Auxillery Tank FJ40 Installation Problem

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The sending unit cover is 2 3/4" diameter the center of it is 10 inches from the passenger side where the spout is, the center of the sending unit is 6" from the front of the tank and the tank is 10.5 inches deep. Here is a pic of the tank.
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It looks like your sending unit in the aux tank is a stock one... Held down with 5 bolts. Should wrk fine with your stock guage.
 
I'm a little late to the party, but in your first picture it looks like that chain is what's keeping it from going all the way up to the floor..
 
Sender location

The sending unit cover is 2 3/4" diameter the center of it is 10 inches from the passenger side where the spout is, the center of the sending unit is 6" from the front of the tank and the tank is 10.5 inches deep. Here is a pic of the tank.
Look at the two welded-on spacer brackets/squares at the top front of your tank. Your sender should also be at the front of tank, in line with those spacer brackets. I believe the center of your sender should be inboard from the edge of the tank about 5" (just outboard of one of those square spacers) in order to make the float end up on the center line inside the tank. The center line is where the fuel level is the steadiest---the best place to take a reading. Does this make sense????
 
downey I am still interested in using an electrical sending unit. With the measurements I gave you will the aluminum plate offset the gusset enough so I don't have to modify the rib in the floor of the bed.
Not really, the aluminum top plate is not suitable as merely a block off plate. I think I'd cut a sheet metal block off plate (square or round), glue it over existing sender hole with J.B. Weld, and lock down with a half dozen or so sheet metal screws. This should be very adequate considering any gas that sloshes against your block off plate is not under pressure. Then if you get the Centroid electronic sender, just cut a mounting hole near the front wall of the tank, centered between the two top welded-on square spacer blocks. You can use the Centroid gasket as your cutting template.
 
Its going to be a long while before i can install the tank and worry about the wiring. I still have to find someone to paint this beast then i can work toward putting it back together. I will contact you latter after i get the sending unit and get it installed. Then ill ask for the plumbing and wire schematic for the pollack 6 port valve.
 
The plumbing and wiring documents are available here. I don't have a link because I downloaded them a while back and have them in a file. Do a search, it's in there. Good luck, I have the same tank and will install hopefully this winter.
 
Yeah, I downloaded it and saved it in my cruiser file when I found it. Answers most any question you may have. Glad to help.
 
Where is everyone sourcing the dash switch that can be used with the Pollak 6 port switch?
 
I am working on retapping the rear harness and want to add the wires for a sender and for the polack valve. Can any one tell me how many wires i need for the sending unit mentioned above and how many are needed for a the polack valve shown above? I do not have the vehicle her to measure so i am trying to take advantage of the cold and doing thw harness watching the olympics. I also need an idea on how far to
Start the wire from the tank. I need the distance from the passenger tail light to where the aux tank sending unit would be at the frame?
 

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