LX570 lower dash switch panel? (7 Viewers)

[kiedistv]

I'd be happy to design something but I'd either need the desired components in hand or very detailed measurements and then you'd cover mailing test pieces for any tweaks. Parts in hand is definitely easier and faster.

For my LX, just drew up and printed this sunglass holder location auxbeam switch mount (still needs final tweaks and reprint in carbon fiber reinforced material) and some recessed cargo lights.

View attachment 3814149

View attachment 3814150

View attachment 3814151

View attachment 3814152

This looks really good.

Any chance the sunglasses holder is actually still usable for holding the sunnies? I'm one that actually religiously uses that but reckon that spot would be best for my switch panel. Keen to hear

 

[UT08LX570]

This looks really good.

Any chance the sunglasses holder is actually still usable for holding the sunnies? I'm one that actually religiously uses that but reckon that spot would be best for my switch panel. Keen to hear

Unfortunately, the actual sunglass holder function is removed due to the angle in which the switchplate mounts.

 

[TeCKis300]

Maybe just me but the easiest spot to mount a button panel in the early model year LXs is the dead panel in the forward console. Nothing to build and print. Easy wire run. Good ergonomics and visibility - the latter of which is rather important to see status of lockers/lights/accessories. With storage space at a premium, I try not to the lose and factory nooks and cubbies.

 

[gasman4u]

Clean your replace your tip. Your filament might be too wet. I keep all mine in an air tight container with those moisture packets.

Also adjust your bed temp and nozzle temp to whatever the filament suggests.

I had the same problem and a combo of all of these fixed my problem

Thanks for this. Already replaced the tip/heater element. New filament too after new tip. All bed/tip temps where they should be. Still coming out dogsh*t. I’ve changed layer height and speed to. Still trash.

I don’t know how to run hdpe though it. But I’m told that should help. I remain frustrated.

 

[Texasz71]

Maybe just me but the easiest spot to mount a button panel in the early model year LXs is the dead panel in the forward console. Nothing to build and print. Easy wire run. Good ergonomics and visibility - the latter of which is rather important to see status of lockers/lights/accessories. With storage space at a premium, I try not to the lose and factory nooks and cubbies.

View attachment 3918466

No doubt that is a clean at up. I just prefer the look of OEM Toyota/Lexus switches vs an aftermarket set up.

I have a 2013 Chevy Silverado 2500hd with an older Amazon knock off 6 switch panel. It works great, hooking it up was easy but I just don't care for the look.

In all reality, if this panel doesn't become available in the next 3-6 months, this is what I'm going to do.

I'm planning on adding a roof rack. After that it's a winch then electrical. So we will see.

 

[2014 LEX 570 GA]

Maybe just me but the easiest spot to mount a button panel in the early model year LXs is the dead panel in the forward console. Nothing to build and print. Easy wire run. Good ergonomics and visibility - the latter of which is rather important to see status of lockers/lights/accessories. With storage space at a premium, I try not to the lose and factory nooks and cubbies.

View attachment 3918466

I agree if you are investing in switchpros, but if you are just looking to add OEM style switches and buttons (e.g., tow pro) it doesn’t work.

 

[goooooo]

Hey folks, I’ve started working on the Switch Pros panel and have a favor to ask. Could anyone help measure the dimensions of the button panel and share some photos? I’m specifically looking for precise measurements of the back side—width, length, depth, corner radius, etc.

 

[Texasz71]

Hey folks, I’ve started working on the Switch Pros panel and have a favor to ask. Could anyone help measure the dimensions of the button panel and share some photos? I’m specifically looking for precise measurements of the back side—width, length, depth, corner radius, etc.

Is there a quick way to pull this cubby? Or is it pretty involved?

If it just pops right out, I can do it.

Or was it you or someone else who was waiting on another piece to model?

 

[grinchy]

Is there a quick way to pull this cubby? Or is it pretty involved?

If it just pops right out, I can do it.

Or was it you or someone else who was waiting on another piece to model?

It’s not the hardest thing to get out. If you dig around in the fsm it has directions for it in the dash removal section.

My recollection gets more fuzzy everyday, but if I recall it’s the two pieces under the steering column, the piece on the side of the dash by the door, and maybe loosening the piece above it with the mirror controlling it.

All told maybe three or four little bolts?

A bunch of clips.

It’s entirely possible I posted up the relevant fsm section when I pulled mine out in my build thread

On that topic here’s the solution I ended up with.

 

[goooooo]

Sorry folks, I didn’t explain it clearly earlier. I’m not looking for the back of the cubby—I’m actually looking for the dimensions of the Switch Pros button panel, measured from the back side (width, length, depth, corner radius, etc.). Appreciate the help!

 

[Texasz71]

Sorry folks, I didn’t explain it clearly earlier. I’m not looking for the back of the cubby—I’m actually looking for the dimensions of the Switch Pros button panel, measured from the back side (width, length, depth, corner radius, etc.). Appreciate the help!

Not sure if helpful but their website does have measurements

SP9100 Switch Panel Power System

store.switchpros.com

Also, holy crap sticker shock batman!