floor when the skid plate was still an inch from the rear crossmember. I made a spacer out of square tubing and used longer bolts. My tank is a pain to install or remove. Mine's made by northwest metal products I think but it's the same design as the confer as far as I know.

 

[bsevans]

The brackets that mount the heat shield need to be removed. The Pollack valve you show is meant for a return line to each tank. Pollack also makes a valve that does not have return ports. I highly recommend the Pollack switching valves because they are only powered to switch tanks and do not require constant power like a solenoid does to keep the valve open for one of the tanks. I've been running a 6 way Pollack valve on my cruiser for over 10 years with no problems. One additional benefit is that the Pollack valve also switches the gauge sending unit in each tank. This makes it much easier to know how much fuel you have in each tank. You need to use a Pollack switch to switch from tank to tank as a regular SP switch will not work. You can see the installation in my ROTW.

 

[shipmag]

Bikersmurf you were right about the springs I reversed them to allow for the tank to fit. Now the sending unit is going to hit the rib in the bed. I am thinking about making a plate to seal the old sending unit hole and redrilling another hole for the sending unit. That's assuming I can find a hole saw that big for the new sending unit hole. Don't want to take it to a radiator shop because I already went to the trouble to put POR 15 on the outside still need to coat the inside of the tank with something. Thinking about using POR product for the inside. Any thoughts

 

[Downey]

Sender???

Look at the top aluminum plate in the photos in Ebay listing #250898205349, it not only covers a large hole, but it is also machined for a Centroid electronic sending unit (does not use a float). What senders are you using (both tanks), and what dash gauge??? I like the Pollack switching valve idea, especially if it also switches sending units (so that you do not need a double pull-double throw switch). Lemme know what you are doing (plumbing and sender wise), then I can give more info!!!

 

[shipmag]

The sending unit on the stock tank is stock the gauge is the stock gauge. The aux tank is a swing arm style float I have no gauge other than the stock and was going to try and match the resistance using resistors if I can make it work.

 

[Downey]

The sending unit on the stock tank is stock the gauge is the stock gauge. The aux tank is a swing arm style float I have no gauge other than the stock and was going to try and match the resistance using resistors if I can make it work.

Your stock sending unit and stock dash gauge work on 120 ohms empty, 17 ohms full, and there is no built-in voltage drop like on the 1972-older models, so your aux. tank needs a matching 120/17 sender working on a full 12 volts. If you use a stock Toyota sender in the rear tank, mount it so that the float ends up on the center line of the tank. If using a Centroid electronic sender, simply mount it on the center line of the tank (that is where the fuel is the steadiest, won't get big sweeps of the fuel gauge needle in that location). As I recall, mounting a Toyota sender 5" in from the right or left side of the tank will put the float on the center line. This will be problematic if your tank has baffles in the way (in which case you should use a Centroid electronic sender---no float used). Centroid part number you would need is #CGS-9.5-12v-120/17-5h. Note; the 9.5 is for Downey's 9 1/2" deep tank, if yours is deeper change this number to the depth of your tank.

 

[shipmag]

Will the electeonic sending unit work with the stock gauge?

 

[Downey]

Sender

Will the electeonic sending unit work with the stock gauge?

Yes, provided you get the 120/17 I suggested. Both senders, and the dash gauge will all work on the 120/17 ohm 12 volt current. If the Pollack electric switching valve does not switch the senders, then you can install a DPDT switch that does (and I have instruction sheets for doing this).

 

[shipmag]

Will the aluminum plate cover the existing sending unit holder? How do i go a out getting the sending unit and what is the cost? Do you have a wiring diagram for the Pollack switch for my application?

 

[shipmag]

Will this Pollack valve the standard in of single pull single throw on off switch?

 

[StaleAle]

I like the Pollack switching valve idea, especially if it also switches sending units (so that you do not need a double pull-double throw switch). Lemme know what you are doing (plumbing and sender wise), then I can give more info!!!

Not sure about the 6 port switching valve, but IIRC the three port Pollack valve requires a DPDT switch because the mechanical switch needs to have two On positions and controls two devices (valve port and sender circuit). I would get the On-On, not the On-Off-On or momentary styles. The valve only has a single terminal so it switches ports whenever it receives current, then shuts itself off when the valve gate is thrown.

 

[Downey]

I don't know where your sending unit hole is now, so can't answer---perhaps give me measurements/location of present sender??. Centroid electronic sender can be obtained from Centroid Products in Florida, (386) 423-3574. Yes, I have wiring instructions for any scenario. Once you end up with tank, sender, switching valve, and dash gauge, lemme know about all, then I can give 1,000 percent exact instructions.