Auxiliary Fan Install

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LandCruiserPhil

LandCruiserPhil

Peter Pan Syndrome
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Location
Graham County, Arizona
Fan kits available at the link below
Land Cruiser Products - LCP

► Remove the 5 screws holding the grill in place and remove
►Remove the lower bolt on the center support bracket
►Remove the rear bolt holding your aftermarket bumper on. If you still have the stock bumper you will most likely need a bolt. The bracket is design with an aftermarket bumper in mind. Without one you should shim up the left side of the bracket with fender washers 3/16" - 1/4" to keep the fan bracket level.
►Install the spacer and long bolt on the drivers side
►Using the two supplied pieces of hose, invert the rubber and fit it to the bottom of the fan bracket where is will sit on the fan bracket. The factory bushing has been discontinued by Toyota and the only way you can new ones is buy a complete fan from Toyota:( The replacement rubber one in the kit has work fine.
► Set the fan in place and install the bolt finger tight to hold the fan in place.
►Install the upper bracket backwards (as seen in the photo below) to mark where the needed hole will be drilled.
►Once drilled flip the upper bracket and install the supplied bolts.
►Tighten the bolts holding the fan snug, over tightening will crush the sleeve.
►Fan is now installed.
►Check to ensure the fan has 3/16" - 5/16" clearance between the fan and radiator. Although no adjustment should be needed bending of bracket to achieve clearance is acceptable.

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*NOTE - We were able to source factory bushing for the fan mounting below

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Continued -


Below is the easiest way to locate and mark the only hole needed for this plug-n-play installation


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Use the blue female crimps to make the electrical connection of the fan. The is not available form Toyota or any other aftermarket company I could find. If you cut the plug off the fan for another type of connection you have voided the fans warranty. The crimp connection is solid and will last.

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I used the follow wiring diagram for hook up. The fan runs at ~7amps and a relay is not needed and will only reduce reliability. I used a Toyota factory switch rated at 21amps that will fit several factory blanks. The switch will fit in near the dimming panel on the dash left.

5.5.2018 New plug n' play wiring to come


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is this something you sell? Or, where to get one. I frequently need to leave my search dogs in my running 80 during the summer and I worry about the AC shutting off/overheating.
 
Nice job. I did this mod several years ago, also using metal brackets rather than the dubious thru-radiator zip ties that come with most fans. It does help in hot summer during slow speed/idle situations. I am triggering the fan via the A/C pressure switch, which adds complexity but reduces manual effort. There is a write-up on this which I can't seem to find.

You hid the part number of the fan switch - please post....or should I wait for it to appear on an entrepreneurial vendor's website soon?:)
 
5.5.2018 New plug n' play wiring install

Pop the blank out at the upper left corner and run the fish to get wiring started.

Set up the fish wire as pictured. Shove the fish wire inside of the cable and tape.


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Once in remove the fish wire and run it from the engine compartment into the under area of the dash and reattach fish wire to the harness. Once attached pull the harness into the engine bay. For a path through the firewall you can just try to squeeze another wire in or I just heat the end of an 1/4"awl and poke a hole in the boot.

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Run the harness to the front of the engine and across the radiator to the fan. ( I run the harness into the fender from the the firewall to the front out of sight). Once the harness is at the fan cut any excess wiring (you can leave any extra harness in the fender if you dont want to cut it. Using the supplied crimps at the fan make the needed connection. The Red wire goes on the Blue side of the connector and the black goes to the black side. Secure the harness out of any harms way and use the supplied zips where needed. Now you are 100% complete under the hood.

Now back at the switch to make the final power connection. Plug the crimps on to the switch as shown on the included paper.

Use your fish wire if needed to get the ground wire (black with a round crimp on the end) down and attach to body metal. See picture below.

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Power time and the only option you have with the kit. Do you want the fan to be able to run when the key is off. (hint most dont) Given that we will used keyed power by removing the WIPER fuse and install the supplied add-a-fuse in it place. make sure you install the WIPER fuse in the Add-a-Fuse. NOTE - The Add-a-fuse needs to point down like in the picture.

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Plug the Red wire from the harness to the Red wire on the Add-a-fuse. YOU are done. Double check ever thing as in your wire routing and connection and that none of the harness is in harms way.

LET ME KNOW IF I MISSED ANYTHING
 
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cartercd said:
Nice job. I did this mod several years ago, also using metal brackets rather than the dubious thru-radiator zip ties that come with most fans. It does help in hot summer during slow speed/idle situations. I am triggering the fan via the A/C pressure switch, which adds complexity but reduces manual effort. There is a write-up on this which I can't seem to find.

You hid the part number of the fan switch - please post....or should I wait for it to appear on an entrepreneurial vendor's website soon?:)
Click to expand...

I followed factory set ups for my design and saw done that used zip ties:hillbilly: and all spaced the fan less than 1/2" from the condenser or radiator without touching. The fan is a 100 series fan if you were wondering;)


Switch - 00550-35976

Why switch the way I did -
► Simplicity
►Reliability less moving parts
►Easy to do and easy for a non electrical guy to understand
►In Arizona there are times wheeling when you want the fan but not the AC
►I will also leave my fan running during the summer when I shut my truck off for short times to reduce heat soak. I also have solar so I dont worry about running down a battery.


AC Pressure switch wiring - ABC's of 80's Cooling Part III - Press Switch
 
My fan is wired thru the AC switch and I can tell you it does make a difference. I would highly recommend getting one.
 
When I did this mod on my old 80 I too ran a dash switch to have more control. I didn't get get too fancy with the brackets through. I used some metal strapping and L channel like the stuff used to hang a garage door motor. Simple and already pre drilled :hillbilly:.
 
Nice. Was thinking of doing something similar recently after spotting an aux fan on an old 4Runner at the picnpull.
 
How do Fiamm Horns Sound? Better than Hella?
 
I ran my aux fan through the low aux lights relay on a Slee harness. It runs anytime the lights are on. I always leave my lights on (they shut off automatically).

I always thought this would be a good one to wire up to a temperature controlled circuit, but meh - works.
 
Aloha Jen said:
Can you pm me the details as well?
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To be honest having spent plenty of time on the Islands this will not do anything for you given if you have a mod'd fan clutch.
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
To be honest having spent plenty of time on the Islands this will not do anything for you given if you have a mod'd fan clutch.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice, I don't have a mod'd fan clutch, so maybe that is a good place to start.
 
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