Auxillary Power / Fuse Blocks

[WarDamnEagle]

I tried searching for this subject but obviously wasn't coming up with the right key words as I didn't find much. I will be installing elockers front and rear in my 85 4Runner (hopefully this summer) and think it would be prudent to install some auxillary fuse blocks like the ones in the photos below (which I unabashedly stole from one of KLF's posts. I'm thinking that 6 to 8 fuse positions would be about right as I would need 2 for the elockers, 3 for lights that I have planned, and I would like to add a couple of extra 12V outlets in the back.

I would like to know what kind of fuse blocks people have used (where did they get them - I've looked at 12 volt guy's website), where have they put them (I'm thinking under the hood) and exactly where have they sourced power. Maybe Jerod, KLF or Mike (Foxfab) could give us a quick lesson on how to do this right.

 

[KLF]

I have one under my hood too, it's for my aux lights, horns, a few other things. I used a Painless Wiring CirKit Boss" kit, the 7-circuit model #70207 in this document:

http://www.painlessperformance.com/assets/08Catalog/page34.pdf

I think I had to order it at AutoZone, they carry Painless stuff but didn't have that one on the shelf.

Sorry, don't have a picture of it installed.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Whaooo don't ask me about that stuff... I'm a electrician... I do have an aux fuse block inside just under the pass side of the center console. For power I ran a new 8 or 10 gauge wire from the bat. Right now it's only running my cig outlet. Got the fues block at Schucks (Checkers, Kragen)...

 

[Bogo]

I've always put the fuse blocks in a reasonable spot close to where they are needed. Stuff for in the cab would be under the dash on either side. I run a heavy gauge wire to the fuse block, and have a fuse on that wire at the battery. Lately I've gone to push to reset or switch type circuit breakers instead of fuses. Also I always run a ground wire back to the battery rather than use the frame/body for ground return.

 

[forestdan7]

Also I always run a ground wire back to the battery rather than use the frame/body for ground return.

I don't know much about this, but I'm interested. What's the advantage of running the ground back to the battery?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I don't know much about this, but I'm interested. What's the advantage of running the ground back to the battery?

Not an expert by any means either but you would probably do this to ensure that you have the best ground possible. Many electrical problems are caused by bad grounds.

Just FYI. I searched "fuse blocks" on the 80 forum and a ton of great info came up if you want to increase your knowledge on the subject.

 

[forestdan7]

Not an expert by any means either but you would probably do this to ensure that you have the best ground possible. Many electrical problems are caused by bad grounds.

Just FYI. I searched "fuse blocks" on the 80 forum and a ton of great info came up if you want to increase your knowledge on the subject.

Thanks, I think I'll do that.

 

[Bogo]

Not an expert by any means either but you would probably do this to ensure that you have the best ground possible. Many electrical problems are caused by bad grounds.

Yep.

The boating industry has alot of good low voltage electrical parts. I got the idea of doing circuit breaker panels from them. I just buy the parts from DigiKey instead. I now do all my electrical panels inside junction or project boxes to protect it. I also use flex conduit or split looms on everything. Also I now use electrical contact grease on all contacts. I got tired of fixing damaged or faulty wiring. Where there is vibration, never solder, always use crimps. I try to do arrange it so it is fails safe. So if a wire comes off, it won't short. I use faston connectors for everything that doesn't have a specific connector for. I get plain ones, then shrink my own heat shrink tube over them after crimping them to the wire. I end up with better protection against shorts that way.

 

[hobiesbestfriend]

I don't know much about this, but I'm interested. What's the advantage of running the ground back to the battery?

Nothing. It's a waste of wire and time really. As long as you ensure that your ground connection is securely attached (scrape away paint etc...) to the body/frame or whatever, and that the body/frame is also solidly connected to the Neg(-) terminal on the Battery, you are fine. Running a wire (made of a metal core) right alongside the perfectly good metal of the body or frame is completely redundant and will do nothing to help if your connections and contacts aren't securely attached in the first place. If anything, it gives you another length of wire to check if something does go wrong in the future. That can be annoying after you spent time tucking the wire into it's route alongside seats or under carpets, dashboards, inner panels, etc... Imagine a Tractor/trailer with tons of lights etc... on it running a ground wire back to the battery from each one? Also, the body and frame is made of a lot of metal and will offer no resistance to current flow no matter how many things you add to the system.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I have one under my hood too, it's for my aux lights, horns, a few other things. I used a Painless Wiring CirKit Boss" kit, the 7-circuit model #70207 in this document:

http://www.painlessperformance.com/assets/08Catalog/page34.pdf

I think I had to order it at AutoZone, they carry Painless stuff but didn't have that one on the shelf.

Sorry, don't have a picture of it installed.

KLF,

I'm assuming that you found one or more switched circuits in the fuse box under the hood or did you have to run the switched circuit power wire from the inside fuse box?

 

[KLF]

KLF,

I'm assuming that you found one or more switched circuits in the fuse box under the hood or did you have to run the switched circuit power wire from the inside fuse box?

I'm embarrassed to say that I can't remember. Hey, they say memory is the 2nd thing to go with age... but I can't remember what the 1st thing is...

I won't be home until Wednesday night, I'll try to take a look and see what I did. I seem to remember that I had to run a wire thru the firewall next to the clutch master for the trigger wire to energize the switched circuits.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

No hurry....don't need the info for a couple of months.

 

[buffethat@comcast.ne]

I just did that project, I got a 6 blade fuse block from West Marine $45 and some 4 gauge wire to go from the battery to under the passenger seat. From there I have a marine dual cig plug in the back of my 4Runner passenger side just above the little storage area. The other 4 fuses are being used by the CB, two sets of lights, GPS and Ham radio (in the near future but it is wired).

I used 10 and 12 gauge to the rear plugs because I have an Engel fridge running of the 10 G and the 12 can be used for air compressors or whatever. I prefer to go a little bigger than needed.

Here is a link to a guy from our club that I basically copied. His is in a 40 but great work.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/217352-second-fuse-panel-picture-write-up.html#post3250681

I have no pics of mine as I am in a rush to get all teh stuff done for Cruise Moab.

Hope this helps, I think Drew's write up is great and easy to follow.