Aux Fan install with pics, better wiring solution (1 Viewer)

[KliersLC]

ToyoDIY, look here: wyD5D

So,

I read through all the fan install threads, ABC threads and whatnot, and though a few folks have gone this route, most everybody seems to be overthinking this mod. So, here is my take on it with detailed instructions and pics.

I like the idea of the pressure activated fan, but using a combination thermostat control and AC relay control seemed like a better idea for me. I like the idea of the fan running constant when the AC is on, and also like the after run features of the temp controlled fan

First, I picked up a 10 inch pusher fan from the local boneyard and tested it, total cost, $7.00.

I then looked online and at local stores for a controller, but the one I wanted was 50-60 bucks, so I held off and considered home brewing something.

I was down in Lewiston the other day and went to the Autozone (we don't have one here) and they had one in stock for $34.00.

EDIT: The part number for the Controller is: Torqflo 733647, 34.99 from autozone.

This particular unit is adjustable from 160-240 degrees, and has everything built in, including a receptacle for a standard relay.(pics later)

So, to start off, I removed the grill and installed the fan via the fan's existing mounting brackets modified with some bending and banging.

 

[KliersLC]

I used the OEM fan tab, the power steering cooler mount, and a self tapping screw through the bottom crossmember.

 

[KliersLC]

Here is the tag on the Fan. Not sure of the application, but it is Japanese made, so that is good. I replaced one of the OE horns with a 1976 FJ-55 horn, to give it some character. I really like the two tone sound

Installed and buttoned up

 

[KliersLC]

Wiring:


First I removed the battery and box to more easily access the radiator in order to install the temp probe. Then I put the probe in near the inlet side of the radiator to read the highest temps on coolant coming from the engine.

The last pic is the controller

Red is the main fused power, yellow is supposed to be ignition switched power, but I ran it constant to take advantage of after run cooling. Green goes to the positive wire on the AC compressor, one black goes to ground, the other is the temp probe. Orange is the fan lead, and the blue is for a second fan.

 

[KliersLC]

All buttoned up and a shot of the AC tap in

The relay pulls straight out and can be replaced by a standard unit in case of failure.

 

[KliersLC]

I ended up running the AC wire under the engine and then up through the battery compartment.

Some issues....

In the winter time when running the AC, the engine will take longer to warm up due to the fan operation. I plan on pulling the fuse about november.

There is no kill switch for water crossings, but the AC button doubles as a kill switch unless the radiator temp is way up. I'll just have to be carefull with this, I don't cross deep water that much anyway.

I saw some other fans mounted with the basket toward the top, but I mounted mine with it down to protect it from road debris--I don't want the fan propelling a foreign object through my condensor/radiator, just be careful with the fingers.....

I adjusted it so that it will come on shortly after the engine fan engages. I ran it up to temp, and then when the regular fan came on, I turned the adjustment down until the aux fan came on, then turned it up just a smidge.....

Hope this helps somebody,

Dan

Edit: A requisite poser pic....

 

[semlin]

interesting work and nice photos. what temp did you set it to kick in? FSM says the upper normal operating range for a 94 is 203 if that helps you pick a number.

it would also be interesting to rig a dash kill switch so you could directly compare its impact on performance by switching it on and off with the AC on and driving the same route. it would also be interesting to see how it impacts on the alternator.

anyway, keep us posted on temp performance. i just threw away an old civic fan that could have done that. figured i'd never have a use for it.

 

[Tools R Us]

Good job! A couple of observations;

The fan is mounted to the condenser and body, the condenser is soft mounted, so it may not move the same as the body. Make sure that you have enough clearance so that the fan frame doesn't rub on the condenser. A piece of weather strip foam between the fan shroud frame and the condenser will seal up the air gap and improve efficiency.

It looks like the sealing foam between the radiator and core support is shot, replacing it will help with cooling system and A/C performance.

 

[KliersLC]

interesting work and nice photos. what temp did you set it to kick in? FSM says the upper normal operating range for a 94 is 203 if that helps you pick a number.

it would also be interesting to rig a dash kill switch so you could directly compare its impact on performance by switching it on and off with the AC on and driving the same route. it would also be interesting to see how it impacts on the alternator.

Thanks, I didn't bother to get an exact temp, just to have it come on just above the "on" temp for the fan clutch. I don't imagine that it will do a whole lot for engine cooling, but it will help a bit. Mostly this feature is to alleviate the temp spikes right after shutdown. Also, are you talking about AC performance or engine performance?

Good job! A couple of observations;

The fan is mounted to the condenser and body, the condenser is soft mounted, so it may not move the same as the body. Make sure that you have enough clearance so that the fan frame doesn't rub on the condenser. A piece of weather strip foam between the fan shroud frame and the condenser will seal up the air gap and improve efficiency.

It looks like the sealing foam between the radiator and core support is shot, replacing it will help with cooling system and A/C performance.

TRU,
Thanks, I left about a 1/4 inch gap between the fan and the condenser to keep from damaging the cores. I'll look into the weather stripping as well, however, my calibrated fingers didn't detect too much air escaping out the sides, so it may be ok.

I played with it a little more, and with the windows up, you can't even hear the fan come on at idle, it just sounds like the normal AC idle up when you hit the button.

Also, you were talking about the seal on the front top of the radiator right? I didn't notice its condition, but I'll have a look today.


Dan

 

[semlin]

Also, are you talking about AC performance or engine performance?

engine performance. there have been a lot of threads discussing the performance impact of auxillary electric fans over the years, and some recent discussion in the fan clutch thread about running one in conjunction with a modded fan clutch. I know firsthand that lowering the temp of the fan clutch opening point can have a serious impact on performance/mileage even to the point of defeating the additional cooling effect of the fan. I'd like to know what your solution does by way of comparison.

 

[alia176]

Very good mod for slow rock crawling with A/C on. Nice job.

 

[corsair23]

I don't imagine that it will do a whole lot for engine cooling, but it will help a bit. Mostly this feature is to alleviate the temp spikes right after shutdown.

Dan,

I saw this mentioned on the 40 series board and the comment was that this mod would not help much with after shutdown temp spikes. The reason behind this (per the post) was that once you shut the engine down, the coolants stops flowing (unless you have an electric water pump circulating the coolant). So in effect all the aux fan will be cooling down in the coolant in the radiator but not the block.

That got me to thinking...Say you were out running around and what not and the engine got pretty hot. You shut down and go into a store on an errand, say 15 mins. Aux fan continues to run and cools down the coolant in the raditator. Say it cools it down 20 degrees or more from what is in the block. You come out of the store, hop in your rig and fire it up. That cooler coolant is now pushed into a still hot block correct? Any concerns about shock cooling because of the disparate temps?

Just thinking out loud and this is coming from a 1 guy at most so please be kind if my thinking it out in left field

 

[KliersLC]

To point you are correct, but the airflow does not stop at the radiator. Air will still be blowing through the engine compartment as well, cooling everything off. I may be treading on thin ice here, so anybody feel free to correct this, but assuming an open thermostat, if the cooling is enough to make a big difference between block temps and radiator temps, the cooler water will settle to the bottom end of the rig, while the warmer water will circulate via convection to the top end. The engine outlet at the top end is where the temp sensor sits, so this will keep the fan on longer, allowing continued airflow to cool the top end.

Either way, thermal shock is not a factor when changing temps from 180 degrees to 200--I'd be worried if the water in the radiator was 50 degrees...

Also, the 80 series thermostat is located on the inlet side of the block. If the incoming coolant were too cold, it would close the thermostat until everything warmed up.

So, in short, to answer your question, I don't think that it will be an issue.

Dan

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

Great write-up, wondering what controller you got at Autozone. Looking to do the same to up my AC efficiency during idling around.

 

[KliersLC]

engine performance. there have been a lot of threads discussing the performance impact of auxillary electric fans over the years, and some recent discussion in the fan clutch thread about running one in conjunction with a modded fan clutch. I know firsthand that lowering the temp of the fan clutch opening point can have a serious impact on performance/mileage even to the point of defeating the additional cooling effect of the fan. I'd like to know what your solution does by way of comparison.

The impact of the can clutch engaging early is mostly due to the extra load on the engine. It has been very thoroughly demonstrated that an electric fan (or two) will create less load on the engine than a belt driven fan. So, in my case, if I run the AC(fan on) then I might be prolonging the intervals between stock fan activation, thereby increasing performance. On the other hand I al creating more heat with AC operation, and so, as normal performance and efficiency will be down with the AC on.

Also, I set the Fan to kick on right at the same time as the stock fan engages, so without AC operation, the combination should cool the engine faster, leading to less "on" time for the belt driven fan.

I am leaving today for a 4,000 mile trip, so I'll keep tabs on things and see if it translates into better mileage. (pregnant wife =AC on......)


Also, I took a look at that foam strip only to find that it was MIA. Best solution for me on short notice was some sealer foam for windows. I put a bead in there, let it set up and then painted it black. Can't even tell it is there.

Thanks again,
Dan

 

[94landcruiser]

Great writeup!!! Thanks. Where is this foam supposed to be? Mine is also mia.

Gracias.

 

[KliersLC]

Great writeup!!! Thanks. Where is this foam supposed to be? Mine is also mia.

Gracias.

Between the radiator and the metal piece that holds the hood latch.....

 

[CappyKD]

Great writeup!!! Thanks. Where is this foam supposed to be? Mine is also mia.

Gracias.

It comes attached to a Toyota factory radiator. You can't buy it seperate..

 

[Tools R Us]

You want the radiator sealed to the core support, along the top and bottom tanks, also just down from the top tank on each side where the wire harness goes through. Any air leakage will reduce performance.

I get the foam from a home center, hardware store, look for high density, closed cell weather strip tape, the regular stuff soaks up water, gets heavy and falls out. About 3/4"x3/4" works well, sometimes have stuck two strips of 3/4"x 1/2" together. Remove the bolts on one side of the radiator, right side is the easiest, move it slightly back, place the foam, bolt the radiator in place pinching the foam in place.

 

[94landcruiser]

It comes attached to a Toyota factory radiator. You can't buy it seperate..

I just got a new oem radiator no foam