Auxbeam 8 switch panel - 3d printed sunglasses holder insert

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@SammyNicotine hey are you selling these? I would definitely be interested!
 
@SammyNicotine hey are you selling these? I would definitely be interested!
I am not but @SharpeCat might be. I just did the design for fun and to give back to the community. There’s a link here somewhere with the design files and there’s online places where you can upload them and have it printed and shipped to you. I believe this is basically what @SharpeCat is doing so let’s see if he can reply to this.

It’s worked great for me so far. would be cool for someone else to try it out!
 
I threw 2 in the oven in carbon fiber petg.

Live feed here:



and



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First one done. Will clean it up a little later, this one was just to test support settings. I will make the top more smooth/fix the ironing settings later today.

Also will try to clean up the overhang area in last photo.

How do I pop the sunglass insert thing out to put this in?

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Awesome!!

So the red box is where it clips in. The green box tabs just slide in. So if you put something real thin between the plastic pieces in the red box area it will come loose. Something like guitar pics or something similar work pretty good.

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Will this work with the ARB Linx?
 
Sorry been moving slow. Checked fitment just now and looks good.

Whoever wants one just dm me your address and I'll post one your way: your version will look better than mine/the test print.

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Also, ABS machines will be ready soon if you want one that won't melt even in Arizona. The one shown in photo is Carbon Fiber PETG, which will survive most climates.

For ABS i have Voron Fluorescent Red, and Black. I will assume Black unless otherwise stated.
 
First ABS test prints for auxbeam switch holder today, and @TeCKis300 cup holders this week.

Is $10 plus ship a fair price, so $15 total? For the auxbeam.

Will share photo of ABS version later. You can also see the live print on my stream in a few hours.

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Woohoo!

Separately, what nozzle size are you printing with? I've just recently put a .6mm nozzle which they say should speed up prints by 20-30%. And with modern slicer software, shouldn't even compromise print quality.
 
Woohoo!

Separately, what nozzle size are you printing with? I've just recently put a .6mm nozzle which they say should speed up prints by 20-30%. And with modern slicer software, shouldn't even compromise print quality.
The bondtech CHTs and arachne slicer in prusa I assume? That's funny you bring that up as I am testing a .8 cht and 1.8 cht this week on the phaetus Rapido (amazing hotend by the way/faster than others by a long shot).

I main a .6 or .8 now, and only go down to .4 for very small parts that require the tightest tolerances; like the smaller Voron parts.

The trick to keeping print quality is to keep your layer height, as in do not increase it no matter how big nozzle. For line width, about 110% of nozzle size for a little flat squish.

How you determine what nozzle size is by guaging the size of the prints; like wide angle lens, the bigger the scene the wider the angle.

Your cup holders for example, is definitely a .8 or higher job. You can print it with big nozzle in 8 hours, and if sliced right it will be tough to tell the difference.

Also with big nozzles you can go slower but print faster, since you cover way more area witu each pass. This translate into better quality prints with less ringing, from it moving at a much more slow and steady pace.

.4 nozzles are the 18-55mm stock lens on a new DSLR and can get almost any job done, but rarely is it ever the best lens for the job.

I will be more than happy to send you 3 copies for reference; .4 normal, .8cht nozzle and a 1.8mm cht version, I'll get to work on it this week now that I finally enclosed the trident.
 
Woohoo!

Separately, what nozzle size are you printing with? I've just recently put a .6mm nozzle which they say should speed up prints by 20-30%. And with modern slicer software, shouldn't even compromise print quality.
By the way, if you are referring to the CHT nozzles from bondtech, you can actually get up to 100% increase if u combine with higher temps as well.



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The bondtech CHTs and arachne slicer in prusa I assume? That's funny you bring that up as I am testing a .8 cht and 1.8 cht this week on the phaetus Rapido (amazing hotend by the way/faster than others by a long shot).

I main a .6 or .8 now, and only go down to .4 for very small parts that require the tightest tolerances; like the smaller Voron parts.

The trick to keeping print quality is to keep your layer height, as in do not increase it no matter how big nozzle. For line width, about 110% of nozzle size for a little flat squish.

How you determine what nozzle size is by guaging the size of the prints; like wide angle lens, the bigger the scene the wider the angle.

Your cup holders for example, is definitely a .8 or higher job. You can print it with big nozzle in 8 hours, and if sliced right it will be tough to tell the difference.

Also with big nozzles you can go slower but print faster, since you cover way more area witu each pass. This translate into better quality prints with less ringing, from it moving at a much more slow and steady pace.

.4 nozzles are the 18-55mm stock lens on a new DSLR and can get almost any job done, but rarely is it ever the best lens for the job.

I will be more than happy to send you 3 copies for reference; .4 normal, .8cht nozzle and a 1.8mm cht version, I'll get to work on it this week now that I finally enclosed the trident.

You're all over this. And I gleaned a few nuggets on that. I've only ever gone with the bog std .4 nozzle. Need to branch out here as I'm rarely printing detail parts. Thanks!!
 
Thanks for that. More goodness to dig into.
My pleasure boss, it just basically says temperatures do have an effect on flow rate, and so does nozzle inlet (like the triple helix/twist on the CHT)and even size of the nozzle orifice; bigger and hotter is better for melting things faster. The CHT is special because it cuts up filament and melts from the inside, and that's usually the coldest region and the biggest bottleneck when trying to melt fast.

Also says flow rate (how fast you can deposit and melt plastic) is most accurate measure of your printers true printing speeds.

So if you ever look into upgrading hotend for much faster printing speeds, the Rapido UHF and HF is In league of its own; this is the hotend they tried to ban from the US - and it was banned for a while due to bogus copyright claims that has since been sorted out.
 

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